so lets say for socal (it doesn't get pass 95 nor below 55) would it be best just to use 5w30?

That's what I would recomend. If you are really interested in learning about this stuff spend four to eight hours reading threads on Welcome - there is a lot of good stuff on there and there are a few threads on here about oil.

one day....one day I will devote 8 hours on that web page to read about oils. as of now...I rather lurk around here :D

Lol - good point. I usually spend hours reading stuff like that trying to educate myself on this stuff while the wife watches TV ;)

I want whatever it takes to swap out the rear diff and manual transmission with redline.

Yes the factory calls for 5W30, but for street I would consider 0W30 unless you live in Phoenix AZ. For track use the 0W40 has better viscosity at 220F+ and still has good properties for street use as does the 5W50.

I'll work out pricing and post Monday

Still waiting on that post. :tiphat:

Im in on group buy for MT, Diff and motor oil.

I've noticed the past couple days (~25deg this morning) that getting into 1st gear has been fairly difficult. Come to a complete stop, then let of the brake so I roll just a smidge, and it goes in. Down shifting into 1st from 2nd coming to a fresh green light behind someone is hard as well, even at ~5mph.

From what I can tell, this fluid change will help shifting overall, but do you think it will help this specific problem?

A 2 - 1 downshift while moving will always be difficult to engage. It's something I've experienced with every car I've owned. Fortunately, there isn't a need to be rolling and shift into first for driving purposes...2nd gear has plenty of pull even from 5 or 10 mph. The transmission oil change may help, but super cold temperatures will make shifts sticky until things warm up regardless of the fluid you are using.

Just put Nippon Oil Co's "Eneos" full synthetic fluid in my gearbox. It was a toss up with MT90, but my local rice shop guys suggested I try it. They use it and have been getting good reviews from their customers. Pulled out of the driveway, made the first 1-2 shift and immediately noticed a difference. Drove straight to their shop and bought a few more quarts for the Dif. YMMV

Japanese fluids developed for Japanese cars can't be too awfully wrong..

Nippon Oil

http://www.eneos.us/images/products/bot-MT.jpg

Hmm, I wouldn't put GL-5 in the transmission. GL-4 is recommended. In the diff it would be fine.

Apparently it''s not that simple.....
Seems it has a lot to do with the additive package. More info from Bobstheoilguy:

[QUOTE]I cannot vouch for any lube except ours. In the past, manufactures speced GL4 because of the lower levels of the Sulfur-Phosphorous (S-P) additive package. The lower levels guaranteed less interaction (such as staining and corrosive pitting) with copper alloys such as brass and bronze.

However, and since about 2000, most additive packages now contain "inactive" sulfur which is mediated by metal deactivators and which do not allow the sulfur to interact with the copper-alloy metals, but still allows the S-P additive to protect the gear teeth and bearings.

The problem with most OTS GL5 lubes in MT's is their viscoity and friction modifiers. While the OTS GL5 gear lubes are great for differentials, they do not possess the correct viscosity or friction modification for smooth cold weather shifting.

GL-4; Specified for hypoid gear service under severe service but without shock loading. This classification is essentially obsolete but is still specified by some manual transmission/transaxle manufacturers. Implies an EP/AW additive package that contains 30% to 50% less S-P additives than the GL-5 service classification. Some Marine Gear Lubes fall into this classification, especially the full Synthetic Marine Gear lubes and specialty blenders MT lubes that use high levels of esters.

GL-5; Specified for hypoid gear service but with shock loads and severe service operation. Usually meets Mil-L-2105D and in most cases, is the multipurpose automotive gear oil. Most 75W90 to 75W140 grades meet the GL-5 classification. This grade has a high level of Extreme-Pressure additives that could be mildly corrosive to nonferrous parts, such as brass, bronze and aluminum parts. Most of the modern GL-5 lubes contain metal deactivators that prevents attacks by the extreme-pressure additives. In addition to EP additives, these lubes contain rust inhibitors, defoamants, friction modifiers, thickeners, and Viscosity Index Improvers.[/UNQUOTE]

obviously some usage tests and experimentaion are called for. I'll be the guinea pig.

[QUOTE=Modshack;314874]Apparently it''s not that simple.....
Seems it has a lot to do with the additive package. More info from Bobstheoilguy:

Taking one for the Team :tup:. In for updates