Will do, and I appreciate the support. Right now, there is slight play in the pedal. I'll have a chance to look more closely after work/trying the MC trick.

Update 6/21... still no luck bleeding the clutch.

One of my buddies who works at a local (non-nissan) dealership came by last night to give me a hand since my wife is in Jersey for work.

1)I've adjusted both the RJM clutch pedal to 0 AFP and adjusted the master cylinder clevis rod to make sure it's going in squarely/smoothly.
2) I pumped the clutch pedal 3x and held down. Friend loosened the connection at the master cylinder, and did get a bubble out of that. Repeated 2x more, until it stopped bubbling at that connection point.
3) We repeated everything we'd done before, again. Friend under the car at the bleeder valve, me pumping up the pedal (moderate speed so as not to froth the fluid and introduce bubbles), holding down at the end, he closes the valve. Regardless of what we did, we were still getting air bubbles out. We've checked all visible fittings/connections, and everything is tightened.

It almost seems like air is being reintroduced to the system somewhere. This is with a brand new master cylinder (oem) and a zspeed HD CSC. We've gone through the Zspeed procedure. We've gone through the FSM procedure. At best right now I have an incredibly notchy series of shifts (it did improve enough that I can get into gear - reverse is still a complete crap shoot) and side note, the midweight z1 flywheel sounds like a frigging tractor! :eek: I was expecting louder, but this is pretty crazy.

I'm pretty much ready to throw in the towel at this point, have it towed to RT Tuning and see what they can come up with. It's beyond my skill set at this point.

If you are getting bubbles it sounds like you do have an air leak. I remember from before other folks have had issues with the bleeder. Call Joe a Zspeed and see what he says.

Note to self. Before installing. Bench bleed the new master and check the bleeder seat.

When you mounted the CSC, was the bleeder hose at the top of the CSC. If not, you will never get all the air out. I looked at the picture of it
and it may not be possible to get it wrong but I figured I would ask. I can see inside your tranny bell housing picture. Wish I could.

Fortunately the bleeder hose comes "pre installed" so there's no real way to screw that up ;) I guess you could put the kit in backwards, but the hose would never reach through the rubber housing. I installed as pictured in the DIY, that part I'm certain is done correctly.

On old school type hydraulic clutches; You loosen the bleeder screw & have someone mash the clutch & then tighten the bleeder screw...before they let clutch backup.
Unlike brakes-as you pump them up & loosen while someone is holding pedal.

These Z clutch's may be totally different than one's i've done in the past though.
:)

We did try that. Fortunately, I'm tied in with a local Z enthusiast group, and they're giving me a hand this next week! I'll let you know how it goes.

If you know the master is bled, a good option is to just gravity bleed the rest. Fill up the reservoir, open the bleeder valve, and let the fluid push the air out via gravity. As already mentioned, a clear tube can help you see the air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve. Keep an eye on the reservoir and close the bleeder valve after the air bubbles stop and fluid drains smoothly.

:iagree:

I use a Mityvac for all hydraulic bleeding. It does a good job and you do not need a second person pumping pedals and getting confused about the terms "up", "down" or "hold".

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV...ords=MITMV8500

I never have any problem, I always use vac pump.

:iagree:

I have run into problems with a vac pump. Ended up using a pressure bleeder.

Post up here if you still have issues. The last thing to do is adjust the length of the rod going into the Master Cylinder.