replace CSC early or let it fail one day?
 

I'm at 41k miles with my car. Does the CSC fail on every car, and if it does should I just replace it now before I get stranded somewhere. Should I repalce my clutch too while their working on it.

Mine failed at 18,000 miles .. I've read on here them failing at all different number of miles and people get the z1 upgrade instead of oem. Honestly you can wait it out , usually clutch pressure drops doesn't engage and it falls to the floor. This is risky if you're out driving but usually you'll just wake up to the clutch pedal on the floormat.

I'd buy the ZSpeed HD CSC and just wait for the day it fails

I've been wanting to ask the same question. After reading what ive read about the csc on this forum it seems like when buying a MT 370z your also buying a new csc... Id rather get it over with and stop thinking about it so i can sleep at night. Maby it will save me money instead of paying a tow truck if the worst happens.

I don't own a z..yet...my 2 cents

I would buy a csc and have it ready if you plan on keeping the car for a long time.

what if it never fails??:wtf2:

my plan is to throw a new clutch/flywheel and CSC as soon as I get back. it bothers me to no end. then again I am the paranoid type and have plans to track the car (HPDE and AutoX for fun) and feel like I will be "abusing" it. I'd be less worried if it was just for back roads and cruising and would probably just wait for it to fail naturally.

You speak of my spare steering lock? :mad:



:rofl2:

My csc will not fail. My 11yr old G (original owner) is proof..... ........ .

I would buy the aftermarket one keep it in the box and just keep an eye on the clutch fluid once a week or so. If it doesn't fail, just sell the unit when you part out.

I had mine replaced at 6k when I was stationed in Germany back in 2010. It hasn't gone out again and I'm at 55k now. Maybe I got a good one from the German Nissan group don't know.

I'm sure there's plenty of people who have had 0 issues thus far (myself included at 53k) It only seems like everybody does because those that do, come here seeking advice and/or to rant about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

op, this is your call. if it aint broke, dont fix it, but then again, better safe than sorry.

on my 07 350Z, there was an open recall on the same thing, but it never went out on me and nor did i get it "fixed" and traded it at 81k miles

Unfortunately mine went when I was about 120 miles from home in a heavy traffic jam at 5:00 p.m. In a large city. Worse, I was in the middle of 3 lanes at a traffic light. Blight changed and I could not shift to move. Had to get out of car, give apologetic smiles to folks behind me while others were making nasty comments as they passed me by. A couple of pedestrians walked over and helped push my car to the sidewalk.

Called triple A, waited about an hour feeling stupid as lots of pedestrians circled around the car staring at me. When the tow truck came, still more traffic problems, the car was loaded and then it was a two hour drive in the cab of a tow truck listening to a red neck driver telling me that in his 40+ years of owning cars, he had never had one that needed towing at 18k miles.
So, if I had known, for mental peace, I would have changed it ahead of time. However, if you are not straying far from home, maybe you can wait it out. Mine did show slight signs of it going before it went completely out. I was having difficulty shifting but thought I could get home and get it checked out.

I think the OEM flywheel and clutch are pretty heavy and worth replacing. Might as well do csc at the same time. I used JWT but there are plenty then your CSC is don't to so no worries and it was worth the trouble of opening it all up.

Yeah, but you only put on 100 miles a year, so the G only has 1100 miles...not a good point of reference. :stirthepot:

I didn't have problems with mine until well over 100,000, but it did go. And a few times after that, I had one go after 4,000. It's all random. IMO

:mad: point taken!


:rofl2:

Better yet, what if you remove factory csc that's working perfectly, Replace with aftermarket, and THAT ONE Fails?? Wouldn't that blow your mind? Would you put the factory back in??

Has anyone used the Z1 CSC elimination kit? Does it change the clutch feel significantly?

IMNSHO, it depends on what you use your car for. If it's a DD that rarely gets far from a tow truck, I'd wait until it fails. If you do a lot of driving out in the boonies, I'd do a proactive replacement. YMMV

I looked at that but as I have the z speed CSC already it's just a curiosity.

this type of thinking is not healthy! :mad:

I'm constantly worried about it happening, but I can't go throw down the cash for a replacement part that I may or may not need.

Catch-22 almost.

well since I drive about 100 miles a day I made up my mind to just buy the replacement. I seen a deal a while back on a csc, clutch, and fly from some website but I cant seem to find now. Any good combo recommendation? I DD this care and maybe track it like 1 day a year if that nothing serious.

I would go insane.

It's a gamble, but I wouldn't put too much into it. Without statistical data and analysis, it truly is a speculation at what mileage that it would fail.

The car is still drivable in medium to no traffic without a clutch. The Synchro Rev Match would make it easier, but it can be done without. It's called, strangely, rev matching. Hard to do in a very heavy to stop-n-go traffic and the route needs to be well-planned to lessen the number of stops. Shifting should be minimized to avoid the chance of wearing the synchronizers too much.

So, basically, when stopped, engine must be turned off. Put the shifter in 1st and start the engine; the car will jerk while the starter is cranking and the engine firing up. Bring engine speed a bit high, around 4-5k, then relax the throttle (do not lift completely) before moving the shifter to Neutral. Zero throttle while shifter is in neutral.

Next gear, I would pick 3rd to minimize shifting, would be engaged while the engine speed is on the way down or, if the Sport mode is engaged, the Synchro Rev Match will put the engine at the correct speed. Slide the shifter into the next gear, there should be little to no resistance when the engine speed and the vehicle speed are matched for that gear. If a downshift is required, slide the shifter into neutral, blip the throttle (or Synchro Rev Match would do it) while gently resting the shifter at the gate of a gear; once revs are matched, the shifter will slide into gear.

When a stop is imminent, reduce speed accordingly in gear. Once engine speed is low enough (I use 1.5k rpm or lower), slide the shifter into neutral, and continue braking. Once in a complete stop, turn off engine. To start, repeat the process from the top.

Stop signs are tricky and they can be two handfuls, literally. Watch traffic closely, be a defensive driver while doing this, and absolutely anticipate every and any possible scenario. Adjust vehicle speed to minimize stops at traffic lights. Left-hand turns can be nerve racking, but it's doable. Use hazard lights and turn signals (hazard is always on whenever a turn signal isn't needed).