Originally Posted by Will 370Z (Post 4033977)

I’ve been impressed with what I’ve read/seen about higher mileage Zs. I was a bit hesitant when I picked up my 2014 with just under 80K as it was the highest mileage vehicle I’ve ever purchased. It was a good price though and after reading a bit and seeing tuned/modded Zs at over 130K still ripping, I feel like I bought a low mileage one lol

Carfax showed that it had been well maintained with regular scheduled maintenance done. I took it to another Nissan dealership for an oil change and everything checked out okay. I don’t plan on going FI, just FBO, but I feel confident that I can do those mods and still enjoy it for another 40K miles or even more!

Originally Posted by Tractionless (Post 4033670)

If you can wait, it will be a buyers market very soon as prices are already coming down due to interest rates and the economy.

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel (Post 4033672)

I'm in mortgage lending, and IMO, the real estate market has an influence on trends for the other industries that has buyer-financing involved.

Much like the real estate market, the general consumer market has shifted for sure over the past few months due to rates rising paired with inflation, however, global supply chain is still an issue, meaning it would be unlikely to be a buyer's market in the near future. Even if the supply chain issue some how magically got resolved, the Feds are on an aggressive rate-raising projection (7 rate hikes in 2022, with 4 of them being 75 bps vs the traditional 25 bps), so unless you are a cash-buyer, being qualified for financing will most likely be a challenge (higher rates means you get qualified less of a loan amount, if you qualify). Keep in mind, you also have a Fed Chair, Jerome Powell, that does not understand inflation, admittedly: “We now understand better how little we understand about inflation” - 06/2022.

Regarding the economy, there is no telling what will happen, esp. with what the Feds are doing, but, many economists are projecting that a recession is in place for sometime this year. If a recession occurs (which historically has happened each time the Feds have tried to fight inflation), this is when the Feds generally lower rates to stimulate the economy via quantitative easing, but again, you still have the supply issue to deal with. So while rates could be lowered and you could be qualified for more of a loan amount, the prices would theoretically hold steady to what they are now due to supply/demand.

Originally Posted by 370zNRG (Post 4034363)

Sorry been away forgot I made this post. I appreciate the response from everyone so my take away is I should aim for a 370z newer than 2013 and stay away from something more than 130k miles. If I go older than 2013 make sure the galley gaskets get replaced before doing the supercharger. I do plan on having a friend of mine who is a mechanic take a look at the car before I buy it, I don’t trust dealership PPIs. The pricing from the research I’ve seen I’m thinking I’m gonna wait till end of the 2nd quarter to buy a car I am doing cash so financing won’t be an issue. Hoping the used car prices continue to fall to normally pre Covid levels.

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel (Post 4034364)

Regardless of the year, it really depends on the actual vehicle and if it was properly maintained.

And if you are a cash buyer, you have alot more leverage and room for negotiations than a financing buyer would: cash is king.

Originally Posted by filip00 (Post 4033725)

As a 2009 sport owner, I'll give you a few words of my own advice as well.

1. Galley gaskets - it's not big deal to have them changed for newer ones, you'll shell out around $700 for labor, the parts are only $50. After you changed the gaskets, you'll have a peace of mind.

2. In addition to changing or NOT changing gaskets - the Z has a "problem", where it likes to heat up oil if you're pushing it. Because of this, a lot of owners install an oil cooler. Oil cooler means additional pathway for oil, namely just behind the bumper, and you've got all these additional fittings. To make sure all is well - you'll want to install an oil pressure gauge. So - even if you don't do galley gaskets - you can monitor internal oil pressure and know if something's wrong.

3. When I got the car, it being a fully loaded sport package, means I got the beautiful 19" Rays, as well as big akebonos. They work great! I also got that LSD.....that viscous shitty LSD. It never works. It never worked. It's absolute **** and whoever tells me otherwise, either doesn't know what he's talking about or doesn't have the cash to upgrade. The LSD is NOT the part because of which you would want the sport package. It's well worth installing an aftermarket mechanical LSD which will transform the car.

4. Other faults are true - steering wheel lock - can be mitigated just by pulling the fuse out, problem solved forever. Fuel pump hat - well, upgrade the fuel pump.

Other than that - I'd tell you to just go for the lowest mileage clean example you can find and enjoy modifying it as you see fit.

Originally Posted by filip00 (Post 4034370)

I'm not kidding when I say I literally threw it away after installing a mechanical one.
The problem is that it's viscous, which means that it works on the basis of having fluid pressure build-up between the clutch plates. That means that while it's cold and you barely just started driving - it will grab nicely, because the oil in the diff is thick and cold. Once it gets hot (actual operating temperature), it will start to lose grip. For example, you try to do a donut, and the car will randomly keep spinning both wheels for a second or two, then the outside wheel will lose all power and grab on, while the inner wheel will start spinning like crazy.
And don't think it applies only to silly donuts in the parking lot. A completely usual track day, not pushing the car to its limits, but going on a tight hairpin corner, if you have grippy tires, the inner wheel lifts and you do a one wheel burnout. It's just AWFUL.

So to be honest, I'd look for the sport package maybe because of the wheels...maybe brakes....maybe even the S-mode (the synchro-shift for manual gearbox), not sure if the base model gets it....those are great features. But the LSD is ****. Forget about the stock LSD being good, because even if you're not that demanding a driver, if you feel like you need the LSD in the car, then you'll want this visco-**** out of it. Trust me.

Originally Posted by 370zNRG (Post 4034373)

Does changing to a thicker rear end fluid do anything has anyone tried that?

Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 (Post 4034384)

Nope that fluid in the VLSD is just the gear oil. the VLSD is a sealed unit and you can't access/change the fluid.

If they are well maintained older high mileage Zs are a fine car, as would be any car. Only 2 things to watch out for is if it's a manual has the CSC been replaced with a Zspeed CSC elimination kit and on all models has the steering wheel lock fuse been pulled.

Originally Posted by filip00 (Post 4034394)

If the previous owner had replaced the lock mechanism, then there was no need to pull the fuse out. As far as I know, from year 2011 (??) onwards, the Z doesn't come with that wheel lock issue anymore.

Regarding CSC - the cylinder fails and the problem is that to replace it, you need to take out the transmission. If you take the Z1 kit, you can do it without removing the transmission.

Originally Posted by 370zNRG (Post 4034404)

Ya ok not sure but never had a problem wonder if he did fix it. Either way the new car I get I’ll just pull the fuse. Oh ok so the slave cylinder is on the outside of the transmission?

Originally Posted by vtec to vvel (Post 4034406)

It's inside the housing bell of the tranny.

FWIW, alot of members have had issues with the Z1 kit, and will recommend ZSpeed.