How did you deal with cooling on a force induced nismo?
 

I ask because I have plans to turbo my car.

Since our bumpers are different we probably have more problems with cooling than a regular Z. At least that is what I remember reading somewhere on this forum.

Does a oil cooler really help considering it usually sits behind the intercooler? What steps have you guys taken to try and keep oil temps low in order to enjoy the car in a hot summer day? What temps are you guys seeing with your setup on some spirited driving?

Thanks

I went with the largest radiator (CSF) and oil cooler that would fit (34r). I am running oil-cooled turbos, so I went with the big boys. No issues in the summer, but takes forever to warm up in the cold. Looking for a thermostatic/temperature-sensor driven solution for my "problem"........over-cooling.

The only real world issue I experienced in temps approaching 100, was that my AC would shut down if I sat (stopped) for long periods or got on it while in boost. I think my system was overpressurized and haven't had that issue since the temps have been under 90F.

CSF radiator,25 row oil cooler w/6.5in Spal electric fan,And having total control of the cooling fan temp/percentage with Uprev.

I have no issues at all even in 100 deg. temps

Ok, I left out the tidbit about going to UPREV a couple months ago and they UN-chopped my tune. They also flashed the latest software minus VVEL control. The fan control is pretty pimp.

Side note: Make sure whoever does your tuning FULLY UNDERSTANDS the UPREV software. The guy that did my original tune tapdanced thru the software. He is a great tuner, but was all thumbs with the software. Omar, on the other hand, is a master with the software (as he should be, since he works with it all the time). Mechanical install is pretty straightforward, given the correct tools and prep. Tuning is a whole different matter!

Your tuner didn't flash your car with any VVEL adjustments b/c only about 10 E CU's have been unlocked by Uprev,mine was not one of the ones that could be flashed yours is probably not on the list yet.

The oil cooler will be fine located between the intercooler & radiator.
Main things to focus on to help:
-Proper size oil cooler
-Uprev tune with better fan controls

Next level:
-Radiator (CSF or GTM)
-Better fans
-Venting (Hood, fender liner)

My original tuner was in Ohio and was a wizard, but not familiar with the software. My new tuner is Omar @ UPREV. I was there in October. I spoke with them briefly, but my next focus is forged internals and possible boost increase.

Not sure how the stock fans hold up on the track, but they have done fine for me. I have not experimented with venting, but it is in the cards. I think a combination of vented hood, vented fenders, Stillen style bumper or additional ducting to an OEM bumper will do the trick. The big question is what combination will yield the best result and not upset aerodynamics while remaining visually pleasing?

ok, i know this thread is old, but those who went with the CSF, or even mishimoto radiator, did you have trouble fitting the oil cooler over it, AND keeping the yamaha damper? or did you simply remove it?

CSF w/ 34 row oil cooler here. Both fit just fine, I just rotated the damper.
But for what its worth... that combo wasn't enough to keep me cool on the track after a few laps.

I'm thinking of either relocating the oil cooler to free up some space, and/or adding some more ventilation into the front bumper to get the radiator some more fresh air and vent the hood.

ahh thanks. i saw someone with the mishimoto 40mm radiator had to install half inch spacers in order to fit their oil cooler. with the damper rotated 180 degrees, stock radiator, oil cooler, the damper is maybe 1-2mm away with 1 washer on the brackets. was scared an upgraded radiator would force me to remove the damper

Im kinda thinking about putting hood vents on, GTR style. 3/4 of the way back on the hood so it only exhausts and doesnt created positive pressure against air coming in through the front. BUT, i was thinking about using an 80MM or 120MM silent but high RPM computer fan directly under the vents, so even at a stop it would pull air out of the engine bay, and wire it to run off the radiator fans. any thoughts on that? also I wanted to take out my wheel well plastic, put a nice looking pattern on it, and cut vents into it and cover it with mesh wire to keep out water sling. most of those fans are so quiet you cant even hear them, especially over sounds of a running engine.

Stick a hot chick under the hood and tell her to blow my engine! actually that might not work..

in all seriousness, GTR hood vents arent a bad idea. theres some evidence on the boards that venting does indeed help alot, but computer fans would be a terrible choice. you'd blow a fuse instantly. our cars usually run around 14V when the engine is running, and itd probably blow the fan. also...they are not waterproof.

well what I should say is, LIKE computer fans. Im positive you could find some that run at the same voltage as the fans you would use on your radiator. and positioning as well as how you cover the vent would take care of the water issue. especially since they are blowing up all the time. very little water enter a proper hood vent WITHOUT fans, so it makes me believe it would be even less with pressure blowing out.

and also, build comps in my past time. most computer fans are designed to run on 12v. straight from the PSU if you wanted too, but usually off the motherboard. so finding one that runs on 14 is by no means a tall order.

A couple of 4" Spal fans would do the trick.

think its worth trying? i KNOW im not the first person to think of this. and it seems like it would really work well. but ive never actually seen it done. the physics behind it say it will work. Im trying to figure out a clever way of fastening it to the bottom side of the hood without drilling holes.

The hard part would be figuring out the best place for the vents. I'm not convinced the GTR vents are optimal. Something closer to the front of the hood between the motor and radiator would seem to be where you would want some kind of extractor vent. Similar to the Evo or new Vette. If the vent is in the right place, the fan may be overkill or even blocking airflow when its not running. The best way to do it would be to vent the hood, log temps and then add the fans and log again.

Im not so sure. not at speed anyway. if its facing the wrong way, too close to the front, or too close to the back it will cause positive pressure and less air will come IN the front. so we need to find the sweet spot where air enters the radiator, flows past the motor and up out the hood vent, but it cant be too close to the windshield as it will do what a cowl induction hood does and cram air INTO it. thing is, the vents dont need to be big, shape and placement are far more important than how many, or how big they are. You can have half the hood vented and if they are shaped wrong or in stupid spots it could do more harm than good. we need some way of testing people that have vented hoods, everyone just "thinks" they are working but no ones compared yet.

and the fans would PRIMARILY help when the car is NOT moving fwd. such as traffic. but would not impede flow when the car IS moving. and even if the cars off, its not going to be any WORSE than just not having vents at all.

The problem I have with "testing" it is that my car runs completely fine on the street. So scheduling a track day after every cooling modification could get quite pricey.

In the next few weeks I will be adding the vents to the front bumper and adding some ducting. I'm thinking something like the vents people put in for the intakes, but instead of cold air to the intakes, I'm hoping for cold air to the radiator.

That should take care of the cold air in. The second step will be to get the hot air out. For that I think behind the radiator but just before the motor would be a decent spot for the vent. I may just get lazy and get a vented fiberglass hood.