Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   Newby looking for power mods for '10 370Z (http://www.the370z.com/mid-atlantic-region/47847-newby-looking-power-mods-10-370z.html)

eastwest2300 01-11-2012 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cristobal09 (Post 1484872)
I agree, I just cannot understand why.....UNLESS they are doing it for the sound and if they rev up that high all the time.

But use the 300 bucks you saved by getting the hoses and K&N filters and apply it towards stillen sways or swift springs.

Chris, I need to give you a call so you can steer me right, I know I wouldnt drive my Z that hard, to where Im shifting at 6800 rpms.. so you're route sounds feasible.

b1adesofcha0s 01-11-2012 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FL 4Motion (Post 1484880)
To be fair(ish), the stillen CAI will yield a few more whp peak, so if someone is looking to have the absoulute highest dyno #'s they possibly can, while not really worrying about little to no midrange gains, then the Stillen CAI is what the doctor ordered.

And if you get a used set like I did, you don't have to spend all that much on it. :tup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by eastwest2300 (Post 1484993)
Chris, I need to give you a call so you can steer me right, I know I wouldnt drive my Z that hard, to where Im shifting at 6800 rpms.. so you're route sounds feasible.

Granny shifting, not double-clutching like you should...........

Kirkster 01-11-2012 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eastwest2300 (Post 1484993)
Chris, I need to give you a call so you can steer me right, I know I wouldnt drive my Z that hard, to where Im shifting at 6800 rpms.. so you're route sounds feasible.

:shakes head::shakes head::shakes head:

If you are not hitting the redline at least once or twice a month you must be a Metrosexual...

You need to start shopping here. Yes the link is work safe

b1adesofcha0s 01-11-2012 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirkster (Post 1485156)
:shakes head::shakes head::shakes head:

If you are not hitting the redline at least once or twice a month you must be a Metrosexual...

You need to start shopping here. Yes the link is work safe

:werd:

Cristobal09 01-11-2012 08:40 AM

Heres what I can comment on for what I have so far

Gemini catback exhaust - biggest power gainer by a good number, plus it adds a nice sound. Its the quietest exhaust from what ive heard, and when I go to the meets, it is my favorite sound.

Swift springs - This was a great suspension mod, handling improved a good deal but lowered the car where I scrape almost everywhere. Railroad tracks I have to go 5 mph over, but the lower plastic things take a brunt of the force.

Ichiba rear camber arms - Just get these with the springs, the rear camber will get knocked outta whhack, and unless you want some SERIOUS camber changes, go with the ichiba. It costs about 60 bucks cheaper and does the same thing, but can only adjust 2 degrees both ways, instead of SPC's 3 degrees. Ichiba is perfect.

Stillen front and rear sway bars - By far the most noticeable suspenison mod. It took my shop an hour to do (I dont do any work myself, I figure i went to school and got a good job to make enough money to have somebody do it for me ;) ) and I had them put it on the stiffest setting.....My car is like riding on rails now its soooooo great. If I could do it all over again, i would do stillen sways before the springs.

Mishimoto post maf hose/K&N filters - I was not expecting big gains from this. Mid range is a definitely a little peppier and the sound is a little better. When you rev it to about 5000 you hear the noise. But my exhaust overrides it a bit.

Now youll hear people using Berk/invidia/stillen test pipes/HFC's, but personally I wouldnt mess with the cats. Ive spoken to numerous people and they all claim it added very little power but mainly noise to the exhaust. And to me, IMO, isnt worth cost. Its REALLY noisy.

You already know my thoughts on stillen intakes.

Headers, again, I dont see many people using because its very low horsepower adder. Plus its a PITA to install and it quite pricey.

Supercharger - Now this would obviously be the best way for power. Kirkster is the only one I know of thhat has one of these. But hes also a master mechanic and if something breaks, he can fix it.

I bought all of my parts from Jomer. Hes on the forums here and will always get you the best prices. FBnissan is his name on the forums here so dont shop online before consulting forum vendors for prices.

Kirkster 01-11-2012 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1adesofcha0s (Post 1485183)
:werd:

Heh. You must already be sporting a Murse...

b1adesofcha0s 01-11-2012 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirkster (Post 1485203)
Heh. You must already be sporting a Murse...

No I was agreeing with you on the redlining, it needs to be done :p

Cristobal09 01-11-2012 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eastwest2300 (Post 1484993)
Chris, I need to give you a call so you can steer me right, I know I wouldnt drive my Z that hard, to where Im shifting at 6800 rpms.. so you're route sounds feasible.

I just wore in past the 1200 mile mark. I cant keep it off of redline now....God I love this car. Maybe I shoulve bought the stillen in the first place :shakes head::shakes head::shakes head:

b1adesofcha0s 01-11-2012 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cristobal09 (Post 1485214)
I just wore in past the 1200 mile mark. I cant keep it off of redline now....God I love this car. Maybe I shoulve bought the stillen in the first place :shakes head::shakes head::shakes head:

:iagree:

b1adesofcha0s 01-11-2012 08:55 AM

Also the rear camber arms are not always necessary. I didn't need them when I dropped my Z on the swifts. My rear camber is at -2.3/-2.4.

Cristobal09 01-11-2012 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1adesofcha0s (Post 1485228)
Also the rear camber arms are not always necessary. I didn't need them when I dropped my Z on the swifts. My rear camber is at -2.3/-2.4.

I was at -2.6 for the rears, after the ichibas I had them adjust it back to -1.8. I think the stock specs are between -2.1 and -1.2 or something? I would figure at what you are at, youll burn through tires much quicker. But what do I know, ive only had my car for 1300 miles.

b1adesofcha0s 01-11-2012 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cristobal09 (Post 1485252)
I was at -2.6 for the rears, after the ichibas I had them adjust it back to -1.8. I think the stock specs are between -2.1 and -1.2 or something? I would figure at what you are at, youll burn through tires much quicker. But what do I know, ive only had my car for 1300 miles.

Mine is only a little bit off, nothing too bad.

Kirkster 01-11-2012 09:09 AM

The specs for the rear are -2.2 being the max and I am at -2.2 on the drivers side and -2.3 on the passengers side.

I have not noticed any tread life problems and have had a set of RE11s on there for the last 11K miles. Surprisingly have lots of tread life left which was a shocker as I have heard that these tires don't last long...

b1adesofcha0s 01-11-2012 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kirkster (Post 1485268)
The specs for the rear are -2.2 being the max and I am at -2.2 on the drivers side and -2.3 on the passengers side.

I have not noticed any tread life problems and have had a set of RE11s on there for the last 11K miles. Surprisingly have lots of tread life left which was a shocker as I have heard that these tires don't last long...

Especially with everything they've been through after the SC install :icon17:

eastwest2300 01-11-2012 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1adesofcha0s (Post 1485125)


Granny shifting, not double-clutching like you should...........

hahaha...:bowrofl::bowrofl:


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