My screwdrivers disappear like that too. In my case I eventually find them scattered around the house. My wife just leaves things where they are when she is through using them. Apparently that is a life-long intractible habit :shakes head:

The local Home Depot doesn't stock anything other than 14.5" wide styrofoam. :( And no 22.5" wide double-faced fiberglass. :(

Looks like my three choices are:
1) Cut the styrofoam I have to 22.5" lengths and install "sideways." No protective gear required. Messy when cutting. Available locally. R is only 3/sheet (but there's room for up to 5 layers).
2) Blow in some cellulose. Very messy when installing. Face mask and goggles required in a hot attic. Will be renting equipment, so some time constraints. R 10-15.
3) Use single-faced fiberglass. Protective gear required in a hot environment. I hate fiberglass - I've been exposed several times and it's not fun. R about 15.

Unless someone has a better idea* for insulating my ceiling, I'll try cutting the styrofoam first and see how it goes.

* I would prefer something that doesn't require a lot of protective gear (it gets hot in a S AR attic), can be purchased locally (the biggest problem), and is reasonably cheap. Greater R values are better but it's just a garage.

I had to order my insulation and have it shipped to store. HD, Lowes and Menards all dont keep much stock of it in stores, at least near me.
Unloaded it today actually.
https://i.imgur.com/zMP4bPRl.jpg


Edit* I wonder if something like a foam wire cutter would help speed the cutting and not make a large mess. Just a passing thought.

I didnt watch this vid so if it is shite, sorry. :icon17:

I did some permanent rewiring on the workbench. Bought electrical boxes, 14 ga THHN stranded wire (a LOT easier to work with than solid wire/Romex), wire cover molding, and crimp-on fork lugs. Wired up so there is a duplex switch in one box. From that box, the wiring goes through the molding to 2 duplex receptacles controlled by one switch and 2 LED lights controlled by the other switch. All mounted under the cabinets. A lot like the temporary wiring but more spread out now (and safer).

Found a small laptop (notebook?) computer. Has WinXP on it. Cleared a bunch of crap off the HDD and copied some of my favorite working-on-cars music over. Level of headphone jack on the laptop is real low and won't drive the powered speakers to full volume so I have it jury-rigged into the stereo and then using the stereo headphone jack to drive the speakers. Now I can move the CD changer back inside.

Put the new bench to good use de-rusting some tools for a buddy of mine. Most of them only required an overnight soak in vinegar but there was a big C-clamp that took two days and a lot of scrubbing with a wire brush. Started the second batch of tools this afternoon. While I had the chemicals out, I de-rusted an axe head that I had laying around.

Interesting. That looks like it would be faster and a LOT less messy than cutting with a saw. For what I'm doing, it doesn't have to make a perfectly straight cut so I should be able to rig something up that works "good enough." Not sure where I'd get Nichrome wire around here but I will do some looking around. Thanks. :tiphat:

Home Depot and Lowes only carry so much at the stores. You have to go on line to order what you need if the stores don't have it. At Home Depot. Order on line and have it shipped to the store. You don't pay for shipping that way.

yep. Shipped to store for free. Took a couple weeks to hit my local store from time of ordering.

That’s how I get deals on my Ridgid Tools, as they offer things & prices online that aren’t available in stores :ugh2:
Just be sure & DropChit to proper store :icon17:
Had to drive about 45 minutes out the way one afternoon :wtf2:

I've seen people order Monday morning, and it would be on Tuesday night's trailer. And I would receive it Wednesday morning. Home Depot sends out an e-mail when it is shipped. I have people calling, and asking when they can pick it up. And I haven't even seen it yet. :icon14:

I've made a little bit more progress on rehabilitating the garage.

Whoever installed the drywall on the ceiling did a piss-poor job of hitting the rafters with the nails. The carpenter and I screwed some painted 1x4s along the rafters to hold up the unsupported drywall.

I found my screwdrivers! :) Looking for something else and stumbled upon them. I need to take a file to several of them. Three of them ended up in the scrap metal bin.

Started gutting the computer cabinet. Removed all the cables, the AC distribution panel, and the power supplies. All that's left is the very heavy magnetic tape drive (also found the boot tape in the bottom of the cabinet). I need to find someone with a strong back to pull the drive. Once the drive is out, I can install some shelves and have a nice storage cabinet on casters. :)

Cleared out a bunch of old oil, filters, PS fluid, ATF, etc.

Still haven't found a good solution to insulating the ceiling locally. When I'm not quite so sore, I plan on cutting the styrofoam I have to fit between rafters until I can figure something out. Did a little experimenting with the cutting tools I have and found out a hacksaw blade cuts well, makes minimal mess, and is fairly easy to cut a straight line with.

What about using that Mylar-esque insulation sheeting?

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If you're talking about the "shiny bubblewrap", I haven't seen any of it in this area.

Before this is over, I'll probably have to order something.

Sub'd for pics when it's done. :tup:

I need to start figuring out my garage. Hopefully the pics will give me some ideas. The challenge I have is that there are only 2 outlets in the entire garage, one runs the garage door and the other has the fridge & small freezer on it. I need to run 50A out for the compressor.... :ugh:

Get an electrician. Challenge solved lol.

My guy put 15 outlets on two distinct circuits into my garage.

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If you are going to order stuff go to a real lumber yard/building center not Home depot/lowes/menards. You can get panels and batts of any width and most any r value.

I would go with r-38 faced batts then blow 4-6" of cellulose to cover all the gaps. Might be a bit overkill in the south but it will be well sealed to keep the A/C in. Don't forget the rafter vents before you insulate or hang the lid for proper venting