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Go boost or go home? ...long *** wait.
So I could deff in fairly short time save up and get the G3 intake and some type of better Exhaust... But is it really worth it?
But is what I really want is Boost... All of the boost. But that would take a million years of me saving up $ not to mention if I don't attempt to install it my self + cost of tuning ect... Should I get what performance I can now? or does that seem wasteful if i'm going to someday replace it anyways? Go boost or go home? Buy what performance mods I can now? I don;t know what I want to do... : / Should I just say F it? Just looking for general opinions and discussions. Rock on as always guys. |
Go home bud...You're not reddy.
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Save for boost. If you have to mod something, play with the suspension. It's a waste to buy bolt ons that you'll end up selling.
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Boost !!!!
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And it's Tein!:tiphat:
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If you can save up over $13k to boost your car along with some supporting mods, go for it. Just be prepared if something breaks if you're having too much fun. I've been boosted for over 4 years, and so far the Z is doing well. It's just the maintenance work that's adding up, but other than that it's fine.
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really depends if you want to spend the dough....if not, time to look for a different car that comes with what you are looking for.
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You have several options you can upgrade and have fun with but still keep once you go to the dark side! You can upgrade some items now and save money when you pull the trigger! Exhaust, Oil Cooler (34row), Suspension, Wheels (light weight), rear diff bushings & Nismo cover.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Do nitrous as long as you know what you're doing like me. 100hp at the push of a button and it's about a 2000-2500 project
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Took my 4 years to save for my build while I paid off my car. If you have patience you can do it too.
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20k plus daily driver or go home.
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I am either boosting in early 2016 or waiting until 2017. It looks like I won't quite have enough funds to do it in 2016. Will be on a tight budget, more than likely I will wait. All I have is a FI exhaust and 34row oil cooler. Clutch, upgraded CSC, and lightweight flywheel are safe to spend on. Suspension parts are in the garage. Front sway and SPL parts still need to be bought. 13K is not enough. You will need 20K to be in the safe zone. Another 10K for a built motor. It sucks to be so close and be about 4K short.
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Yes, it is not cheap. But I learned long ago, the hard way of coarse, to just wait. |
By the way, I have had the money a couple of times already. Something has come up and dwindled the funds down. It may happen again. I hope not.
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Needed mod when going FI and can be done ahead of time to save some expense when you do the turbo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
so question is really about what l's the true cost for FI a Z.
Let's tally up: FI parts Support mods Shop time Reserve for broken parts A reliable daily car How much is that? $20k? $25k? FI is like a major surgery. There's no guaranteed results. Something can go wrong either at the surgery table or afterward. You gotta have strong $ reserve to deal with potential consequences. Make sure you can take a hit if/when it happens. |
$15+, enough in the bank for a new motor and a second vehicle is a pretty good rule of thumb.
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