Wow, That sucks Mike! At least you know what it will take to fix it and you have now shown the community something to watch for! I have been watching your track progress avidly and enjoy reading what you post, so best of wishes on getting her back together and back on the track.

no i was on the front stretch at that point trying to get pics of everyone as they passed by in large groups

Well, I bought some hose clamps to put on there, but I'm really not comfortable with that, so I have been doing some checking and there is a hydraulic hose company local here. I am going to take my hoses to them and have them build me ones of the same size that are better attached.

If excess pressure build up from the flow restriction of the cooler is part of the problem, then you could relieve some pressure by drilling a hole through the Mocal adapter. This would let some oil bypass the cooler and go straight through the filter. The oil that does go through the cooler would do so at a slower pace than before, resulting in that oil having a larger temperature drop.

Ah, from one of your earlier posts, you mentioned cutting a hose too short. Thought you had left it that way.


Any chance something like this could be working the hoses loose? How do our mounts look when the car is revving on a dyno?

So I wonder what kind of pressure we're seeing inside the lines? Aren't the socket-less fittings good to around 250 psi or so?

no, I fixed it, thats when I found out how almost impossible they were to remove. That video I think shows a bad motor mount, its not that extreme, or shouldn't be.

Got the new hoses fabricated today. $110.00 and they are rated at 800psi, burst strength is 4000psi. I highly recommend finding a local hydraulic shop and going this route if you are making your own kit.

Also turns out the owner of the shop is an old time Datsun racer and still has a basement full of early Z car and 510 parts!

http://www.the370z.com/members/mike-...psi-rating.jpg

On another note, since raising the car (switched from eibachs to a nismoZ suspension), the tires stuck out with the 25mm spacers and were no longer tucked under.


Since I have everything off the car and on stands, decided to switch to type one 15mm spacers that I have. I was worried about fitting the longer studs in without disassembling the parking brake assembly, but up to 15 fit with no problem.
http://www.the370z.com/members/mike-...tuds-rears.jpg

I have the parts on order from Z1. On my to-do list is refill the oil now that I have the new lines on and rebleed the brakes, as I took the brembos off and put the stocker on for now, with the one front caliper being saturated in oil.

Since the radiator core support needs to be replaced, I'm not comfortable with missing something else that might be broken, so I am towing it to my bodyshop on friday to commence repairs.

I got a quote today for 1900 to wrap the car flat black and put my company logo on the doors and hood. Going to compare with getting a flat clear on the entire car instead, but I think it will be flat when all of this is over with.

The Mocal thermostatic plate already has a bypass. It's designed to work if there is a blockage in the cooler so I'm not sure what pressure is required to activate the bypass.

Is that the hose rating or the hose-to-connector rating?

hose to connector

Have you considered sending a message to Eaton/Aeroquip to see what they have to say? They advertise it as a "Socketless Racing Hose" rated up to 300F and 250 PSI. If it is not performing to spec they might be interested. They probably aren't going to pay you to fix your car but I for one would certainly like to know why it couldn't hold 60-100 PSI.

not really, but maybe I should.

Got it filled with oil and started again today! That plus swapped back to the akebono brakes and street pads, since the brembos were saturated with oil, and rebled the brakes. Its on the floor again (oops, gotta go torque the wheels!!!!!!! glad I started writing this). Going to body shop tomorrow.