thoughts on aem eti vs stillen gen3
 

Hi I'm looking to start modifying my z and it's come down between the aem eti or stillen gen 3 intakes. In searching the forum I haven't found much about the aem etis so I was wondering if anyone had experience with them or what you thought. The only thing I've found online was motoiq tested the aems and netted 15 hp on a mustang dyno. Also I was wondering if it'd make a difference tuning since on the aem the maf readings are being corrected. Thanks in advance for your feedback

The G3's sit in a good place, and from my understanding, the AEM MAF sensor thing is BS...

Thanks for your input. I agree that the stillens are the top dog. The only thing that has me wondering is motoiq tested both at different times and got 9 hp bumper on 12 hp with it off on the stillen and they got 15 on the aem. I have no clue if this is credible or what that deal is its just surprising. So I started this thread to see if there is anyone who owns the system and would be willing to vouch for it. If not I guess I'll go the tried and true route

The AEM's are in a better place, not gonna lie, but I don't like where they are at the same time...
I HAVE heard of people (I know them personally) that have had water get into their intakes... Nothing major, but they had to clean the MAFs, and let the intake system dry...


Also, you have to put a smaller windshield bottle... I like my windshield bottle, lol

I wouldn't worry about posting numbers with the bumper off... Do you drive the car with the bumper off? No, so it only makes for a pretty number... I may be a little biased, but i say go with the Gen III's, a lot of people have them, and they have worked out just fine. The cutting is very minor and easy to do, and you do not have to change your windshield washer tank. As for water getting sucked up, with the gen III's it is nearly impossible, and if it was i would have done it already. I live in Maine, and it gets very wet here... Huge puddles everywhere, i have not had an issue so far. GO FOR THE GIII's!!!!!!!!!

:iagree:

/endthread


LOL

The AEM's make me cautious because why do we need to "trick" the ECU? Isn't that the point of getting a tune is adjusting the ECU to your mods... Oh well. Not to mention they use the same filter placement as the Injens in the spaces in front of the wheels which get no Direct airflow unless you make modifications. So you're sticking them in a closet without access to free air... Kinda shooting yourself in the foot imho.

As for the Stillen Gen III's, they do make good power, slightly more difficult to install due to needing to expand the air duct in the front dam. But it's not any different than having to swap washer fluid reservoirs for the Injen/AEM so it's 6 to one, half a dozen to another. :ugh2:

The biggest problem with the stillens is Cost. $500 for the set, then if you wanna get them powder coated that only adds to it...



But don't forget there are other options out there. Akuma, Takeda, and a few other vendors are bringing their intakes online here soon. So if you're still debating, it might help you to take a gander over in their directions.

With the Takeda it's the same piping as a Stillen, so Plus. But it's only a Single filter both TB's draw from, to me personally thats a push at best, if not a minus. But to each unto their own...

With the Akuma's, they are a single pipe design, with similar filter placement as the Stillens. Both use a K&N oiled filter so thats up to the user if they want that or a Dry filter. I'll most likely be going dry filter when I get my intakes.


:tiphat:

The Takedas are a dumb design IMO. If you need a new filter, you're f'd

I thought the point of that filter is that it's washable. For the position I don't see how anything can damage the filter without severely damaging your front bumper as well, in which case you've probably got bigger issues.

I'm not a fan of it personally, but it's not without it's reasoning.

:iagree: It's in the same place as stillens, but I'm just wondering how it would work with the two intakes drawing through the same filter, if there isn't some internal divider inside, I wonder how the different banks pulsing might affect the actual "intake" of air on both sides. Would they combat each other hindering performance?

I've wondered about that myself however not having to modify your car is a very nice selling point. In the end I think it's up to personal preference. They both have pros and cons. I think the g3s use and oiled filter which I have heard (no first hand exp) is a small hassle to deal with when its time to change it out.

Then again, no idea how often you really need to change out the filters.

Well I believe with the Takeda's as well, as with any intake with a pipe OD of more than 1.5" you have to expand the front damn holes. So that's why they're all relatively the same about of labor required.

Yes, I believe the Takeda use a Dry filter.

The Oiled filters only need to be cleaned (depending on climate/use) every 20k, or more. When I was in AZ due to all the dust, I had my K&N drop ins cleaned every oil change, it was just easier to do since the hood was open anyways. :icon17: Now that I'm not in AZ anymore, I haven't cleaned them since... Which I really need to do. But it's not worth the cost of the re-oiling kit. When I get the intakes I want, I'll be getting dry filters for them regardless of if they come with K&N's or not.

The takedas were designed specifically so that no body work needs to be done. Well, from what I've read anyway since I don't have them. I'm just waiting to see if one of these pops up for sale, I'm in no hurry for them.

No cutting, then I'd like to see a pic of the silicone section that goes through the opening if it flexes at all to accommodate the small gap... :icon08:

I totally agree with this statement. I have had an AEM CAI installed for about three months and just removed it yesterday as I could not get it to work without the check engine light coming on and having problems with air flow. There was quite a bit of hesitation during shift changes and the engine would periodically shut down when under load going up hill. After discussing the issue with Seb at SpecialtyZ, he recommended I remove the CAI and replace it with the OEM set up and get K&N drop in filters since I'm getting a tune anyway and with the mods I have the horsepower loss is minimal and the vehicle will perform better. A very expensive lesson for me.:mad: As the saying goes "keep it simple...stupid!" Got Z1 silicone post-MAF intake hose on the way as well. This setup has been suggested by many on the forum.

Might be too late to do so, but I wonder if you still had the AEM's on, and then got a tune With them, if it would solve some of the issues?

Yup, that was what I was holding out for, but the tuner suggest I switch it out because the MAFS is always trying to adjust the ECU with AEM's setup. He suggested gen 3s if I felt the need to have an aftermarket CAI. I think it the whole law of diminishing returns as you add mods related airflow should equal thing out since I have ART pipes and a better flowing CBE. The whp loss should be no more than 5. It's more about peace of mind at this point for me. I don't track, but I want my car to perform the way it looks!!!

I think the G3'a are also the best because intakes like the AEMs and Takedas have oversized piping that gets smaller at the MAFs... Which creates choppy air, not smooth airflow

I have no issues with my AEM's. I think the ETI module works. There was no discernible difference between my untuned and tuned numbers. Car got tuned, dyno'd it in similar conditions as my original run and it was the same result. AFR's were within .3 of each other, 9 months apart, and at a different elevation (still a dynojet). I made decent gains on a modified car, but it was including pulleys. 16whp combined gains, I would guesstimate 8-10whp above 6500rpm came from the intakes. The intakes don't neck down at the MAF to "trick" the MAF readings, it stays the same diameter. I don't feel the intake location is a problem. It does not receive direct airflow, but it is not a sealed space, and I have not sucked up any water, even after washes or torrential rains. They come in polished or powder coated gunmetal for the same price and can usually be found for at least $100 cheaper than the G3's.

In my opinion, there is enough evidence to say that the difference after tuning between CAI's is minimal. Lastly, because the ETI modules are still functioning after tuning, the ECU is not going to try and revert what tuning changes were made to the AFR's. I don't know how much of an issue, if at all, but some cars do this on their own.

I have the same without tune and same results. I am completely happy with aem. I only had one instance of moisture right after I installed the. Since then nothing. I didn't get a CEL until I put my catback with test pipes. Even then it was an air fuel mix error and it actually regulated the idle so I didn't clear it the second time it came on. I would log it to see but the CEL isn't always a bad thing. I think it's smart to include a self regulating module that adjusts on its own and helps the car run right. That's why I went wit aem...that and powder coat out of the box.

Hi SS, I have been waiting for you to weigh in as you are a fan of AEM. This really was the point I wanted to make. Each Z has its own personality and from everything I have read pretty much shows that if you get a tune the gains with most CAI are on the upper end of the RPM range and are within a few hp of each other.

I guess if it is about the biggest and best numbers, then be prepared to spend some time and money getting to know your Z...she like a woman. No offense ladies!

The intakes and pulley's were by far best bang for buck improvement I made to the car. Unfortunately, I have to remove both for my twin supercharger upgrade... I have a lot of info my my sig link about it as well. Indeed, these cars do have their own temperments. I'm happy mine worked as well as it did before I decided to do my new project. Nearly every mod I did was never considered the most popular option, some controversial, but my gains definitely show. I made about 50whp over my baseline, I can't complain. Researching is really key, do your homework before opening the wallet. Everyone wants to vouch for a product that works great for them. Cheers to that, spread the word on products that perform.

enter, injen intakes.... like aem, without all the hesitation/tricking computer bs. only water issues i had is when i parked my car on a downhill slope in about 4 hours of rain, car just sputtered a little. let it sit overnight and it was fine. no intake has ever "hydrolocked" a 370z. ever.... even tho that phrase gets tossed around on this site like a $2 whore.

the only thing i don't like about stillens, is they are kinda ugly imo. why do they have a random coupler in the middle of the intake?? BUT, u can't argue with the great track record that intake has had.

if i had to get an intake right now, it would be akumas. simply the sharpest looking intake available at the moment.

they will all perform within 3-4 hp of each other, so differences are negligable. just boils down to opinion.

Also I live at 7000 feet above sea level. I know on stock Toyotas the mafs read low and are fuel trims arent normal as a result of the elevation. I know my power here is lower and that gains fron anything will not be as great. Im jusy wondering if these systems will function properly at my elevation. Thanks

I'll have something neat for you guys in the next week or so :)

A few members already got the inside scoop but I don't want to leak all the info just yet!

Very small teaser: Our intakes 1) work on the stock tune via a tuning insert by the MAF, 2) with the tuning insert removed you run a full 2.75" piping, this requires a tune or recalibration of the MAF, 3) if you decide to go with our TT kit in the future, the intakes work in conjunction with our IC piping! so you won't have to try to get rid of your intakes or sell them!

!Come check out the Akuma Spec Rev3 Intake!

-The Rev 3's are made from 6061 aluminum and include nomex couplers, K&N Oiled Filters and include all necessary hardware.
-They are made for ease of installation and removing with as little work as possible
-K&N Filters with angled inlets for optimal fitment
-12-14whp increase can be expected using just the intakes!
-More can be expected with proper cat back exhausts!
-20whp increase with an invidia catback and the AKUMA Rev 3 intakes!
***These intakes require tuning but for anyone with an Accessport or an Up-Rev we can provide the proper info to make the changes yourself***

We have multiple threads with plenty of info, commentary, and dyno sheet on these intakes in the link below
-http://www.the370z.com/group-buys/58954-akuma-motorports-rev3-intakes.html
-http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaust/55275-akuma-motorports-370z-intake-post1771764.html#post1771764

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC_0148.jpg

Brushed Aluminum Installed

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/DSC_0164.jpg

SS, did you by any chance compare IAT readings via an OBDII reader before and after the AEM install?

I haven't had any hestiation with my aem but has been causing random misfire code and cold weather seems to trigger it more often.

The electronics on it probably are bull so I plan on eventually having it bypassed. But it same diameter throughout so haven't done it , plus I may just wait until tune.

I didn't get a before, but IAT's were within 10 degrees of ambient when in motion.

it's summer here in Australia and yesterday the car drove so badly it was not possible to overtake. i'm getting massive heatsoak issues - 50-60*C while rolling at 70kmh is ridiculous.

Thing is, the right hand side is the side the ECU reads IAT from and this happens to be the side with the power steering cooler lines which are blazing hot. I wrapped them with exhaust wrap yesterday and put some foil around the intake pipe so we'll see how it goes.

Thanks for you input though. It's really disappointing.

I also tested to ensure the ETI box is not fudging the signal or sending a signal
of ita own. I pointed a hairdryer at the ETI box and it did not affect the IAT.
It is definitely reading from the MAF sensor

Oil cooler and radiator upgrade would make a big diff. Both are undersized for the car.

thing is, the car ran great when i had AEM left hand side completely installed and stock right hand side with a duct to the Stillen G3 filter location.

I had to run this because my kit came with two left pipes and i cbf to undo all my work.

Now that i have the AEM right hand side installed - performance, driveability and fuel consumption have all suffered. The ECU reads IAT from the right hand side. IAT directly affects ignition timing and we all know the ECU pulls timing due to high IAT - whether the air is actually as reported by the sensor, or not (heatsoaked sensor).

To me, it seems that the AEM design is flawed as it draws from an area where some have likened to locking yourself in a closet with the doors shut. From my experience and further examinations, i have extend on that analogy and add a hairdryer to that closet.

The hairdryer refers to the blazing hot power steering lines that are within an inch of the piping after the MAF sensor. Since the piping is aluminium, the piping near the MAF gets heated quickly and sways the IAT readings.
Heat radiating off these lines heats the dead air. Since no fresh air enters this cavity, the engine is forced to draw air from the engine bay via the gaps around the piping which snakes between the power steering lines and the gaps freed up after the stock airbox has been removed.

I have wrapped the power steering lines in exhaust wrap and wrapped the AEM piping with foil bubble wrap. The issue was reduced only slightly. So i believe that the intake is drawing air primarily from the engine bay. It might aswell be a short ram intake!

IAT on the stock intake system drops much quicker (actually, it actually drops). On the AEM system, it doesnt drop. Once it gets hot, it stays hot. Which i think backs up my theory that it draws air primarily from the engine bay.

Therefore, i think it's not a true 'cold' air intake. Makes me wonder whether they did any real world testing or did they design this intake purely to put out the biggest numbers on a dyno. Who wants a mod which might deliver power gains on a very cold day (eg. dyno conditions) or within 10mins of starting the engine in the morning but restricts access to the engine's potential once it's up to normal operating temperature? I don't want my sports car struggling to keep up with or overtake econoboxes!

As for oil cooler, i've done my own testing by subbing in a resistor which simulates 110*C oil temp and fired up the car on a cool winter morning to ensure no heat issues skewing the results. Throttle response was almost the same. It was only a very slight sluggish feel but negligible and not enough to justify a separate oil cooler.

Bigger radiator, lower temp thermostat and fan control would be cool too but i wouldn't be as disappointed if the driveability and performance was on par with stock.