What about the rear gears ??? sounds interesting.

Looked into that a level 10 cost 7k and I think that was with out the torque converter.

He's telling you to go steeper with the driveshaft/wheel rotation ratio. It's like choosing a lower gear on a bicycle... you can accelerate faster at the expense of some top end speed.

Longer explanation: When you divide the number of teeth in your ring gear (the one that turns your rear wheels) by the number of teeth in your pinion gear (the one attached to the driveshaft that comes directly from the transmission) you get a number like 2.73, 3.69, 3.73, 4.10, etc... What that means is that the driveshaft makes 2.73, 3.69, 3.73, or 4.10 full rotations per full rotation of your rear wheels. The higher the number, the more power per rotation you're going to get. But the tradeoff is that your gears will red-line a lot faster (you'll have to shift sooner) and your top speed will take a hit (if you care about 150+ mph). You'll also be running at higher RPM per any given speed in a given gear, so fuel economy will suffer too. With a 6-speed you'll probably just end up running 1 gear higher than you were previously though.

Not including the mods she already has, plus I didn't include the whiteline sway bar and toe kit. oil and tranny coolers, Not looking to build a drag car / street monster - just something that will give me a little thrill when I do take it out. I would be satisfied with (410whp and 300wtrq)

Okay, it sounded like you were saying 7k for the kit plus the add-ons you mentioned like vented hood etc. Are you planning to self install and what about tuning? If you're fine with that level fo power and dont't plan to be tracking, the stock kit should work fine from what I have gathered on the forums. You should still def do a trans cooler though.

I did 4.08 and its a decent mod, good amount of acceleration increase. But you will cruise at higher revs. At 70 im at about 3000.

damn it you sir are informative. i actually feel like i learned something new today and it's only 7:50am lol.
does anyone know how much time it can shave off the 1/4 mile or anything like that.

I would either spend big money on a twin turbo kit or stay NA and do the 4.08 final gear. SC kit doesn't give you a big of a change in power especially the torque. 300ish ib/ft doesn't give you much excitement for the money. You will spend $10k for it.

According to a guy had both Stillen SC kit and GTM TT kit, the SC kit gave him some gain over the bolt ons but nothing crazy. Now he switched to a TT kit, he is not steering the steering wheel anymore rather he needs to grab the steering wheel because of the acceleration.

But TT kit will cost you at least $15,000 to do it right. If you decide to stay in NA, I'd recommend 4.08 final gear. Just my .02.

You will need Forced Induction for those numbers. Maxed out with NA mods will get you about 340whp give or take.

Yep; I'm seeing 341hp & 267tq on Z1motorsports page for their VQ37VHR 400HP Package... They are estimating 400HP @ the crank.


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Lets be honest here, we all want that lol.


And a friend of mine did 4.08's, loves it. IMO, after the bolt ons and tune, its the last, best thing you can do to get more "oomph" out of your NA.

Diff swap won't increase HP & TQ.. But you will fill more initial acceleration


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Spray it


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[QUOTE=jchammond;3214362]http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...2da623df93.jpg


How long will your engine last doing that ????????? It will end up costing you that !!!!! I would like to enjoy My Z a Bit more.