HELP!! One side Stock Cats and One side aftermarket Cats. Help!
 

Hello 370z members,

Last night, I decided to install my resonated test pipes. Everything went smooth until I got to the last TOP DEMON BOLT on the driver side, but is stripped.. unless I could somehow manage to put the socket Flat into the bolt and screw it out, but then with the long extension, it always flexes and push the socket out of the bolt position. After spending 4 hours on that one single BOLT, I decided to put everything back on the driver side and bring it to the shop, and just install the test pipes on my passenger since everything is out already. My passenger catalyst is shot the O2 Sensor bung got stuck on the O2 sensor while I was taking it out. So my problem is Driver side has stock Cats. And my Passenger side has Resonated Test Pipes. Is it okay for me to drive about 200 miles like that? The 370z is my only car and I need to get to work/school. Both of my O2 sensors are not on the car right now, I'm currently using the bolt that came with the test pipes to cover up the O2 Sensor hole.

Thank you in advance!

PS: installing test pipe is an easy task, it's just one stupid bolt with no room to work with!:bowrofl:

I used a 1/2" impact swiviel and socket with a 24" breaker bar and whatever extensions were needed.

It also helps to have a second set of hands under the car to make sure you are seated on the bolt properly. Oh and a fucton of PB blaster :tup:

I had to basically hold/make sure the socket was properly seated when doing the top bolts on cats. Sounds like you messed up pretty badly

the top half of the bolt is stripped but if it is seated flat on. it's still fine, but with the long as extension and all it's almost impossible to have the socket flat on... or whenever i do have it flat on, as soon as I put some force on the rachet, the socket budges out.. "Due to the long a** extension.

Although it's messed up. the shop can still handle this right? I don't really care what they do to the OEM cats. Cut it. or whatever. I just wanna get it done!

3/8" socket, extensions etc. Isnthe going to cut it.

I'm sure the shop it just torch it off

well lesson learned... haha
these darn 3/8 extensions are pretty flexible when it comes to a lot of torque needed to remove the bolt...

Any mechanic shop would be able to torch it off if needed to be right? or would I need to bring it to the muffler shop.

I'd call around, tell them your issue and pick the shop that sounds like they can handle it

Thanks bud, you've been a lot of help :)
I'll do that on Monday. But for the mean while is it okay for me to use the car though? although one side is running rich..

I'm not comfortable saying one way or the other.

And you're welcome :tiphat:

It will seat properly if you have someone below making sure it's 100% on there. From up top, the guys that were in charge of the breaker bar thought it was on there fully and it was way off from down below and that's where I came in as physically put the socket fully on the bolt. Get another guy and see if you can't do that. You don't really have much else to lose at this point

1/2 inch extensions, 1/2 inch swivel and three foot breaker bar will get it done. If you can get the socket seated give it a swift push forward and that bolt will snap making everything smooth sailing from there on. If the top of the head is rounded or stripped, get yourself some Irwin nut/bolt extractors.

I think the car is going to run like crap with one test pipe and one stock cat. The sensor readings are going to be so out of whack between banks. I wouldn't drive it. I'd be shocked if it didn't go into limp mode because it's so confused.

I'm almost to the point that i'ma about to spend a day removing the subframe.. just so I can remove the bolt...

I would soak it in pb blaster and do all of the above before I considered pulling the subframe. Make sure you have a buddy hold the socket on the bolt if it keeps slipping.