Lol, a bit of COD made the time fly by lol.

6MT, that is a question :) the name doesn't help: extra guard (not something like extra flow)

The problem with using a re useable oiled type air filter is that once you use it for any length of time and clean it dirt is transferred to both sides of the air filter during the cleaning process. Which is them sucked into your engine.

I've used re useable air filters for years on motor cycles and even went as far using a degreaser, compressed air and even an ultra sonic cleaner, completely clean the air filter.

No matter what I did or how many times I cleaned the filter, once the filter was dry and shaken over a clean white sheet of paper, dirt would come out.

This led me to switching back to a stock disposable filter element, this gave me confidence that no fine dirt or particles would be sucked into the engine.

Stock disposable air filters also have better filtering ability than the re useable oil type.

That's my concern exactly

The Fram "Extra Guard" filters are still dry paper. No more or less restrictive than any other paper filter on the market. How the op got "restrictive" from that is beyond me. "Extra Guard" is a marketing term used to represent more protection to consumers. Flow rates have nothing to do with it!

Stick with a quality oem paper filter, the minor HP gains using oil type air filters or aftermarket CAI tubes are not really worth pros vs cons.

Cons = oil damage to MAS sensors, high initial cost and replacement cost of oil type air filters, possible dirt transferred during cleaning process, less filtering ability than paper.

Pros = minor HP gains, lifetime use ( if you want to clean and re use a air filter for the life of your vehicle)

1) Stick with a quality oem paper filter, the minor HP gains using oil type air filters or aftermarket CAI tubes are not really worth pros vs cons.

This is pretty much wrong. You can get sizable horsepower gains with drop ins, to say nothing of the cold air intakes available on the market.

2) Cons = oil damage to MAS sensors, high initial cost and replacement cost of oil type air filters, possible dirt transferred during cleaning process, less filtering ability than paper.

These are blown way, way out of proportion. If you were hoping your engine would last 500,000 miles, sorry to break it to you, many other parts of the engine will break down before particulate contamination becomes an issue.

3) Pros = minor HP gains, lifetime use ( if you want to clean and re use a air filter for the life of your vehicle)

Again, are you planning on having the engine last half a million miles? The filter needs to be cleaned very 40-60K miles, if the OP plans on keeping the car more than 120K miles, then yeah you might have to clean it more than once.


I'm not sure why you are even participating in this forum if your view on performance parts for the platform is filled with such disdain that you will suggest that a well established power adder like a cold air intake is inferior to an OEM paper air filter.

Please return to your motorcycles where gains can't be had with such things, because they're already running @ 9.9/10ths from the factory and changing intake components adversely affects the power output. Those viewpoints and observations don't really apply to a comparatively reserved engine like the VQ.

/rant

Also, this website may be more your speed.

:iagree: Spot on...spot on!

I'm planning on keeping the car for as long as I like it lol... Then again, like many others I plan on boosting later on which means I won't need the filters... Good thing about k&n is that they can be easily sold back
More reps to you sh0velMan :tup:

I totally understand.

I also just wanna say, his viewpoints aren't wrong for sport bikes.

If you want a sportbike motor to make its factory horsepower for longer than 20-30k miles, you have to take extra care to keep particulate matter out of the combustion chambers and sludge out of the crankcase. The tolerances are an order of magnitude tighter and the surface area is a LOT smaller. So a 0.01 MM scratch in a cylinder wall is a much greater percentage of your total cylinder wall area than it is on a 3.7L 6.

Scratches are bad on EVERY engine, but it takes a **** ton more of those scratches before you can even measure a difference in sealing performance with laboratory gear, much less a measurable difference on a dyno or in fuel economy, when compared to that of a 0.75-1.3L motorcycle engine.

Also, "so called" cold air intakes for sport-bikes (or any motorcycle with a tuned airbox) add comparatively microscopic gains or even power LOSS, sticking with the stock air box with a good paper filter is almost always the smarter route.

So he's right...and he's wrong. :)

Just found this

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles/images/kn-v-oem-3.jpg

K&N Air Filter Review - Debunking the Myths (and why OEM is better)

Yeah, I've seen that graph before.

It's not news to me that a single layer oiled cloth filter doesn't filter as well as a 2mm thick paper filter, I never said they filtered better, I said they flowed freer. :)

is the amount of dirt that passes through is negligible? I'm thinking it is impossible to avoid getting dust in the intakes anyway, something passes through eventually

I just don't feel like the pass through is enough to matter in practical terms.

If you did a 250k mile test in a lab, in a dust storm, then yeah, I think it'd show a big difference.

Do you live in the desert? If you do, maybe paper filters are the way to go, seriously.

If you don't, go with K&N and just check them for accumulation when you do your oil or whatever.