Thanks! All 4 sides have to be boxed in to make it effective.

Like mentioned above, 17s will only fit on non-sport model cars, but the idea is there. The lighter the better. Forgestar F14s are actually right along the same weight range as the RPF-1s. As an example, the 18x10" Forgestar F14 is in the 18 lb. range while the 18x10" RPF-1 is actually in the 19 lb. range according to information I found on the internet. I didn't weigh mine personally. As for the exhaust, again lighter is always better but weight that is below the center of gravity and in the middle of the car, like an exhaust, is probably the least effective weight mod as far as handling goes. For me, power/torque benefits of an exhaust comes first, then weight. If power/torque gains are similar then go for the lighter one but if you gain more power at the expense of a little more weight, I think that will be more beneficial.

I did the same thing... it allowed me to drop from dual core to single core oil cooling and thus savings 5-6 pounds net weight on the nose

Mike, what did you make the panels out of and how did you bend them and connect them? I have a fairly complete home mechanic setup but no metal working equipment.

Neither do I, this was done ghettolicious style for sure but it works haha. I mocked everything up using cardboard then cut the templates out of thin sheetmetal I got at Home Depot. None of them have bends with the exception of the bottom piece that has a 90 degree bend so it can be bolted to the oil cooler bracket. I got that bend with a hammer and the edge of a shelf haha. The two side pieces are simply double-stick taped to the sides of the cooler and the top piece is double-stick taped to the top of the cooler. If I knew how to weld, I could have welded it all together at this point but I don't so I just sealed up the small seams where the panels met with duct tape. It sounds really flimsy but the bottom piece creates the main support and that is bolted to the car. And if you take the time to do it right all of the panels should fit snug just on their own with pressure. The double stick tape holds them on there surprisingly well and the duct tape prevents the panels from separating from each other under high pressure. I have done a couple of 100+mph runs (supervised by a professional driver on a closed course.....;) ) with zero signs of deflection or separation or anything else.

Even though untested I decided to post up a new mini article on my website and blog featuring Part 1 of my 370Z's planned cooling mods.

Cold Front | Project 370Z Cooling Upgrades Pt.1

Cool. I'm going to try this. Although I will probably bring it down to the sheet metal shop to get welded or borrow a welder and add a few tack welds to accent the duct tape :)

any chance you can tell us how to wrap the rear mid bumper piece? ordering the fx film. but have no idea how to do it lol

Travis, did you ever get to replace your glass with the Lexan?

Unfortunately I have no clue haha. I had mine installed by a professional. Try and find someone local to you that does car wraps and see if they will do a cheap install for you. Some stuff like the roof and other relatively flat surfaces are probably fairly easy installs, but the rear valance is not something I would tackle on my own.

yup. rear window only. haven't found a good solution for the windshield yet so leaving the oem glass for now. side windows are void.

i added a couple walkthrough vids on my journal just now if you want to see.

cool stuff Travis! Dumb question, how does your engine rev to 9.5k while our engine rev to 7.5k at most. does M370 manifold contribute?

It's just a telemetry error.

ok. i just noobbed out lol.

Just found out that my car will be invited to SEMA this year to be on display in the BC Racing Suspension/Wheels booth!

Look for a new set of 19" BC Racing Wheels coming soon...these ones to be exact...

http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ZNV/370z_1.jpg

Now to find some more sponsors to help me make the Z prettier to look at...

:tup: