our bolt on parts are definitely over price but 15hp is a joke.

I had short ram intakes sucking in hot air, and 2.25" hfc & cat back and dyno'd at 283whp without a tune. For the same dyno the baseline stock numbers are typically around 270whp according to the tuner. The tune got me up to 300whp and 250tq, but generally 295-300whp pull after pull. (fwiw it was winter in FL and about 65* with little to no humidity). those 3 bolt ons cost me about $1700 and $625 for the tune. All in about $2300 and gained about 30whp and 25tq over stock.

I recently upgraded to the stillen intakes and ART Pipes with an E370 and just got a retune a few days ago. In 95* heat (probably higher in the garage) with about 50% humidity I was pulling about 295whp and 245tq consistently. in better conditions i'm sure the numbers would be slightly higher, but nothing to write home about. The important part is knowing everything is optimized as best as possible. This set up cost me about $2500 and the E370 was pre-love with about 2k miles on it. Retail all in everything would be close to $2800 + $600 for a tune totalling about $3400 for 30whp and 25tq. This is definitely a steep price to pay. but you also have to factor in how amazing and unique these mods sound in their own right. completely sets you apart from every other car on the road. not to mention the quality of the parts. It is satisfying and relieving you are not putting garbage on such a beautiful car.

do I regret spending all that money on bolt ons instead of jumping strait to FI? no, it is a an ongoing project for almost 2 years now and fun to try out different things and experience different stages of the cars life, also resale helps offset the costs of new things but at the end of the day if you love driving and looking at your car - the money is worth it and you can always make more and add more mods later down the line.

If i lived in high elevation above 3k i wouldnt mod it all unless going forced induction. If your manual do the 4.08 gears and your set and much cheaper than doing the bolt ons. Ltr

Heck my DD RCSB Sierra w/5.3 and under $1k in mods can cut low 14's... (intake, headers, tune) throw a converter in and thats 370Z territory... just sayin...:icon17:

M370 kills your top end. Sell and buy the OEM ported one from z1.

I clicked off a 13.4 with just Gen3's and **** traction in first and was crab walking fighting it to stay in the groove through second. I am hoping this fall to click off maybe a high 12 with the new exhaust and tune. If you get a nismo don't expect huge gains like the base sports get, you are already 18whp more with a nismo exhaust and tune. Take those 2 away and add in a Fast Intentions and Gen3's with Osiris and you will get the same power as a Base with identical mods. I am really hoping to go from 273whp base to around 315-320 with Test pipes, Gen3's, tomie y & y-back with tune this Friday. Fingers crossed for about a 40whp gain for $3k.

What about the aftermarket pulley? nobody using them or modified manifold?

If I had another 2500, I'd buy a helmet and go take HPDE sessions. That would make a big performance improvement.

you can also go get a junkyard car at an auction and drop an LS1 in it for what my insurance costs per year.... I wouldnt daily drive that hunk of junk though.

Regardless. Our aftermarket is over priced and the gains in terms of hp per $ hurt. We were not discussing initial purchase price or engine swaps etc.

My UPREV got me 301 whp and 256 tq

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/m...no-1-24-14.jpg

I'm running both, along with CBE, LTH's, G3's, Uprev tune, and 4.08's. The Motordyne manifold is great for mid-range torque and the Pulleys give you a nice pull throughout the entire RPM range...especially when used with an aluminum flywheel:tup:

IMO the NA mods give so little bang for the buck they are more for looks and sound then performance. You'll drop 6k+ in just parts and may not even add 50whp. K&N drop in air filters, test pipes, and axle back are the most cost effective modifications.

But after doing a couple HPDE events I really believe money is best spent on upgrading the nut in between the seat and the steering wheel.

316 whp and 249wtq @ 7.7k rpm. Was 318whp at 8k, but I didn't feel comfortable leaving the redline that high so I had him knock it back to 7.7k. I factory baselined at 273. Gen3 CAI / Z1 test pipes / Tomie y-pipe / Tomie y-back. Will have a video up on youtube of the dyno run. This was on a DynoJet.

I also took a dB meter with me just out of curiosity, I measured my friends 350z with test pipes and injen exhaust, he hit 106dB from about 20' away. I measured mine the same way and at ~4k rpm I went over 130dB and I turned away and ran back. For almost an hour my left ear hurt like a bastard since that was the one that turned into it as I turned around really quickly. Lol Even the tuner was' "that is a loud exhaust, um yeah, increadibly loud". After the first pull he grabbed ear muffs off the wall.

Got CBE coming...considering test pipes and the drop ins you recommended. At what point do u require a tune? (Car doesn't have 2k miles on it yet, so warranty considerations). Also, I've seen folks who have test pipes and the have the check engine light on....does this always happen with test pipes? And with test pipes, my state requires an inspection....guessing I would need to see a shop that understands the Z so I don't fail. Am I off the mark?