Break in period for a new z
 

Tried looking for a thread on this...
Or perhaps I haven't looked hard enough?:icon14:

Awaiting my factory order 2017 NISMO Z (MT)


just curious on your opinion for a proper break-in period?

Was thinking 3 - 5K miles...
before any performance mods. (i.e. exhaust & intake)


feedback from NEW Z owners much appreciated!

Cheers!:tup:

The manual states that you shouldn't go over 4k RPM before 1,200 miles. I hit 7.5k RPM as soon as my Z left the dealership lot.

Every new car I've ever owned I took it easy on for the first 1000 miles. But if the manual says keep it under 4000 rpm for first 1200 miles who am I to argue. Have fun with the Z, that first 1200 miles might be the longest.

4k is just the tip of where the fun begins :yum:

1200 miles. Tolerances are pretty good on modern machines, but there is still some good science behind the break-in procedures. If you want to feel good about your break-in, run the RPMs up and down constantly - i.e. avoid cruise control scenarios where you are at the same RPMs for extended periods of time. Avoid WOT, but don't be afraid to occasionally run the throttle up pretty high as you hit 4K RPMs or even a bit more. Change oil immediately after break-in.

Or just beat the $hit out of it right off the lot :driving:

Something kinda cool, Acura actually does this for the consumer on the new NSX so when they drive it off the lot they can go whip it without concern. The engines are already broke in at the factory.

A lot of modern ECUs seem to pull back the power for the first thousand or so miles too. Pentastars are notorious for this, and at like 1200 miles you suddenly get a whole new car. :)

I've read a few times now that the 370Z seems to open up right around a thousand miles - might be something similar?

As for me, I baby the engine for 3-400 miles and then gradually push it harder and harder. I've redlined the Z a few times pulling some 0-60 passes now, but this is interspersed with casual around-town stop and go. I've done the same thing for about a dozen new cars now, with zero issues.

And yes, plan to have an oil change at 12-1500 miles just so you can check for metal content.

IMNSHO, JARblue has the right idea. You can either drive "normally" for about 1000-1500 miles or flog the crap out of it. The former will definitely be better on the engine but the latter probably won't do all that much damage with modern materials and construction.

I have just the first 150 kilometers on mine.
I will stick to the manual and keep it under 4k and won't go WOT for up to 1000 kilometers. I think that is the most important thing to do.
After that can push it form time to time.
Short distance rides or longer periods of cruising at a steady RPM are almost impossible to avoid.

And I let my AT do the job for me at the moment. Should not engine brake to hard.

I'm 240 miles into ownership of my new MY17 Nismo. I have to agree that this is the most boring period of time ever! I read that the GTRs are recommended to run in for 1,400 miles. So it its good enough for a GTR its good enough for me!
I'm running at 4k RPM max and its a really struggle as the car just wants to get up and go around those revs!

I didn't consider an oil change though. I got a deal of a 3 year service package from Nissan, but don't think it would include this oil change after the run in. So will go see how much that would be.
Would you recommend just an oil and filter change after the 1,500 miles?

The first oil change gets rid of any break in material from the engine and manufacturing process. Do the oil and filter change after the initial break in (even if you have to pay for it) and then at the manufacturer's recommendation thereafter...

:iagree:

If the dealer won't cover it as part of the service contract, then I would at least try to get them to by bringing up the point about wear during the break-in period. If not, tell them you'll bring your own oil and filter (5 qts of Mobil 1 is ~$25 at Walmart). Most dealers charge $10-15 for the labor on an oil change.

For my wife's Honda, I've started just paying the dealer for the cost of the filter and labor (usually runs me $18 + the $25 for Mobil 1 oil). Although for the Z I like to use a Purolator PureOne filter, which usually requires an additional trip to the auto parts store. I stock up on oil and filters whenever I find a good price.

Went through this quick but I think you guys missed something... Avoid keeping the engine at the same RPM for any period of time. If your on highway, vary your speed and switch to 5th periodically. This is for the cams.

Post #5 :tiphat: ;)

LOL, like someone said, the car is already broke in...drive it like you stole it and then change the oil and filter!!!:stirthepot:

I'm already at 1200 KM's on my 2017 in two weeks (LOL). I am trying very hard to keep it under 4K for the first 2000 km (1200 miles) but I have been disciplined.

I Plan to do oil and filter change at 2000km (Nissan oil and Filter) and cut open filter and check for proper amount of metal. Then go another 3k and change to Redline 5W30 and K&N or WIX XP filter.

Another good break-in suggestion people have forgot to mention, is to TRY and prevent stop and go traffic and long idling.

Most important is vary the speed on highway. I've ran all the way to 6th.

I've been driving for over 45 years, and I've always broke-in the car the way that I would ultimately drive it. However, I would never red line it or try and lug the engine. In all these years, I've never experienced any excessive oil burning, or any other internal engine component failures. I think the key is to change RPM levels on occasion. All of this helps to seat the piston rings and that's what the break-in actually accomplishes.

Is it really THAT important? What does it improve?

Mr. Engineering Explained also doesn't clearly mention any technical details on this point.

My Grandpa would always do a hard break in along with giving it hell on the test drive :icon17: so I ultimately drove my Z like I do now without following a break in - not that I was redlining it all the time though. The engine has already been run in at some point along the line.

That's just about verbatim what the dealer told me when I got mine last spring. Heck I had it up around 7k rpms on my test drive with all of 62km on the odometer lol

I did change the oil over to synthetic by 1000km and put in a magnetic drain plug to catch any debris from break in.

Mine was broke it by the time I got home from the dealership!:ughdance:

Modern cars are built to much better tolerances than those of yesteryear and don't need the same treatment. If we were talking about a rebuilt engine...that's a different story.

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My background is Aviation. Air cooled, Piston, N/A aircraft engines are completely different beasts. They are nothing more than large lawnmower engines. Relatively speaking.

Having said that, they are still engines with pistons, rings, valves, camshafts and bearings

To put it simply without too much technical explanation:

avoid travelling at a single speed or RPM for prolonged periods since varying engine speeds are vital to proper break-in as they expose internal parts to a wider range of heat, pressures and stress. (notably the piston rings.)

In todays cars, I'd narrow down to the two more important important terms: Pressure and stress. Heat should not be an issue in a proper Water cooled system. (unless of course you decide to break-in really hot weather.

That brings me to the next argument. The 4000 RPM for first 1200 miles is Determined by Nissan to cover a wide range of users and climates and scenarios

It assures proper break-in, without overheating or excess wearing if conditions become extreme.

Thank you all for your input!

This is the only point that was made to me by a lot of folks that know more than me!

Just be sure oil temp is up to 180* or close to it before twisting it's tail!
They normally cruise around 200*F,,,which is normal!

I've broken in many motorcycles and believe in a hard break in. Varying Rpms whenever possible

Just dont keep it at a high rpm for long periods. (cruise at 5k+rpm on the highway)

I don't believe break in periods are that critical anymore. Manufacturers still put it in owner manuals more as a best practice. Personally, I just drive the car normally. I don't flog it nor do I baby it. I've never had any issues with any new car I've owned.

You would think that if break-in periods were critical for engine reliability and longevity, car manufacturers would program lower rev-limits into the ECU for the first couple thousand miles or so.
I wouldn't worry about it with modern cars. Of course, common sense has to prevail. If someone takes a car from the showroom floor straight to the track, that's pushing it.

I agree. I still think you should take it easy for a few hundred miles tho. Just to be safe.

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Don't forget, you are also breaking and seating the gears in the transmission (if MT) and the ring gear and pinion and spider gears in the rear end. It's probably best to vary the speed, temperature and torque on those items. But, hey, this is America. It's your car. Do what you want.

The subject of engine break-in is argued as much as the subject of which oil to use.

Honestly, everyone is right. As long as you use an oil, you won't hurt anything. As long as you drive the damn car, get it up to proper operating temperatures, you are doing it good.

What happens at the factory is engine RUN-IN a term which is often forgotten.

The belief that the engine is BROKEN-IN at the factory is a misleading one.

During RUN-IN, the manufacturer is only assuring the engine doesn't leak, meets their specs, and most importantly setting it up for the ultimate BREAK-IN by the user.

During the Run-in, there is inherent metal to metal and wear occurring. This is obvious. Some consider this Broken in. However, no matter what scenarios they develop in the test cell to replicate real world operations, they can never replicate actual real world scenarios.

In airplanes, we are told to take up to above 75% of rated engine horsepower for first 50 hours. (feels like an eternity) It is the scariest 50 hours for the pilot. :rofl2:

If we apply that convention to modern, liquid cooled automotive engines, we can probably accomplish the same thing.

So for a 350HP Nismo, 75% works out to 263HP. For argument sake, if we develop 350@7500rpm, 263HP would be around 5600RPM. Not too far off 4000. :driving:

Again, this brings back why Nissan chose 4000. (which work out to about 55%HP) Nice even number and you wont be babying nor destroying in extreme conditions.

Just a scenario, I'm not suggesting this is how it's done or actual math etc. Just my aviation scenario theorized for automotive use.

There is one more thing about piton ring wear, that for the life of me, I cannot find the drawings and explanations/details for.

In short, when you hold an engine at a constant RPM, the piston/rings tend to "Harmonize" in 1 spot on the cylinder walls. Causing wear on only this portion of cylinder wall.

By varying RPM, the pressure changes, and the piston/ring will "harmonize" on a different portion of cylinder wall.

I don't know if this makes sense and I wish I could find the illustrations to prove it.

Also, it may have only applied to cylinders which are 'choked'. Can't remember.

In reading the BMW forums, it appears that they do it on their M cars. Till first service at 1,200 miles. Not sure if it's all their cars.

Agreed....that is what I have been told!

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