Lift/Jacking Points
 

I got to making my first real mod to the Z, and while working with a very knowledgeable guy he mentioned something that was new to me. He basically suggested never using the pinch welds to jack up the car or hold it. As well as never to trust the scissor jack (which I understood, but he literally refused to use it almost).

My question to all the fellow Nismo owners is what you used to lift your ride, and where you lifted it from. We ended up having to do a tricky two-jack lift since one was low profile to get underneath the splitter, but another jack entirely to bring it up higher since the first one only went up so high and we had used the front jacking plate and the diff for the rear. Oh, and as far as the scissor jack goes, I was just curious if it is safe to use it to lift the car one side at a time to be put in stands.

No problems jacking at the pinch welds as long as your do it at the points stated in the manual. I suggest using a pad on top of the jack.

Nothing really wrong with a well-built scissor jack but they usually have a small base which can make them dangerous if used on a surface that is not level and hard. Garage use is OK.

A low-profile floor jack should be able to get under your Nismo.

Not directly related to your question, but if you have not seen this, it might be useful.

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...act-point.html

Thanks! yeah I was referring to the points stated in the manual, so that's good to know.

So you think using the scissor jack included in our cars to lift one side, and then the other should be ok in a garage setting?

That is actually very helpful, thank you very much

I never used a scissor jack on my Z but I've used them for at least two decades on many other cars. Just follow the usual safety precautions (chocks, don't raise past the limit of the jack, &c) and you should be OK.

If you plan on raising the car very often, a hydraulic floor jack is a good investment.

Edit: Do not use a scissor jack (or any other jack for that matter) to support the vehicle - use stands.

That makes sense.

I'll definitely be ordering a hydraulic jack, I'll make sure to spend what's needed for a low-profile one. And I wasn't referring to using the jack to hold the vehicle, just to raise it one side at a time in order for a stand to be placed :tiphat:

Jacks labeled as "low-profile" can get expensive. Measure to see what you need and go from there. If a "standard" jack will work, why spend the extra money? Get pads to go between the jack saddle and the car. They often look like a hockey puck with one or more grove cut in it.

I'd rather warn you and you not need it than the other way around. ;)

Well we had the issue with one that worked perfectly fine with a 350, I had to drive up some wood pieces to be able to reach the plate underneath the engine to jack it up. And even then, it wouldn't go high enough. The splitter is just so low

And yes, very very true sir. Wish more people had that thought process

I bought the Heavy Steel 2 ton low profile jack from Harbor Freight and it works great. It's less than $100 (I think I paid $70 or $80) and pick up a hockey puck from Big Five for $5 and you are set if you already have jack stands. I'm lowered on coils and I have no problem getting the jack under the car.

I do not lift from the pinch welds. In the rear I use the diff and in the front I use 2 jacks - a small one to go inboard of the pinch welds to the frame rail where I lift it just high enough to fit my full size low profile under the center to lift it high. I place Esco flat top stands under the pinch welds. They have a rubber pad the rail rests on. I plan on welding a suitable adapter to fit around the rail similar to the commercially available units used on shop lifts.