Dont know why those pictures got turned 90 degrees.

Anyways, since I decided I will stick with the Z, I'll continue upgrading it ofcourse.

The wishlist of 2020 consists of:

- Better suspension, preferably something adaptive. So far I have only found Tein with their EDFC. Any other brands that provide this option?

- Improve cooling: IAT's get high on the nurburgring, so does my water and oil temp. 34 row cooler and stock radiator aren't cutting it and I need to find a way to improve this

- Perhaps methanol, I'm looking for increasing safety measures driving the car on the stock block to make sure all stays in one piece.


Currently getting some paint work done. The hood, front fenders, front bumper and rear bumper are getting a new fresh paint layer.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0ddae558c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ebf760b22a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6b52a8c358.jpg

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You must be using the same camera has BettyZ. :facepalm:

Everything sanded down. Will go for paint on Monday.

I decided not to have the OEM colour scheme on the bumpers, but to keep the blacked out look it will be just magnetic black and matte black accents. Also covered the headlight washer holeshttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6e55034825.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3491ce6bdb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...77f1f36536.jpg

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For cooling I would look at getting Trackspec hood vents. I think he was running a 20% off deal over the holidays. You need to open up your front bumper similar to what Z1 has done with their time attack car. The problem with getting a triple by pass radiator is that you are adding more area that needs to get airflow and to it, and you still have to move that air through and around to the intercooler.

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I have to take the engine out to fix a manifold issue. And whilst i have it out I am considering a light engine build.

- Brian crower sportsman rods with ARP2000 bolts
- Wiseco 95.5mm pistons 9.0 compression
- ARP L19 headstuds
- Cometic MLS headgasket
- New OEM Nissan gasket set
- New rod bearings (do I have to check the numbers on the crank?)


The goal would be to be able to run 13-17 psi without having to be afraid of bending a rod or snapping a piston ring.

Any feedback on the parts list?

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You're good for boost but I think you may consider going 11:1 with the pistons. Tuning has come along quite a bit , I went 10:1 because I was sceptical but I kinda wish in hindsight I had done 10:1. Just a thought because as you have it listed out it's very capable of 17psi safely. The higher compression is a matter of tuning and fuel.

Definitely go for 11:1 compression pistons, but I honestly wouldn't bother with a build unless you have a competent shop nearby that has done these engines in the past, otherwise you will probably be without a car for a while.

Yes, that is exactly what I found out. All the competent shops are full till after summer. I'll try to source an extra engine and build that one.

For now I am working on the exhaust. My FI exhaust is too short because I installed a nismo bumper. So the end tips will be put back about 2 extra inches.

I will also install a butterfly valve bypass before the end mufflers. I didnt want one with an electric motor, so I went with a boost pressure actuator which opens at 4 psi.

I'd like to regulate the air pressure to the actuators so that I can also drive the car more quietly. Prefferably electric with a switch in the car. Any ideas for some kind of open/closed switch which I can connect the vacuum lines to?

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Car is ready to hit the roads again. Unfortunately all events are cancelled due to covid-19 till June here.

But anyways, in the mean time I fixed the exhaust manifold leak and upgraded the fuel system to the Specialtyz Flexfuel kit. Then my Aeromotive 340lph pump came short and I switched to a Walbro 450.

Did 2 revisions with Seb on different ethanol levels: E40, E60 and E80. We dont have ethanol at the gas station here, so I bought 300 individual 32oz bottles to start with..

Got to say car is a beast on ethanol. The difference in ignition timing is huge and the car feels much much happier running corn. We stopped around 12 psi, I feel on stock block this is about as far as I want to go.

I did 621 engine hp on the dyno (~520 wheel) and expect to be well over 700 now (~600 wheel).

Oh and the exhaust is also finished, the butterfly valves open at 6psi. Love the sound :-)


https://youtu.be/XXPMCpOcSjM

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I pushed the limits...and found them at 13 psi. Last weekend a rod came through the side of my engine.

For 18.000 miles i have been happily boosting. Regularly on 12-13 psi, and lately also on ethanol. I take care of it well, but also drive the car on trackdays or highway runs.

It has seen some high coolant temps on the nurburgring, or a boost spike to 14psi under cold weather conditions. Always held up quite well until my engine became noisy around 2.000 miles ago. It would trigger the knock sensors to pull timing. Over time i could see the engine becoming noisier every 300km or so on my data logs. Not just under WOT but also under low load conditions the knock sensor would be triggered.

I thought it might be a glitch in the ecutek software, there is a known problem with that. But afterwards it probably was the start of rod knock. Im tuned by a very experienced tuner and knew that i was pushing the limits of the stock block.

So after reading so much about "safe boost levels" its now my time to come to a conclusion. I guess 12-13 psi is what can go well for a long time. Some people baby the car, others drive the living sh*t out lf it. Some drive 3.000 miles a year and others 10.000. In the end it can go well for a very long time - but everything has its limits sooner or later.

I have a spare 15.000 miles 2017 engine that i will put in for now.. Hope to be back on the road soon!


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Sorry to hear, man. Hope the new block works out well.

Bummer! :shakes head:

Will you be doing a built block in the future?

Thnx guys. I am in the middle of considering the built engine. The engines are getting cheaper here but are still around 5k to 7k eur and i quite liked the power level i was at.

Lets see, maybe a nice winter project some time.

I did flirt with a R35 yesterday to make up my mind, but they dont give me the manual,raw and upsweeping driving experience like a boosted Z does. And theres nothing much in the price range of 50-70k that i would rather drive.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f4b2a449ec.jpg

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There she is. 2017 Nismo engine with 15k miles. Going to put her in over the next few weeks.

Any tips on things paying extra attention to regarding cleaning debris from the oil system? I ordered like 12 cans of brake cleaner and have an air compressor as well.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6b27579942.jpg

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Little update:

Took the old motor apart. The rod snapped just below the piston pin.

I am now running the new 2018 Nismo engine. It feels like a smoother engine, it had just 9k miles on it when i bought it.

Some things that have changed for me:

1) i have no more knock in low rpm like <4000 like i had with the old engine

2) my tune now has a boost ramp up to reduce torque in lower rpm's. I have 6 psi till 4500 and after that it ramps up to my desired psi level (9 or 12).

Took the car to the dyno last weekend, its a german Dynokraft (similar to US Mustang dyno). I hit 580whp on E70 and with 12.5 psi boost. Happy with the outcome and trying to keep it in one piece now :-)

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