AEM intake is a really involved install for an intake. it's not listed for use for models later than like 2013. The only hiccups I ran into was some interference between the DRLs and the filter. I just squished the filter a little. the Etune MAF adjusters seem to work great.

It does require you to remove both front wheels and the front strut tower brace. and permenantly remove the washer fluid bottle and install a smaller one in a different location.

http://i.imgur.com/wFQIDxV.jpg

Got some Tint done at some point. 5 on the rears 30 on the fronts.

http://i.imgur.com/7Hvh3wf.jpg

CF diffuser Installed
http://i.imgur.com/UieYTwT.jpg

I had been pleasantly suprised by the Quality of EVO-R Carbon. A little less impressed with the rear diffuser. Fit wasn't great, some Ugly sheet metal screws were supplied to mount it and a tube of black silicone to glue it if the screws weren't desired.

Only problem with this is I had to stretch it wider to get it to fit. So I had to use the screws on the bottom side to get it on. I wasn't crazy about gluing anything to my paint either. Livin La Vida Loca I guess

can you make some clips of the exhaust? looking good

i made this video.


It mic quality is garbage (static) but there is no wind at least. I used a remote mic set up closer to the exhaust. The cold start at the beginning is just the go pro built in mic. the rest of the video is the set up shown at the end.

I tried to drive both casually and agressive to give you an idea.

I Live in CA but I never have to smog because of the county I live in so I went catless. I havent got to posting that yet. I have a lot more to post.
Waiting for a sunny weekend To record the catless tone. it is MUCH MUCH deeper sounding. I rated catted a 7/10. with Z1 test pipes its a solid 11/10

Right after the intake I bought some Z1 test pipes off Craigs List, I dont usually buy used parts, but i figured test pipes couldn't really go wrong. Ordered new gaskets from Berk.


http://i.imgur.com/miCZ2sM.jpg


Lost the original images some how. only have this trash.

I couldn't get the holes to line up on the cross brace for the cats. So i just took it out, i figured a lot of the other test pipes don't use it. I assume it's mainly for supporting the weight of the cats. I threw them on the scale IIRC the test pipes were a 19 lbs weight reduction and the catback was around a 48 lbs reduction?

anyone else have to use a monstrosity of an assembly of extentions and BIG effing breaker bar to loosen the bolts to remove their cats?

Mine backed out the studs instead of loosening the nuts. That was after soaking them in wd and trying the map gas torch.

Now that my exhaust was nice and loud, I really had a problem with the impotent stock stereo. I started doing research and saw a few posts where people placed a subbox between the strut brace and divider wall. I just couldn't help myself, ended up going super hard on a new stereo.

I molded a custom Sub Box out of carbon Fiber, and Skinned the MDF with Carbon.

Here's the summary:

http://i.imgur.com/bDYd4La.png

Pioneer AVH-5800bhs (I think, its from memory)
2x Flo 4ga wiring kit
3x Kabel Direkt RCA
12ga sky high audio OFC speaker wire
10ga sky high audio OFC speaker wire(for subs)
2x Skar audio MA-8 Subs
Skar Audio SPX-65c Component Set
Skar Audio TX4 $' 3 way speakers
Skar Audio LP-1000 Monoblock
Skar Audio LP-80 4 channel
Kicker 2x4ga grounding block
Plastic Speaker and tweeter adapters from amazon.
Fir tree zip ties to secure wires
Dynamat lite. (30% the weight 70% the performance of OG)
AVH-x parking brake bypass
Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control retention


I also bought a 2011+ usb retention harness adapter. It wasn't right. i only needed a MiniUSB-F to USB-M adapter

Also a lot of CF fabric, Resin, 3M drop cloth plastic, tape, disposable mixing cups, carbon sheers, mold release spray, oh and a Metra stereo dash/harness kit.

The awesom part of that was the EVO-R CF bezel is molded to fit this and not the stock Bezel.

I wired everything and installed in direction of current flow I suppose. First 2x 4ga hot leads.
There was this nice space between the battery and box for the ANL fuse blocks

http://i.imgur.com/zEoUxOy.jpg

Both Wires In.

http://i.imgur.com/80vTpXI.jpg

I could have used a single 0 gauge but i like to keep it seperate and color code everything so make diagnosing problems simpler in the future.

I won't go into detail about the power wire routing, I used the same boot everyone does. there are a ton of threads. I pulled up the floor molding and routed it under the carpet with some distance, so i could rout the speaker wire through the holes in the clips and keep some distance between them.

It was like christmas

http://i.imgur.com/sv1vq27.jpg

I spent many hours, getting the wire routing perfect and secured at all points. I fit the speaker amp into the recess in the right foam piece here, and cut a recess into the left foam piece using a sharp kitchen knife (non serrated). Also Dynamtted the whole trunk area.
http://i.imgur.com/6SDSdv0.jpg

Bettter View of sub amp
http://i.imgur.com/2uRfRSY.jpg

Component set woofers, new vs Stock
http://i.imgur.com/D6I60Fc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qFtnkt1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SZL3BH5.jpg

Ran new 12ga wiring from the amp in the back to the doors. Mounted the crossovers under the dash with industrial strength adhesive velcro. Ran the wiring through the door plugs and grommets

http://i.imgur.com/Hfhhyku.jpg

Amazing most of this plug is unused. seams like it would be cheaper to use a smaller one.

Door Speakers installed with adapters. the adapters were built in a way that left a lot of holes in the sides of them, they wouldn't seal to the door at all. I patched them all up with Silicone and electrical tape.

http://i.imgur.com/o6C9QqD.jpg