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HF Cat vs Test pipes on my new Z
Hi all. I'm brand new here. Just picked myself up a Red 2009 touring with sport package with 77,000 KM for around $20,500, which is pretty low here in Canada. I had just purchased myself a 2009 GTi six months before, and I was loving the little turbo hatch, but I just needed to get a RWD, 2 seater, utterly impractical car while my life still allowed me to do so. It was either before I had kids, or once they were in college, so I chose the former! I may have to sell it in a year once I get my presale condo build, so any minor mods I do will have to have "value" in mind.
I do have a question, though, before this thread gets moved... I've been reading around here and it seems like the most important mod for performance from stock is to put in a HF cat or test pipes. Since we don't have emission restrictions here anymore, and considering the price difference, I think I'll opt for the test pipes. That way I can keep the cat and pop it back in if I want. Is there any other advantage to the HF cat instead? Can anyone recommend one brand of test pipes over another, or does it even matter? Thanks |
Go with the Fast Intensions resonated test pipes. They sound amazing and they will not trip any sensors like many other do. Another good brand is the ARK.
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Go with a quality HFC. Test pipes are toxic and disgusting.
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AE AE ae Ae aE
how the hell did you glue A and E together? :mad: |
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なるほど!
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Ĉ |
[QUOTE=Ĉon;3215400]Please explain?
Explain? Test pipes eliminate the catalytic convertor, so there is no emission control. Test pipes are intended purely for track purposes. I realize modding is fun and we're all looking for more HP, but simply Google LA smog photos from the 50s to appreciate why catalytic convertors are a good thing. |
Ok, sure.
So if I have to choose between a high flow cat or a new intake, the cat would be the better one to replace? |
HFC will definitely yield way more more power than the intake. Honestly, after market intake doesnt have significant gains. Getting a HFC means better and more aggressive sound too.
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[QUOTE=wanker;3215559]
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So, even if you aren't too concerned with the world heath in general, you might care if your ride stinks? Anyway, I have the Berk HFCs and Stillen Gen3 intake and it seems to give good flow and a nice sound bump up front as well as in back. The intake growls and the cats hiss a bit...the car just sounds a little pissed off...in a good way. Have fun with your new Z! |
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go TPs OP. more POWAHHHHHHHH!!! also stick to fast intentions products regardless of HFC or TP choice. best product on the market and their customer service is most certainly best in the industry :tiphat: |
TP's give more power than HFC. however, i have tp's and now my bumper is starting to turn a little yellow.
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Most cost effective mods:
K&N Drop in air filters. Axle back exhaust or washer mod or used Nismo H-pipe type exhaust. Test pipes. Under drive pulley (personally I won't do this one) And look in the private classified sections of good deals. |
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and the underdrive pulley is an absolute pain to install to gain minimal power. long tube intakes, tp, cat back. should get you to 315~whp with a tune. obviously number depending on location, tuner, etc... |
Just FYI I'm married with one kid, so you can make it work. remember tthat your eexhaust will be really stinky with test pipes, coming to a stop with Windows down is not fun
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don't mind it. because racecar. :tiphat: |
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in my opinion the biggest waste of money and time are headers... cost a pretty penny and takes forever to install for a few whp. not worth it in my opinion, but that's just me.
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in that case OP keep it stock. if you wont own it in a year then any money spent is a waste. car doesn't typically sell for more just because of aftermarket bits unless they are top of the line and extensive. even then you get pennies on the dollar in the return. |
no one wants your 'project' car
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does it kraut at the stops? :bowrofl: |
For max power and minimal rasp you will want resonated test pipes, ideally with long, L or J shaped bung extenders for the secondary O2's.
You may still require a tune to turn off the associated CEL if the ECU sees the primary and secondary O2's matching voltage change rates too closely. Really, any set will do. If you don't care about rasp or rattle (it is bad, tho'), a set of unresonated TP's from ebay will serve just fine. That said, if you get TP's, I would consider investing in a tune anyway to improve throttle response, clean up AFR's, and bump up ignition advance. Or, if you have the coin and either the tools or a shop willing to do it, skip the TP's and go for Long tube headers (and a tune). I recommend PPE. |
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HFCs are not to bad, but the TP smell doesn't bother me at all. I finally took off my BERK HFCs because the Connection flanges warped from the heat, (which is a fairly common problem I hear). It caused the CELs to come on a lot and smelled way worse than TPs because the exhaust was leaking right under my seat :icon14: ( I do track some, so your results may vary) TPs cause less "back pressure" in the exhaust. It lowers your torque a bit, and enhances HP a lot, but it also takes pressure off the exhaust corridor releasing heat better and solving annoying leaks. (at least it did for me) IMHO, its a very good mod if you push your car like I do. HFCs eventually were very problematic for me and talk about smell! |
I have some TP's for sale, check my sig
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