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I put in Aerocatch pins. Utter PITA to install (about as bad as putting the trans back in alone with the Z on a quikjack) but ended up working well. What was unfortunate was the hood started warping due to engine heat so the gap between hood and bumper is noticeably worse than stock. And I put the OEM rubbers back in |
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Got the spacers on…looks way better overall…as much as I want to lower it, it is my daily so that’ll be something to sleep on.
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3d printed in carbon fiber , and wrapped, fully designed my selfhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...eebcd8610a.jpg
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I got back back from work and attempted to install the aerocatch hood pins...I just couldn't do it lol I couldn't get my self to cut through the hood. It fits so well and secure with all three OEM hooks w/o any extra pressure compared to closing the OEM hood. I opened and closed the hood like 20 times double checking everything and it seems solid - no play or wiggle. The other thing I was reading about was applying heat reflective material on the underside of the hood. I know you said you experienced additional warping of the hood. Did you apply this? My only concern is, wouldn't the heat just be reflected back to the engine... |
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Installed an ikon OEM style wing today. Amazing quality for $130 factory paint matched. Install was super easy but I can't say it was comfortable drilling holes into a perfectly good car lol. It looks so good, very happy with the decision. My touring is one step away from being the perfect sport/touring without the silly s-mode :)
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First Autocross of the season today. 28° F this morning, 7 year old RE11s, and a bumpy AF airstrip course. Let’s just say trying to put any power down out of the corners was a fun time…
ADSI club here in RI was a great time though. They use a mile long course (~90 seconds) with some fast sections pushing well into 3rd gear. So laid back compared to SCCA events. Got ~15 runs over the course of 3hrs with plenty of breaks to talk to other people throughout the day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
I installed my brand new OEM black housing headlamps today. The car definitely looks more sporty and aggressive.
You should definitely remove the air filter housings so you can gain access to a plastic clip that is located at the inner corner of each housing. The clip goes around a wiring harness and guides them through this area of the car. If you do not remove this clip or just break it off if you decide to just do that you cannot remove the headlights even with the four bolts removed that bolt it in place and with the harness that controls the housing itself. My neighbor pointed out to me that black housing headlamps even go along with my all black interior that 2014 model year Solid Red 370's only came with. |
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Ever since I lowered my Z on Swift springs, I've been trying to figure out how to adjust the camber and all that good stuff. As usual, this forum educated me on what I needed to do. Originally I was just going to install the rear camber arms because I didn't think the front really needed much, but then I figured I might as well just gets some FUCAs for the front so when I align the car I can just be done with it. I ended up getting some SPC rear camber arms, but after talking to my friend who has SPL everything on his 300ZX and reading a lot more into the whole SPL vs SPC, I've decided to get the whole SPL camber kit. I found a guy who bought it for his G37 but never installed it and is selling his car...so I got a pretty good deal. Still, it was expensive AF compared to the SPC counterparts. I don't track my car and it's no longer my daily, but I just wanted to do it right. I honestly think it's overkill, but everyone talking about the SPCs snapping was enough for me to run the other way lol. Plus, the SPLs are made in the USA.
All that being said...my rear SPC camber arms are for sale on here! |
Wraped my front bumper, now its not just gun matlic , its now gunmetel grey brushed matalichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f006ff5d9b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0121177065.jpg
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