Bout time you did a journal.:tup: Nice write up. And thanks for the mentions.:tiphat:

My clutch has started slipping if I accelerate hard, so this is my next project right here. I'm not going to have time to start it this weekend, tiling a shower stall in my bathroom, but going with the Z1 midweight clutch/flywheel setup. This will big the biggest project I've done since my headers, and I'm doing it on ramps/jack stands. Wish me luck!

Glad I got to meet y'all, and thanks so much for letting me join y'all for a run up and down the Dragon. I had a blast and look forward to doing it again next May!

Definitely man, it was great meeting you! Hope to keep up a little better next time :)

I mentioned earlier that I was using a Shift Knob extension. Normally, I'd probably have gone through TWM, but after reading some of the modern horror stories about delayed shipment/poor communication, I decided to find another route. Ended up locating this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Manual...knob+extension

For $13 it was pretty hard to pass up as a test item. Attached a pic of my shift knob + extension installed. It's not very pretty, but for now it does the trick. My plan at the moment is to have my brother make a custom extension, matched to the diameter of the shift knob itself, with 2 small set screws on about halfway up the barrel to hold the shift boot.

Shift knob is about 1 lb. Between that and the TWM short shifter setup I've got, it rows through the gears like butter.

Ordered HD CSC and MC. Planning the clutch work Saturday.

Fast Intentions Long Tube Headers
 

Adding my previous review of Fast Intentions headers here, so I can find it later. Headers were installed in mid December 2017.

Review and commentary (longish post) - A few weeks ago, I picked up a used pair of Long Tube Headers from a guy going TT. They were in good shape, but had obviously been used for a little while. I did a bit of reading and settled on ceramic coating them through Jet-Hot.

I had planned on doing the install myself, taking a weekend on jackstands and hoping for the best, but an acquaintance of mine from a local VQ enthusiast group (henceforth referred to as 'Craig', 'The Great Craig', 'Blessed be the Craig' or 'Craigster') was kind enough to volunteer his work space, complete with a lift. This made a huge difference.

Craig and I had this on the lift probably just after 8:30 am Sunday morning. If you have any interest in installing these and have read any of the DIY guides, you know the basics - remove intakes up top, remove undershroud below, disconnect cats at exhaust, mark your steering knuckle and disconnect, remove existing setup, replace with new setup, profit! This was the basic plan we followed, with none of the usual headaches, and all of the unusual ones.

Our first complication came in removing the intakes, specifically the hoses connected to the valve covers. I'm running Z1 intakes with the Z1 hoses and I will say that Z1 makes an excellent hose; it absolutely seals strongly and we actually broke the plastic connector that mates with the valve cover trying to get the hose off to remove the drivers side intake. Not good. More on this later.

From there, the header removal was pretty straight forward, and by 11:30 we'd removed the heat shields and the bolts/studs fastening the headers on both sides (pour one out for the Craigsters arm hair, destroyed in the line of duty by carefully sharpened AC line brackets and other random clips in the Japanese torture tunnels). Passenger side was relatively easy.

Lunch break and beer!

Steering knuckle was marked and disconnected around 1 and headers were off a couple minutes after that. We took the headers and cats out as a single unit, saving any struggles with the demon bolts. We really had no issue pulling out the drivers side heat shield either, once we were ready to move it as a unit.

Complications 2, 3, and 4 all occurred shortly thereafter, and they were the real time wasters. Complication 2: Fast Intentions requires you to shift some of the studs for the headers, and unfortunately one of the tapped holes on the engine block appears to have been tapped incorrectly. I destroyed a stud trying to thread it back into the block, had to use the double bolt trick to remove it. We were able to use a much shorter bolt in place, and that appears to have done the trick (no exhaust leaks yet - fingers crossed)!

Complication 3: O2 sensor on the passenger side cat did not want to come out. Fine. It was a stupid O2 sensor anyway and it shall be replaced by a better one. Plugged the O2 bung on that side after wasting more time trying to extract it.

Complication 4: The 2012+ 370zs have a factory oil cooler (that is or is not effective depending on who you ask). The Fast Intentions kit has a plate to block off the oil cooler line from one side; but either I missed something in the instructions, or they simply don't provide a solution for the other side where it continues to drain forever. I don't blame them, I probably missed something, but I needed a solution. Autozone was closed (WHY?! WHY ARE YOU NOT OPEN PAST 5 ON SUNDAYS, AUTOZONE?! THIS IS WHEN PEOPLE NEED YOU!) but once again Craig came to the rescue with a rubber cap that we were able to creatively resize with a knife to the appropriate inside diameter. Coolant leak solved, we continued on.

We had new headers on the car relatively quickly, maybe 45 minutes for the reinstall plus the slow time consuming process of tightening all the bolts. Great, finished!

Back to complication 1... the solution for the broken plastic tube was a plastic epoxy. This involved me holding the component in place for about 30 minutes while we waited for it to harden. The good news is it worked. After all of this, started the car!

Annnddd no exhaust leaks!

Sound: I've always dreamed of piloting a fighter jet. Since I was too lazy to join the air force, instead I'll drive a car that sounds like a fighter jet. Sound on this is massive, huge low end rumble. Do not install these headers if you are weak of will, lacking in testicular fortitude, pregnant, lactating, or low in iron. There is definite drone from 2k - 2.5k, the VQ hiss is audible on deceleration, and you will definitely discover whatever pieces of your cabin are loose. Solutions: Gut your cabin for weight reduction (and The Great Craig says to clip those pesky AC lines that make installation of the drivers side headers so annoying while I'm at it), drive at 3k rpms, and never decelerate! It's actually less drone from 2.6k rpms onwards than I had with just the Fast Intentions catback. I'm enjoying it.

Performance: There is a definite boost in low end torque, but since I'm running fairly lean at this point, I'll wait to really test this until I'm tuned.

Update as of 6/11/18: I eventually swapped my unresonated Fast Intentions midpipe for a 12" resonated version, and that cut drone down a lot further. It did reduce my volume outside the car pretty substantially, and there are days when I miss it - but it makes the car a lot more livable for long trips.

Supercharger?
 

So I'm to the point where it's time to plan the next stages of my build. I've made just about all the NA power I can realistically expect to make, and removed every reasonable restriction to flow.

My rules with mods are pretty simple - I can do anything I want, but I have to install it myself. It's a decent balance point, because it prevents me from doing anything too stupid, and continues to enhance my knowledge of my vehicle. Additionally, my Z is a daily driver, so nothing I do should compromise that.

With that in mind, I'm considering Topgunz A2A supercharger kit. I've been through the FI threads once, and I'll have to dig in a few more times to have a really good idea of what I'd be tackling, but I'm fairly certain at some point in the next year, that'll be on my list of purchases.

For any of you out there reading this who have gone FI, is there any wisdom you can pass on to me that you wish you'd known before hand? Components that aren't often listed but that you wish you had purchased? Strange heat shielding that is never mentioned but should be?

BP turbo kit. You can do it yourself. :rock:
If it was my DD, idk if I would tackle it myself.

I did consider the BP turbo kit, and it is still something I debate. Big reason not to: I'd have to remove my long tube headers, and that's a real pain, not something I desire to go through again.

oh thats right, forgot about those.

Since you have long tube headers and you don't want to remove them, going twin turbo is out as any decent kit requires you to use oem or custom manifolds.

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Correct, and my goals don't really align with a need for a TT kit. Since I'm planning to stay daily driven, 500ish whp is more than enough. I do like the elegance of the turbo setups - free power as opposed to belt driven. If I were to seriously consider a turbo, the BP would be at the top of my list.

BP is a good and FI is better imho. You can safely daily 600whp now. I quit driving mine on a daily basis when I started tracking but I do drive it other than just the track. I'm not sure how many miles you put on the Z a year as I have been boosted for just over 4.5 years and 30k miles and the car still runs strong as ever. The secret is no different than being NA, just don't uselessly beat up the car, use good fluids and change them regularly.

I am enjoying your build thread and I had a great time hanging with you and Magen at ZDAYZ.

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We had a great time with you too man!
In your experience, what sets FI apart as the top tier kit?