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-   -   RiD3_FaM0uS's Journey to 850+whp Build Thread (http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-gallery/95256-rid3_fam0uss-journey-850-whp-build-thread.html)

TerribleONE 03-24-2017 09:15 AM

Nice!

Rid3_FaM0uS 03-24-2017 03:48 PM

gonna try and squeeze in another update before I take off for Toledo for the night here...

Rid3_FaM0uS 03-24-2017 03:58 PM

Hows the saying go... something like "If it aint broke, don't fix it"? well mine wasn't broke but I decided to fix it anyway. Permanently.

By now you might've guessed it...








Everyone wants to whine about replacing and rebuilding the factory CMC, but NO ONE wants to make a solution! Well. I did the "solution", and boys/girls... I'm here to tell you the results are FANTASTIC.

I'm sure anyone by this point can tell these updates are well behind and at this point I have broken in a triple disk clutch on this setup comfortably. No leaks. no failures. no mushy pedal strokes.

Meet my new friend Tilton.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...psyasl8lqo.jpg

Lets dive into the install; shall we?

Rid3_FaM0uS 03-24-2017 05:06 PM

Our trusty buddy Joe Allison over at Z Speed Performance does a STELLAR job of laying out some serious ground work to make this conversion relatively simple I just turned some gears to make it work on our platform:stirthepot:. So, Thank you Joe. :) :happydance:
ZSpeed Performance Nissan Infinti OEM & Performance Parts

First things first I want to note that a second person will be necessary for wrapping up this install.

SAFELY elevate your car onto a lift/jack stands to be able to separate the clutch line either at the transmission, or along the fender wall; the choice is yours(if you already have a SS clutch line I would choose the latter of the two options). Capture the fluid that will drain from the CMC reservoir for reuse(if that's your thing) or disposal. Dismount the driver front tire(at minimum. All four ideally), and remove the inner well liner closest to the cabin; as well as removing the bonnet plastics to access the brake booster/clutch master cylinder, and ABS module completely.

Locate your CMC so you're familiar with what you're working with here.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...pswhixessd.jpg

Disconnect the two associated sensors by the brake master reservoir, and tuck them out of the way.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...pssol47lbn.jpg

For the next part I highly suggest having a few rags handy as if you're not familiar with working with brake fluid it WILL eat paint. Clear coated or not(in the case of your engine bay), and there is no guaranteed way to remove the hazard of brake fluids leaking during this mod. Also, I would recommend sourcing a few cap plugs like you will see in my pictures to keep all of you brake fluid from draining out of your lines everywhere. I used 4 1/8" and 4 3/16(or1/4" IDR) red cap plugs. They will be a very tight fit, but that's what you want to keep from lines dribbling.

Locate and remove, with a 12mm wrench, the two feed lines from the brake master to the ABS module. this is where you will want to use the plugs in the side of the ABS module and the

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...pslz1m3cca.jpg

Next use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the 4 brake lines at the top ABS module, and use your 4 1/8" plugs to plug the bottom of the lines from draining the stored fluids out.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...pswhixessd.jpg

Locate the 3 12mm hex head nuts holding the ABS module to the fender well. Remove them and pull upward on the module to remove it. Set it aside on some rags and a non painted surface, as any captive fluid will drain out.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...psa5vebnml.jpg

(Lack of pictures through out this part you'll have to excuse me)
You will then need to awkwardly position yourself in and underneath the driver foot well of your car and disconnect the two 10mm nuts as well as removing the cotter pin from the back of the clutch pedal separating the threaded shaft from the pedal assembly. Back up top in the brake booster compartment remove the two 10mm bolts holding the clutch fluid reservoir as well as disconnecting the clutch line from the CMC. carefully remove the CMC from the firewall and set it aside.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6oxjidlz.jpg

At this time you can then remove the existing hard line by fishing it down and out of the compartment. You wont be needing this anymore.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/...psq6ivccu0.jpg




Going to make a brief pause here... didn't realize this was going to take me 2 hours to fully prepare haha. TO BE CONINUED!:rock:


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