BERK HFC's install complete!
 

Trying to go it alone, and haven't had much success. The main problem I have right now is a nut that connects the Y pipe to the last section of the exhaust. I got the nut on the driver's side off, but haven't been able to get the passenger side nut off:nutswinger:. With all my different methods of trying (sockets & wrenches), I've managed to round over the nut, now I can't get a grip on it at all.

Any suggestions?

I have managed to remove all other bolts on the Y pipe, all bolts on the support brace, loosened the o2 sensors, and even removed 1 bolt connecting the header to the cat on the passenger side (none on the driver side as of yet). Luckily for me this isn't my daily driver so I can leave it on the jack stands for a few days.

Anyone near memphis wanna finish the job? LOL.

make sure to lube up the nut real nice. also, if its rounded ( it is a 14mm) get a 13mm, and beat it on the nut with a hammer, and that should give you another go around. i didnt have any trouble, except i used a 3/8" drive first, and snapped it in half! 1/2 inch did the job.

If you're having trouble at the rear of the Y-pipe, you're in for a real treat on the upper side of the cats. There's one bolt on each one facing the 'wrong' way that has to be broken from the top (engine bay) side with a long set of extensions. Use lots of penetrant (WD-40 or whatever your favorite is), let it soak in good.

As for the one you're having trouble with on the rear of the Y-pipe: Impact can help break a bolt loose too. If you don't have an impact wrench, get the socket or wrench on there solidly and then hit the wrench with a hammer. Or attach a cheater pipe (length of pipe, like a jack handle or something, that slips over wrench to give you more leverage).

Thats a weird bolt to be on that tight. Anyways, your local auto parts store will probably have something like this that removes rounded off nuts...

http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...l/53910_sm.jpg

^^ yeah those things are awesome.

I've done a few of these installs on a 350z, wstar hit the nail on the head.

swivel socket helps too. looks like this:
http://www.istockphoto.com/file_thum...ocket_7_16.jpg

Dude I just installed mine with 2 friends. If you are having a hard time I think you should save yourself the aggravation and take it to a shop. One of the top bolts on each side is a nightmare to get off. Take a lot of extensions, breaker bar, and a friend under the car to guide the tool onto the nut. Please be careful.

I hear everyone on the top bolt nightmares, but I guess I didn't specify above that I've already removed one of these bolts from the top (I have the frankentool all set up per the DIY, 1/2 inch all the way), true it was on the passenger side and it was the one that looks like a nut rather than a bolt head.

I'm actually less concerned about these than I am the ones that need to be addressed from the bottom.

Also, the nut on the Y-pipe I'm having problems with is semi-blocked by a brace that runs accross the bottom of the car. This brace is preventing me from getting a deeper socket on and still have leverage to break it.

Gonna get my dad involved tonight, he's got a little more meat on his bones, oh yeah and he was a mechanic for like 20 years.

ya bro. i know what u mean. that install took me like almost 2 hrs. i had air tools. but with ur dad, it shouldnt be a problem

Having those is a must! That will take care of your problem.

The damaged nut extractors have worked wonders for me before. For those top bolts I've gotten the cats out every time. Broken a few tools and the heads off a few bolts, but they've always come out with some cursing and praying. Just remember the cardinal rule.... NO IMPACT TOOLS on the top bolts.

Call us if you need a walk through on any of the steps......

The good news:

BERK HFC's are solidly connected to my headers.:happydance:

The bad news:

Every muscle in my body hurts and I couldn't complete the job.:supergay:

Only small items left: connect bracket to transmission and HFC's, connect HFC's to Y pipe, put one nut back on Y pipe (never even tried to get the rounded one off since I was able to remove the cats without removing the Y pipe).

One question: Do I need to remove the brace bolts from the old cats to connect the brace to the new cats? If so, how? If not, what do I use?

I love that feeling after a job. It's a good workout, and a nice change of pace from sitting on my *** in front of the computer all day.

Are you talking about the brace with 4 bolts (2 into underside of transmission area somewhere, and one into a tab on each cat)? Yes, you do need to reuse that, and I think you do need to reuse the stock bolts, unless Berk ships extra replacements. I don't remember really, but I think not. Did you just leave the brace on the old cats? In any case, they're just a pair of nut+bolt on each cat, remove as usual.

Here's the bolt in question, I guess i have to bend the tab up to remove the bolt with the goofy head.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...N/IMG_7039.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...N/IMG_7040.jpg

Is that really the head of the bolt, or just a giant funny square washer. It's been a couple months since I did mine, so I could just be forgetful, but I don't remember anything like that.

That is the definately the head. I may just take the 4 bolts i have left for the hfc to y pipe connection to a home depot and match them.

Zforme - that goofy bolt will stay there. You'll use one of ours to mount that "wing" brace to the cats. If you didn't break those top bolt on the header/HFC flange, you can use that one as well. They are the same thread.

Just for reference, the bolts sizes you would be looking for are M10x1.25 x 35mm long. If they don't have metric then a 3/8" x 1.5" long bolt/nut combo would work as well.

how's it going? where you able to complete the install?

See page 2. LOL. Will be 100% done when i get off work tonight and spend 15 minutes under the car.

I ended up using the top bolts from the header/hfc flange, worked like a charm, THANKS!

Everything went smooth tonight. Drove a couple miles. I like it, not sure the GF will be thrilled, but that's to be expected.

Is there a typical break in period for these? I plan to go to the 1/4 mile track Tuesday. Should I have a certain amount of miles on them before I go race?

Also, this ties in with the previous question, how long till the ecu "learns" and gives me my best performance?

Did you disconnect/reconnect your battery?

I have not.

Well, if you want your ECU to adapt quickly, you should. Disconnect it, stomp on the brakes a few times, then reconnect it. Tip: I have all my settings written down on a piece of paper (e.g., radio presets, rpm setting for shift light, etc.) to make it easier to set everything back afterwards. You'll most likely also need to reset your windows (see owner's manual). After you do this, drive it around for a few days, taking care to do a mix of normal and hard driving, and you should be good to go. The more you drive, the more it learns.

Same Thing...well Almost
 

I bought a set of Berk HFC's along with an Invidia Q300 catbacks and a JDW pop charger. Nothing new for folks here, but I did buy an OBDCOM to hook to my computer and car so I can measure my mass air flow and a few engine performance items as I add the mods to the car. I want to see if I can detect a change in the sensors measurements as the mods go on plus I can check and get rid of cel's if they pop up. A little different approach than I've read so far.

Great approach! keep us in the loop with your findings