A G37x dynoed at a shop by me @341whp. It had full bolt-on's. Stillen CBE, Intake, HFC's and an UpRev tune. It had a baseline of 315whp without the tune. I don't know how much it dynoed stock at this particular dyno, so its hard to calcultate hp @ the flywheel.

A tech said Z's had similar readings. Seeing as how our engines are pretty much the same, a 370 could easily see those gains without having to go FI. Some would say the shop's dyno tend to read a little high, but you really can't argue the gains over baseline with the tune. 400 hp with a 15% loss is about 340 whp.

Stickers.

Lots and lots of stickers.

:icon18:

CBE like Fast Intentions = ~7whp. (Over a regular 370z it's more like 15whp but since the Nismo comes with a nismo exhaust already the CBE is only slightly better for about 7whp)

Stillen Intake = ~7whp. (Yes over a stock car it will yeild 15whp but it's been shown that on a car that already has exhaust mods it only gives about 5-7whp)

HFC = ~5whp

Headers = ~12whp

Tune = ????? (The nismo already comes tunned, so how much more hp are you going to be able to squeeze out by getting an aftermarket tune? That becomes the questions. I wouldn't venture to say it's much. You might see some gains under the area of the curve but strtictly talking about peak hp, I'm not sure you'll see much. I know some here actually lost hp after getting a tune. Of course a lot has to be said about the tuners skills as well. I would say this mod is questionable for the NISMO in terms of gaining hp. Of course in regards to AF ratios and max performance it might be helpful.

Pulleys = ~5whp.

So thats your basic bolt on's. You are looking at about 36whp or close to 50 hp at the crank. Is it worth it? Thats up to you but honestly with the crappy traction this car has stock I wonder if there is much point to it witout also looking to upgrade the tires. Good luck

Remeber the sum of total performance gained is not equal to individual gains of parts totaled. As you start modding the hp gained typically decreases. Example: Stillen Gen 3's are good for about 15hp over stock. Stillen CBE is also good for about 15hp over stock. Combined you will only see about 20-23hp gained over stock, NOT 30hp.

Bolt ons along won't gain you anything if it's not loss power... I had 1/2 MD spacer, AEM CAI, Fast Intentions HFC, Fast Intentions Carbon Fiber catback on my G35 coupe. Oh yeah guess what, the car pulls so slow at low rpm. The only thing increases is the exhaust note... A tune is a MUST. But still, it won't get you 50hp on a NA car. Forced induction is the way to go.

~17%, based on SAE corrected dynojet values.

Unexpectedly, same for AT and MT, BTW.

How dependable is the car with a supercharger on it?

6k miles so far for me. Not one issue. GTM kit.

If you buy quality components and have a proper install done, it'll be as reliable as stock. This assumes you address the weaknesses in stock components that are stressed by an FI system since that's part of a proper installation.

In your opinion, what would be considered "weaknesses in stock components."

Oh sure they will. Pistons, Cams, heads, headers, intake, exhaust and tune will get you there with hp to spare. It's all matter of how much you want to spend. Forced induction isn't the only way to get over 400 hp. You don't need nitrous or forced induction.

I always find these discussions funny. Much of the discussion is focused on peak HP with a few people who get it. What is primary use of the car?

If it's a street car you should be more concerned about maximizing mid range torque and hp over stock baseline. Too many people focus on peak number due to lack of understanding what makes a fast car for each application. If you can't make a redline shift every time 50 peak hp at top of rev limit isn't going to help if you lose critical mid range power.

Having said that a proven good set of intakes that don't hurt torque numbers, long tube headers, Uprev tune should get you 20 to 25 hp/ torque that is usable from mid range to top end. The stated hP claims for all bolt ons are wildly exaggerated and tend to be focused on peak hp. Most use a poor stock dyno run and then put up a good run with bolt on to make hp claims. many don't tell you type of dyno or if it's a properly corrected number. Dyno claims are like weight loss pill commercial claims in my opinion. Lots of wild claims with few facts or data often.

Realistically only way you're going to gain 50 usable hp in a street car is to go forced induction. A few bolt ons will not likely get anywhere close to more 50 HP on a Nismo.

I'd love to see someone do a large displacement motor build. I think bigger displacement VQ would grab 50 plus hp easily. Something like 4.5 liter, aggressive cams and heads, etc but that goes beyond simple bolt on.

With my nismo I have focused more on getting weight off the car especially rotating weight. Aluminum hat rotors, lightweight flywheel, and lightweight 18 inch wheels are best bolt ons in my opinion.

Bull Crap! For those who know what there doing with a motor it's not difficult.

Those aren't considered "bolt ons." The only other all motor VQ I know about that's close to 400 is the Nismo 380RS which is 380ps. True, forced induction isn't the only way to get over 400 but it's certainly the most cost effective. The problem with trying to go at or over 400 with the VQ37HR is the lack of research, development, and parts for all motor builds.

They are considered bolt on's to those who know what they're doing and what else would you call heads that bolt on? Bullocks, there are several companies that offer long blocks of your compression choice and are rated over 500 hp.

We're running 396 @ the rear with Pistons (11:1 compression), Cams, Rods, Heads, Headers, Intake, Improved Fueling, Tune, HFC's and cat back on 91 octane. With 96 and above will crest 400 quite easily. With a bit more tweaking, it will surpass 400 rwhp 91 octane and what's been done to the motor is considered mild in comparison. Price is reasonable and the motor is much more reliable then and FI motor, especially for everyday driving.

The problem with an FI motor, is the eternals. They can't take the pressure and continuous abuse. Parts wear quicker and are very susceptible to breakage, particularly mains, rods and cranks caused by inefficient oiling.