A Few Thoughts On Break-In at 168 miles
 

• My odo is at 168 miles. I checked the oil level and it's fine, and I already notice it is getting darker, lmao. Of course I just know that it is all metal shavings destroying my cylinders, heh heh. I plan to do an oil change at 500 miles with Nissan Ester.
• I've already bumped past 4000 rpms twice, but only hit 5k for a fraction of a second both times. It is not easy to keep the revs down on this engine, all it wants to do is seek redline :icon17:
• There are no evil noises coming from this vehicle. No hums, beeps, high-pitched whines, burps, farts, or grinding noises. Let's hope it remains that way.

I love this car! :driving:

Give it time for the whine! Glad you are enjoying the car. :)

This explains why it will never be an issue for me at my age, heh heh:

>>>The range of hearing for a healthy young person is 20 to 20,000 hertz. The hearing range of humans gets worse with age. People lose the ability to hear sounds of high frequency as they get older. The highest frequency that a normal middle-aged adult can hear is only 12-14 kilohertz. Also, the hearing range for men worsens more quickly than the hearing range for women. This means that women will have the ability to hear notes of higher pitch than men of the same age do. <<<

It also explains why quite often I don't hear my wife yacking :tup:

I gave up on the break-in guidelines around 400 miles. I haven't gone even close to redlining it yet, but keeping it under 4k rpm's seemed tedious and overkill. I don't launch, redline, or even "race shift" up to 80 mph. I do a couple 20-60 sprints in 2nd/3rd, and 40-80 sprints in 3rd/4th, but that's about it.

I'm probably changing my oil next week. After my dealer's service department proved to be stupid, I'm worried about taking it there for my 1200 mile oil change, but I want to use Nissan Ester until I switch to synthetic at 3500.

So...what did they do (or not do) to earn the stupid designation? :p

From Motorcyclist, interesting read:

We asked four top motorcycle engine builders what they do to ensure peak power output and optimum engine life. Here is a capsulation of their responses. "If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.

An engine's initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant (air, oil, and/or water) up to operating temperature only, with little or no load, then shut down and allowed to cool to ambient temperature. This is important. After each run the engine needs to completely cool down to ambient temperature. In Texas, especially in the summer, that's still pretty hot. After a cool down period, start it up again and take the motorcycle for it's fist ride (you hope).

This time give the engine light loads at relatively low rpm and stay out of top gear. Lugging the engine, i.e., low RPM with a lot of throttle (manifold pressure), is more detrimental than high rpm. Another key is too constantly vary engine load during the entire break-in period. A constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This second run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.

The third run should see slightly higher rpm with light to medium power loading using short bursts of acceleration to help seat the rings. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. A forth run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and again avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Most of the metal particles will break away within the first 50 -75 miles. To ensure the rings seat well, use the same high quality oil and don't be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.

A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles re-torqueing the head is suggested. Switch to synthetic oil but not before 500-1500 miles. Most of the engine experts warned of the danger of breaking in the engine too easily and ending up with an engine that will always run slow whether it is from tight tolerances, inadequate ring seal or carbon buildup. Engine load is more detrimental than rpm because of the head created internally, so avoid lugging the engine but rev it freely especially in the lower gears. Basically, be sure not to get it too hot but be sure to seat the rings properly.

So that's it, sure a lot different than keeping under 4000 rpm for 500 miles then under 5000 rpm for 1000 miles. Maybe bike manufacturers are being super cautious at the expense of your motor's performance? I think that they take the cautious route that works over time (1000 miles, or about 20 hours of break in) versus a faster route that can be more easily screwed up."

They told me having the inside of my windshield and windows covered in water after it sitting overnight outside was normal, similar to the response I got from a few people on here!

The auto repair shop I go to immediately knew what the problem was (or at least what was causing the condensation) and assured it me it was FAR from normal.

So I may be buying the oil/filter from Nissan and driving over to my auto shop next week!

What was the problem that caused your windshield to be covered in condensation and what was done to fix it?

...and only women whine about the ECU noise... :stirthepot:

My audio installers forgot to replace a grommet in the firewall. Rain water ran down the windshield and into that whole. The water ran down my floor pan and "settled" into the area behind my seat. It soaked the carpet before draining out. That wet carpet had retained enough moisture to cause the condensation when parked outside overnight.

My repair shop found the problem, and I took it back to the audio installers to fix it. They filled the hole back up (either with a grommet or with some sort of silicone, not sure).

It happened again 2 days ago, but it may have been left over moisture underneath my floor mat.

Sorry for the derail!

I tried to follow guide lines for about a week. I drive it like I stole it and want to keep it. Meaning I dont kill it but Im not affraid to drive it. Check oil regularly and it hasnt burned a drop. Gonna change the oil for the first time at 2500 miles. The funny part is that the oil still looks very clean (not burnt). Upon buying the car I did put a filter magnet on, which I dont know if that helps but I know it sure cant hurt. Good luck with your car, Nissans can take a beating. I would not hesitate to enjoy the car and its capabilites.

matt- you can use duct tape/e-tape too. it doesn't have to be some special rubber seal or silcone.
this is why i hate letting people install stuff on my car. i just DIY everything.

my engine wasn't burning oil until i started hitting redline after 1k. i used about half a quart so far and planning to use the rest of the bottle before the first oil change. :)

Dude that sounds dirty. ;)

Now at 1200 miles, never had her past about 5k....until the other day....heh heh...

For the first 1200, I would sometimes give it a goose from 3000-4000 rpm's, but that was it, aside from a couple of times when I enthusiastically went up around 5000 by mistake :icon17:

Went for a ride north of here the other day (Route 22 north of Brewster, NY), looking for a place to finally open her up...At 1184, I brought her to 5000rpm a few times..I feel like I've been riding a tiger for the last month...a cool calm collected tiger that doesn't mind a leash...but you feel the POWAH underneath the calm....

At 1190 I brought her up to 5500 for the first time, just a quick burst. Amazing difference in noise level and thrash thru the stick (all good :tup:)

The big cat is ready to run, Bubba. Time to let out the reins....:eekdance:

I wound my way through Goldens Bridge on 22 South...at 1198 miles I found The Place, a stretch of about a mil of straight road with no side streets or driveways...and I brought it to WOT for the first time...whoa!

The beast was unleashed...the big cat is out of the woods....I can't believe the power that builds and just keeps building right up to redline.

I also notice that when you are up high in the revs that if you are not mashing the gas, it is actually quite civilized. It's only at WOT that all hell breaks loose.

What an engine. What a car. Happy happy. :driving: The End.

Glad you are enjoying it steve. I felt the same way until the high pitched whine showed up after about 8500 miles.