Garage Line, eBay, OBX header, custom CBE, dyno results.
 

Garage line sold me a "prototype" LTH that's identical to the eBay OBX header and 99% like a Fast Intentions LTH. The only difference really is the scavenging star in the FI collector.

I installed these headers after wrapping with DEI titanium wrap and the fitment was perfect. The bottom center nut is hard to get on with where the pipes are but let's face it, LTH's are a PITA to install!

First thing I noticed on start up was the rasp! It was horrible! So I welded in some Helmholtz resonators in the X pipe right where the X pipe bolts to the header. This amazingly cut about 90% of the rasp but also if I had to guess cut about 20 decibels of volume which I didn't like.

Next I cut off my mufflers and straight piped them. The muffler I had, had the pipes 90 degree bend into the mufflers then 90 degree bend again out to the tips. I didn't like that flow design plus I wanted my volume back. Now I might have one of the loudest exhausts but just sounds insanely mean with zero rasp and zero drone.

I still have no tune and running rich so power can be made from a tune! I'm just happy the car is rich and not lean. After 6000rpm the AFR drops to 11.9 :confused:. If we target 12.5 AFR maybe, that's going to be some nice added power there.

Peak power was 13hp and 17tq but mid range gained anywhere from 11-17hp and 18-19tq. 293hp 243tq.

I went with the cleanest run but I did make 295hp 244tq.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psadea1f77.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps612c98ba.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps85dffdf0.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps65d85e9b.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps3096e23d.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psa0643479.jpg

Impressive, Thumbs up mate :tup:

Pics of your resonators?

Very nice!

Don't judge. My 110v free mig sucks azz! Doesn't penetrate then over penetrates and blows holes so they get thick at times.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps4f21f941.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps3e274304.jpg

any O2 code?

what about quality of welds with the headers?

i have seen short tube headers on ebay for $340 with test pipes and OBX LTH for about the same price

Sound clips! Nice gains! Are you worried about corrosion with the heat wrap? I have heard mixed things, I would have to guess with our coffin tight engine bay little water would get in

What's the dip at 5200? Is it pulling timing there? I can't see why it would, it's got plenty of fuel.

I had one once at about 100 miles or so. I deleted it and it hasn't come back yet but I don't think I've gone another 100 yet.

The header looked great. Better than I could have made. Metal looks thick and strong, tigs are all good with penetration, but I don't know what makes welds fail. With all the CNT TS failing I reenforced the j tube.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psb717c06a.jpg

Planning on dyno time ?

Thanks

No sound clips. I hate youtube clips and stuff, nothing is like it in person for any exhaust and my phone is the last thing I'd use.

This doesn't help...and no, its real 304ss so no worries but my welds that are non SS which I haven't painted yet. I had an invidia down pipe on my 09 and 11 WRX for combined 50k and when I pulled it off to sell it looked very good.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc1d81104.jpg

No idea. Besides the AFR rich, the logs were perfect. The dyno driver, not the tuner logged it. His exact words were the tune is scary good. Timing, MAF, load etc all perfectly straight! The dip happened in all 3 at different spots. We think its dyno hiccups for just that 100 rpm and because the lines after are still on a perfect straight increase.

Yeah, if nothing showed up in the logs and it's on the printout, it's probably dyno weirdness. Now go get a tune and pull some of that fuel back out, there's plenty more power to be made.

How much of a difference do you think the ambient temps made?

Really? I guess maybe 10hp. Timing was 24-25 if that means anything. Not sure what tuned cars shoot for.

With a dyno jet having the correction factor target 75 degrees, none on these printouts. We did hit uncorrected. The numbers were lower but still a gap between the two lines so maybe a few ponies.

Soon.

those look really nice, better quality than what i have seen local welders can do, i think what causes welds failing are them being poor in quality and with exhausts being so close to the ground, i think it might be water that causes it since there is a rapid change in temperature

either way, sick car, id love to hear it

If someone has a nice camera, maybe.

If your car spends any substantial time outside, in humid weather or in the rain/snow I would remove that header wrap. It will trap moisture underneath the wrap and over time will rot out the exhaust. Especially if you get the exhaust super hot.

The spray takes care of that problem completely. Also, newer types of wrap don't have that problem. And if you get the exhaust super hot, wouldn't it evaporate the moisture you're concerned about?

I've seen a few exhausts use the spray, wrap the exhaust properly and still have it happen. It traps the moisture underneath the wrap between the exhaust pipe and the wrap. Then the exhaust gets repeatedly heated up and cooled down which will corrode the metal away in time. Sure, yeah... But new moisture will always find it's way underneath the wrap even if it evaporates old moisture. Personally, if heat was my concern I would have the exhausted coated. It took about 15k-20k miles on the last exhaust I saw it happen to.

Well again I had a wrapped DP and header on my WRX for 50k and 3 years in NE ohio winters and the pipe was perfect after the wrap came off. You can't rot stainless steel. That's why it's called stainless. And that was on a 335hp 400tq WRX that saw a lot more heat than a NA can produce.

Relax, I am sharing my experience mate. And yes, it certainly can. There are different grades of stainless steel. 304 which is the lowest grade may very well stain or rust in environments of high salinity, little oxygen and low circulation. One car I saw it occur on was an 04 STi downpipe. Clearly won't happen to everyone, but it's not impossible. Most race cars I see don't use wrap anyway so I am not a huge believer in it, but that's just my $.02.

I'm fine and I'm sharing too saying you're incorrect. 304 is 100% NOT the lowest grade! It's one of the best right behind 316Ti used for turbo headers and jet engines because 1600*+ can crack 304. Pretty sure you're thinking of 409ss which is right above mild steel. 304 can surface rust but that's because things stick to it and rust. It'd take 1000 years to break all the way through. And here's what I mean, 304ss exhaust with surface rust from who knows what sticking to it...

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...t/IMG_1708.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...t/IMG_0945.jpg

A light polish gets everything off the steel and brings the shine back out. Again it'd take 1000 years and 1000 polishes to get through 16 gauge 304.

And race cars don't drive on the street or use a 370z. The under hood temps of these cars suck along with their oil cooling system. Running an unwrapped header in THIS car is just plan retarded!

The exhaust that rotted was 304 dude. It wasn't a huge hole, but it was big enough to leak. It was an Invidia catless bellmouth downpipe made from 304 stainless steel. 304 definitely doesn't have a super high chromium percentage does it? The exhaust gas temps at the downpipe of a modified STi get pretty damn hot. With constant heating and cooling, tough weather and 2 years it happened. Not making it up... May have a picture somewhere.

That was my DP. Again 50k, wrapped since day one, 3 ohio winters, mint when it came off. 23psi tapering down to 16psi also, so some serious heat was there.

Correct... I've ran header / exhaust wrap in the past without a single issue. It has helped tremendously with rasp on my older exhaust set up. If you wrap and tie strap it properly, you're not going to have problems with corrosion for year round driving.

If I had one complaint at all, it would be that the newer wraps that don't require the spray coating has a tendency to fray on the ends. This can be a b*tch when installing it and getting a tight wrap around the exhaust. I did have to check ever so often under the car to make sure the ends weren't splitting.

A hose clamp or SS wire wrapped or pinching the ends won't let it fray. My first pic shows the SS worm clamp at the ends holding the wrap down.

Which version of the "obx" do you have? the 2nd one looks like it has a better collector design.

OBX Stainless Header 2009+ Nissan 370Z VQ37VHR Long Tube

OBX SS304 1.7" ID Equal Length Header Exhaust Nissan 370Z VQ37VHR

1st.

Not to me it doesn't. You need to separate the cylinders longer than that. That's why LTH make more power than TP. That 2nd one just looks like a header with a test pipe.