that's what I am getting with Project Mu B-Spec pads.

I am at 37k miles, just rolled over last night and still on stock brake parts.
Get some vibration when stopping sometimes and I can definitely tell they are starting to wear. I am pricing out parts and 2 piece rotors are on the list but not 100% sure I want to drop the coin on them.

Meeting up with Keith tonight so we can look at the noise and he wants to ride in the car with a SC. If anyone else wants to meet up let me know, going to be on the west side of town around I10 probably around 6-7PM.

i need rotors to. I am around the same mileage also.

:icon18:

2 cents... I'd be a little cautious on 2-piece aftermarket rotors until we see some reliability data... I've heard a few stories already about failures. Others can tell those tales, if they like. I'd recommend simple slotted rotors combined with any mod you can come up with to increase airflow.

DBA5000s have been around for a while. Or do you mean reliability data specifically from our cars when fitted with aftermarket 2pc rotors?

Maybe a more general way to put it would be: no matter who's making your rotors and how much reputation they have, rotors are a throw-away expendable item in the long run. All rotors eventually fail. A light-duty OEM rotor lasts a little while street driving, and if you're doing more than that and you "need" a better rotor, that means you're also hitting that rotor harder. In the net, they're still gonna be dead on a regular basis. Think hard about whether whatever the rotors cost you is something you want to toss out the window on a regular basis :)

For example, Z1 has some awesome OEM-replacement rotors that you can order slotted for $198 a pair (front or rear), made from good quality blanks. To me right now, that seems like the sweet spot for rotor price/perf unless you're on the really serious end of tracking/racing the car. I'm probably going to be picking up a set of them in the next few days, but I need to sort a few things out first: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors

Back from comparing my suspension with Keith's. His does not make the noise like mine, but he has a lot more miles on his so mine may still be settling in as I have just been doing highway miles the past couple days. Only other difference is his car is a bit lower than mine, but not sure that would cause any noise.

On the rotor note, thanks for the info will probably stick to the 1 piece then.

Many many Hi level Brake manufactures make their top shelf kits w/ a 2 piece rotor design for a reason. The rotor will expand and contract w/ heat more effectively and evenly, the weight reduction alone is awesome compared to a one piece, the fact that you can keep the hats(which look 100x's better than a single/solid rotor design) and just replace the actual rotor disc is nice, they dissipate heat at a quicker rate than a solid one piece design will. There are perks to running a two piece design.

Brembo Brakes - GT-R Braking System

Project Mu Brakes - Brake Rotor - SCR Pro

Street Heavy Duty | Disc Brakes Australia

but if you don't trak, then I guess there is no point.

Damn, StopTech did their homework. I'm guessing you are running those since you settle for nothing but the best! :tup:

:tup: Actually that article and some other research help me go with the StopTechs. Plus with them in Cali its easy for tech help.

Great find and a slew of great info. Repped brotha!

The height could be a factor. The spring may not have enough tension when unloaded (pre-load) causing it to rattle going over bumps. If you jack up the rear of the car (body, not control arm) let the rear hang loose and remove the wheel. If you can shake the spring at all then that is the cause of your noise. Just give a couple of turns on the adjuster so that it is tighter and even with the other side.