Headers

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What was your baseline? You really need to look at the change before and after mods, not just the peak number.

Interested to know why also, as these were the only mods that i had planned for my '13 too.What are your numbers right now?

FYI, stock i got 270whp and 220tq on a mustang dyno.

Yeah didnt run it before the mods, and when we tried to do the UpRev tune the program didn't take

What do you mean it didn't take? What does a stock 370 put down on that dyno? You might be on a low reading dyno.

Thats just it tried to put it on the dyno put it didnt take the UpRev tune program on to the ECU but they did get one read 285 whp I feel thats a lil low! I've been doing a lil research and on a N/A 2013 370z with the same mods they were getting 300+ whp

Well they did manage to get one read of 285 whp but I feel thats a lil low for the mods i got and I've compared it to others that are doing 300+

Yeah thinking about either HFC or LTH

That number means nothing without a baseline or at least knowing what a stock 370 puts down on that dyno. If a stock 370 puts down 270 on that dyno, your number is low. If it puts down 245, then your gain is in line with others with the same mods.

Didn't even think of that - How much Does a 2013 base 370z puts down ???

Ask the place you got dynoed. What kind of dyno was it? They're not all the same.

So I had a tune done a while back when I installed my HFCs and CBE. I recently installed the Stillen gen 3 CAI and am planning to install the m370 intake manifold. Will the combinaiton of those 2 new bolt-ons cause any problems like running too lean without a re-tune? I'm trying to figure out if I should install the m370 this week or wait until next week when my tuner is available to do the re-tune. I don't want to run into any issues with it being too lean during the cruise this weekend.

You will run leaner with the manifold but not to the point where it will be serious. You will be ok until your next tune.

Always wondered about when to tune also?
With Takeda longtube , catback , and FIRHFC'S my AF's at WOT are 12.5
AEM wideband

is it safe to run CBE and res. tp's without a tune?

Test pipes will require a tune

R2C cold air intake, Fast Intentions exhaust, Motordyne test pipes, and I was told headers would also be a good investment as well. Thinking a tune will be needed? Headers worth buying?

What is the leanest AFR that is typically considered safe? I have done some searching on the web and I've seen people talk about the ideal AFR mixture settings with a tune and people warning of leaning out a car but at what point is the AFR considered too lean that it hurts the engine? Anything above 13 or 14.7 or is there another general point that I am missing?

14.7 is idle. I don't recall exactly from my NA tune but I don't think I go leaner than 11.7ish.

Isn't 11.7 very rich? My understanding is that, the higher the number, the leaner it was. From what I have seen, ideal power is 12.5 (rich) to 13.5 (lean) but under normal cruising and idle, you want to be around 14.7. I will start a new thread, to see if a proper title will garner more interest.

The number for ideal power is in ideal conditions. You need to leave enough headroom for gas, IAT and so on.

:iagree:

Mine might be in the low 12's but its not much leaner than that. I don't have an AFR gauge (well at least not NA I didn't) so I don't recall exactly since it's been over 3 years since I got her tuned.

I have a Ark Grip CBE, Motordyne Art pipes, and Injen CAI on my 09 nismo.. Will it be worth it if i have it tuned now ? Or do i still need a headers?

How much do you guys think will be my HP of i have it tuned now?

You'll probably get around 10whp from a tune, but also pick up drivability improvements etc.

I have a 2013 370z nismo. It is my understanding that the nismo already comes with a tune, I'm looking into the armytrix exhaust, will I still need a tune after the install? Thanks in advance!


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Knock. Leaning a car out to far will eventually knock, same with adding boost and timing. It's all a dance trying to find the perfect combo. You might get away with say 12.8afr but if you're only running 20 degrees of timing then who cares? Your power will suck. I guess most NA tuners shoot for mid 12's on these cars but they also try for good safe timing. I don't know what will get you more hp in the long run but if you go from 12.5 down to 12.3 yet you sneak in another degree of timing then you've done good I'd say. On a turbo car like my old one 1 psi and 1 degree were good for over 10hp. So you add as much as you can till the knock sensor says no.

PS you're correct. High is lean, low is rich. The numbers you see are parts of air (14.7) that equals 1 part fuel (14.7:1). So a lower number means you're taking air away from that 1 part fuel which is richening the ratio.

Stillen g3
 

Hello guys, is it true that ones you install g3 intake do you need to get your car tuned?? I heard if u don't get it tuned check engine light goes on..

Not true. Bullshít.

/thread

/ibtl :icon17:

ibtm :stirthepot:

Since i use torque android app at the dragstrip where i can monitor afr post run.

Car tuned at AAM shows around 12.5 during WOT for run.

Hills garage tune runs about 13.5

outside temp about 10 degrees warmer whrn i ran with hills tune.

Very similiar time. Within .1

Also my intake air temp is usually about 8 degrees hotter than ambient when driving at highway cruise, anyone know what their stillen g3 registers?

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Nah rule of thumb is 3 or more breather mods. Even then you might be good but you'll start fuckin with the ecu by then.

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We have similar experience with bolt on mods. We find that once you go past Gen3 intakes, HFC's, and Cat-Back Exhaust you really should do a tune. You will see gains from Tuning with just those three mods, but we highly recommend getting the car tuned if adding headers or intake manifold just to maintain AFR's (power gains are a plus though).

Yeah, you pretty much hit the spot. I personally wouldn't add headers or an aftermarket intake manifold either if I wasn't planning on tuning it immediately afterwards. Same rule pretty much applies to most sport cars.

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Forgot to mention ported throttle body as well.

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I am about to purchase Stillen Gen 3 intakes, F.I. LTH, and F.I. TDX CBE, and I'd like to get a tune (especially w/ lth) but I don't want to void my warranty... will this happen? or at least is it easily reversible in case I need to claim my warranty?

It will not void your warranty. As long as you get the reflash cable with the tune you can easily remove it and go back to stock anytime you want

Still a check sum in the ecu. If nissan doesn't have a record of previous flashes, then they know you flashed it. If they want to push the issue they can refuse the claim. Gotta pay to play son.

Go to a dealer that's mod friendly. It's your only weapon.

Thanks. Part of me wants to keep the warranty intact since the car is less than 3 months old, but the rest of me is like screw it lets go fast no matter what! Guess it comes down to whether or not i trust my car not to take a dump on me after I mod it.

Never heard of that happening