Well I can shorten that time with the Z (hwy 20 or 128 is so fun in that car) but yeah, Santa Rosa is about 2.5 hours and that is the "close" dealer.. haha

I had a similar issue that I fixed not too long ago. Turns out I had a vacuum leak post MAF sensor because one of the cheap plastic pieces on the post MAF tube had snapped and was now just sucking in air from the engine compartment. I would check all the lines coming out of the intake just to make sure that wasn't the issue. I thought it was a bad tune as well but now my car's 100% again.

I've gone over about everything I can see / check. Nothing looks out of place. IF it happens, which is right after a cold start typically within a minute of driving. Almost always it occurs when I'm shifting from first to second. As soon as I shift into second, I'll feel a hesitation, then it's almost like the computer remaps the throttle. If I feather the throttle it will still have just a little power, if I romp on it, nothing or I'll start actually slowing. It is possible to redline it still in neutral but the car isn't happy about it.

The trick to fixing it is to shut the engine off for about 10 to 15 seconds. I restart and everything is back to normal.

It's not a limp mode thing, it's not a high heat issue since it's still cold. Usually the oil temp isn't even registering yet... It's always after a completely cold start if it happens, which isn't all the time but enough now to be annoying me. :-/

Since the dealer is 2.5 hours away I can't just drive it to them while it's happening. Leaving it at the dealership isn't going to insure they find the problem since it doesn't happen all the time and other than the cold start I don't have a set of "do this and it'll happen" scenarios... Grr! lol

fuel pressure problem?

I have the same exact problem. Mines is a 2013 6mt sport package. Completely stock. Happens on cold start. I always ended up pulling over and shutting the car off or reset the ecu via gas pedal method.

sounds like it's a 2013 model issue? thinking back to my own experiments and attempts at inducing the lag, the only thing that comes to mind is a faulty brake switch (or one that isnt correctly adjusted). or a bug in the ECM software.

can you warm up the engine fully and then start driving? will it fault then?
ie. start the car and do not touch anything or any pedals til the engine is warmed up, idling at 650ish rpm, both radiator hoses hot etc.

This will rule out a buggy cold start software issue

For my issue it's still happens when the car is warmed up.

This "power loss," is pretty much the throttle not opening up as wide especially under 3k RPM. Or you'll get a surge after 2k RPM. This happened when I was stock, and seems to have been remedied by replacing one of the brake switches. I still get this problem occasionally as well after a cold start, or after driving for long periods of time. The car sounds different as if it is subdued, so it's obvious the throttle isn't opening up as wide or opens up at a slower rate as the driver commands it.

This is the one thing I don't like about DBW systems since the ECU is constantly optimizing for efficiency. One thing you can test, though, is to rev it past 3k RPM in 1st (no need to floor it), and then in 2nd you'll feel the throttle response is much different.

Dude, I have the exact same problem! I thought it was limp mode( after reading this thread --> http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...everytime.html) but I guess it's actually called fail safe mode. My car is completely stock '13 base auto. What is wrong with the 2013 models?

Haven't seen this yet; but i read all comment's and seen where the K&N air filters were recently cleaned......do not over oil.
if mafs get dirty-greatly affects throttle response.
also if your Z sits for any period of time,,definitely reccomend E-Free Gasoline & not an additive/treatment.

My car is completely stock. Stock intake, stock everything power train related. Only aftermarket thing I have is a audio/video head unit. My Z has 35XXX miles and I have done all the scheduled maintenance myself (didn't want to get raped by Nissan) with the best stuff available. I haven't even driven it that hard. Freakin Nissan..

I get on mine a little.https://vimeo.com/136968803


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i run in to the same problem ever once in a while but it always changes a bit. sometimes first gear is weak and second pulls hard and other times its the other way around.

I'm having the exact same problem. My 2013 370 Z convertible with sports package, occasionally loses power at start-up. The car starts fine but when I start driving it feels like a 2 cylinder car or like the power is going through a bottleneck when I accelerate. I can floor it in 1st and it doesn't have the beefy throttle as usual and does this in all gears. This is not like another thread I read where the Tach won't go past 3500 rpms. It drives completely normal except that there is a strained acceleration.

I can pull over. Shut the car down and start it back up and run just fine. Happens once in a great while.

This exact thing happens to me. Did either of you guys find a solution or even the isusue? I'm completely stock as well.