Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 1544539)

Wiring gurus (do we have any?)-

I'm putting an LED lighting system on my truck bed and running power through a relay and switch mounted in the cab... I noticed that when I turn power on to the lights I get a voltage spike on the low current 12v that includes a toggle switch. This is the same 12v that sends a remote on signal to my stereo amp (the blue wire)... it causes a loud crackle over the speakers, which I'm guessing is a voltage spike to the amp. In any event, I read that you can fix this by wiring in a diode across the relay control (85/86 terminals)... I bought a bunch of 1amp and 3amp diodes. How do I install those? There is a red end and a white end on the diodes, which goes to which terminal on the relay? Help a brother out! thanks

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1545012)

So water-routing-wise you just put it inline with the lower radiator hose between the radiator's output and the thermostat/pump inlet on the engine? And then a non-thermostatic sandwich plate for the oil?

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1545012)

I'm wondering whether the stock radiator can handle this all by itself though, or if an upgraded radiator is needed to go Laminova and ditch the air cooler.

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1544808)

So your using the low current 12V signal to energize the relay via the switch? If that is the case then yes, the diode might help, but if the diode is just electrically noisy then it may not be a cure all. You could use unregulated battery voltage to feed the relay instead.

The white stripe on the diode indicates the cathode end (negative), I've never heard of a red stripe but they just might be trying to be helpful to mark the other end as positive. Wire the diode following the existing polarity.

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1544976)

The diode idea might work. Depending on the nature of the little spike, a small capacitor across the switch pins might help as well (e.g. a small <1uF non-dielectric). I'd be willing to bet it's the toggle switch rather than relay that's causing the noise, but you could try doing the capacitor thing across one or both.

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 1545058)

Thanks guys! I'll give this a shot today and report back. Will try diode's first since I have those on hand. Does it matter 1amp or 3amp diodes? Guessing 1amp is sufficient for a simple control switch.

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 1544799)

Terrific, Bobo! White it shall be. I knew I could count on you. :rolleyes:

Let me guess, you googled "red wire or white wire" after drinking a 6 pack??? :p

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1545553)

If you're using it as a blocking diode so there will be little current flow (on the switch side of the relay), the 1A should be fine.

I would be wiring it in series with the positive terminal, but from the description it sounds like you plan on using it as a shunt? I'm not sure if that would work, would probably blow a fuse ...

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 1545791)

Stuff online said to wire it across the positive negative, in much the same way that a relay with built in diode would do... but I'll try wiring to just the positive side as cut in first - makes sense that would work.

Thanks! You know your ****

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1545828)

Okay I get it now, it is being used as a snub. In that case wire the diode across the positive/negative terminals of the relay with "reverse" polarity. This will allow the induced current to dissipate more quickly and should eliminate the voltage spike when turning off the lights "off". But you said the problem was when you were turning the lights "on" not "off"?

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 1558522)

Back to the engine...

This is all preliminary, I will have more certain info and pictures to post later in the week

- spun bearings on #4 crank position
- this #4 position usually indicates an oiling problem, as this is the first to not receive oil when insufficient oil flow occurs
- unclear yet if lower block is salvageable / how much damage
- heads are unusual situation... the fasteners involved with VVEL have tool marks on them indicating that they have been wrenched on... Nissan strongly advises to never adjust these as it may be catastrophic

... more to come