Built motor cost?
 

Gonna boost the car next year. Still deciding if I'm going for Single turbo or Twins. Either or I wanted the motor built and not run on stock block. I know the prices of turbo kits just want to have an idea of the additional cost for built motor? Appreciate for the reply

That's a tough question. It can be $5k or $30k depending on your power goals. How far down the rabbit hole do you want to go? You can safely run 500whp on a bone stock motor for many thousands of miles with no issue if you get a good turbo kit, all the supporting mods and a good conservative tune. Above that you'll want the built motor for insurance, but the price depends on whether you want 700whp or 1000whp.

I'm aiming for 700whp w/ a built motor would that be achievable on a Single turbo? I've seen someone with a TT, E85, 650whp on stock block. I don't drive recklessly just really want the extra power for a weekend fun driving or maybe some pulls in the highway. How does the insurance works on built motor? What's the cost?

I know IPP has a built longblock that will handle it for $9k or so, but the motor is a small part of the overall cost to get to that power level. Most people here stop at the 500-600whp level just because you have to drop $15k+ just to get a reliable turbo setup on a stock block. Adding another $10-15k on top to get to 700whp is a big commitment. It's not just the motor. Everything is more expensive when you're trying to hit those kind of power numbers.

You can make whatever power level you want with a single or twins, you just have to pick the right turbo.

You'll also need a reliable daily driver. I drove my TT Z daily for years. Even though it's very possible to have a highly modded car as a daily driver, there will be times that it's down for maintenance and broken parts. With a stock Z, you run to Autozone and knock out the repair. With a turbo Z, you order parts online and wait a week for them to show up.

Insurance has nothing to do with any of this. Some companies may be willing to write you a rider for the aftermarket stuff, but I'd always be worried about telling my insurance company I doubled the power of the car.

Last, how did you get to the 700whp number? Are you familiar with driving high-hp RWD cars? If not, don't just jump straight to the 700 club. A 500whp Z is shockingly fast. A 700whp Z is nuts. You're going to have traction problems. You'll spin all the way through 3rd gear. And if you make a mistake with the throttle, you'll be leaving the road backwards at high speed.

The other thing to keep in mind is that pretty much every dollar you spend on the car is a dollar you will not get back out of the car if you sell it. People usually don't buy other people's projects, and if they do they don't pay top dollar. Many people have boosted their Zs to find out they could have bought a pretty nice used GTR and had change left in their pocket.

Preciate for the feedback, I'm also considering Supercharger because of reliability. Probably gonna stick to 550-600whp. Any tips from SC route?

Supercharging is not more or less reliable than turbocharging (also, not usually too much cheaper once you figure in all the extras to make sure it's reliable). There's really only one supercharger kit option - Stillen. The Stillen kit will blow your motor unless you switch out the intercooler setup to an air-to-air setup and ditch the tune they send you.

For 500ish whp, skip the built motor. You can do that just fine on the stock block and save a fortune.

If I was going to do it again, I'd buy a Boosted Performance single turbo kit. It just wasn't around when I needed it. Or Fast Intentions TT kit, but that's a lot more expensive. It's worth it, but it's not cheap. Avoid AAM and RJM like the plague.

Everything that Chuck said times two and squared. Just but a good kit and top of the line supporting mods. I had the first Fast Intentions kit installed and it ran like a top for five years. The last three years were mostly track miles all on a stock block. I seldom ran it at the max boost level as Chuck said the 500 and 550 map settings were more than enough for the track and street. Running at full boost was really regulated for my own personal pleasure when no one else was around.

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