NOT another OIL thread..well sort of
 

LOL.

Ok, let the bashings begin. JK. I asked my local parts store on the price of 5L MOTUL 8100 ECO-Lite 5W30. With my discount it is $37.27 (Canadian $$.)

That is cheaper than Mobil 1 EP when it goes on sale!!

If anyone is using this, what are you paying LOCALLY. (NOT AMAZON OR Internet) Is this price too good to be true?

Are there any drawback to the 8100 eco-lite?

Looking at Motul website, it is what they list for our car. Actually only 2, 8100 ECO-lite and 8100 X-clean EFE ( I dont like Enhanced Fuel economy oils)

In comparison, It is $16 CDN a quart for Nissan Kool-Aid or REDLine both 5w30.

I'm staying away from REDLINE and Motul 300V as I'm under warranty still. ( I don't want to discuss that issue either ;))

TIA

ZZ

Last time I think I paid around $38 (CDN) for the 5L jug of Motul 8100 X-Clean 5W-30 here in Kimberley, BC. I get it through the local Lordco outlet … and they usually discount it for me. That said, I paid around $65 (CDN) for the same jug in Calgary a couple of years ago through a private distributor.

Cool thanks. Same place except Lower mainland for me. Too funny.

The only difference I see in X-clean and Lite is the API SN certification label. light difference in performance numbers.

What does Motul 300V have to do with the warranty? Just curious.

Like I said, I don't want to discuss this issue. Since you asked.......

It does NOT carry the API ILSAC/ API SN certification as required in the owners manual. I know, I know, "Above existing standards" as posted on Motul site. Try explaining that to Nissan.

This issue has been beaten to death, I don't need to know I'm ok with OLIVE oil. LOL.

Ironically, my Sisters Kia engine seized recently. 2015, low mileage. A well known issue for this engine. Lady driven. Changed her oil as required. Still seized because it's a POS.

First thing they told her: No records of oil change, or type and grade of oil. She is S.O.L. I told her to stick with it. She did, and after 2 months of deliberation, they decided to tear the engine down to still see what happened.

Few weeks later, they decided to replace the engine due known mechanical failure.

I don't need to go through that, as I did with my CSC and Nissan. I have all records and receipts.

Hope that helps, but I'm sure someone will chime in and say "they can't do that" . LOL. (well, they do)

The Motul Eco-Lite does have those certifications. Also, comparing it to Mobil 1 EP, the numbers are very similar. I wanted to find out why the Motul Eco-LITE costs less than Mobil 1 EP. Not that cost has bearing on quality, but just wanted to see if it's too good to be true.

It may be very well just a good oil like M1 EP, and that Mobil is just using marketing strategies to gain a few more bucks for something that we all know is good and off the shelf available around the corner.

Was just curious, thanks for explaining.

No problem. Hope I didn't sound aggravated or sarcastic. I was neither. :tup:

Zz

To be fair, the VQ engine is far superior to that Kia engine with known defects. I'd go with Motul 300V and call it a day. You're worrying about something that has more than a 99% chance of not happening under normal circumstances. Now if you're one of those people that can't let go of that 1%, then by all means put a lesser oil in your Z to CYA. Just my :twocents:

Absolutely. I am fully aware that I am comparing Apples to Oranges when it comes to those engines/cars.

I wouldn't call them lesser oils. They are all good but serve different purposes.

I'm religious about fluids in vehicles and certainly it's not an easy subject to discuss. It's a billion+ dollar industry, and it is certainly full of it's hoaxes and kool-aids.

Dealers unfortunately are also aware of those potions and the not so educated drivers who use them. And unfortunately, we are pooled with those people and guilty until proven innocent.

My 1% fear does not come out of what I may do to my engine, but what the warranty people will use against me to avoid repairs/replacements. That didn't used to be the case 15-20 years ago.

I'm speaking solely from experience. Better safe than sorry.;)

zz

Well, lesser might be a subjective term. But Bob the Oil Guy forum will tell you 300V > 8100 across the board. Unless you want a longer OCI, I guess. I'd rather put a better oil in my car and tell the dealer to take a long hike off a short pier if something catastrophic happens. Of course, this attitude is only based on my situation.

Never suggested it would be something you did. In fact. I excluded the owner factor entirely by saying "normal circumstances". 'Normal' was probably a bad choice ... but that 1% is far higher when you consider idiot car owners that go for 20K mile OCIs. And you're on the opposite spectrum of owners. Just referring to the random defect that might crop up in the engine out of your control.

But I get it. I had a completely different attitude when the Z was my DD than I do now that it's not. In no way am I suggesting your cautiousness is the wrong approach :tup: :driving:

Yes for sure. I never took your comment(s) the wrong way. Made perfect sense.

I also agree with you that 300V is the better oil, but at my normal 3100mile(5000KM) OCI and normal to spirited driving, Id be wasting money.

Then again, that kind of price shouldn't matter for quality insurance. I use the best oil for my airplane engine, but it's certified for that engine. There are cheaper, and inferior Aircraft piston oils.

I may just stick with M1 EP for now. Seems to like it. I was using Nissan Ester oil, but I think it's actually inferior to M1 EP.

And as I said before the 8100 matches the M1 specs and is a little less, so I may give it a try.

only a year or so left on warranty. Then It'll be either Redline or Motul 300v.:tup: