I use them and I say depending on why you'd want them then I'd say go for it. I probably would've picked the Stillen G3's, but I am not trying to have to take the front bumper off just to clean the filters so I went Typhoon for the short tube and ease of access to the filters. The power difference seems roughly the same, it might be more noticable at higher rpm's but I rarely pass 4rpm so couldn't tell you. There is a decent sound difference though.

At the end of the day though I just got it for the K&N filter and mileage, which I gained 1 - 2 mpg after install. As for performance, I couldn't care less. If I wanted to go fast I'd just break out the bike :D

All the people here and thats all the responses??

lol well honestly man how many did you expect to get? I think you will find that most posters here are more interested in the Stillen's or some other CAI.

If I got the K&N Typhoon's I would get the fang ram air hit as well (which i'm doing as a first mod anyway.

What is that??

You can google it, but it basically is hose that goes from the fang area (the area that looks like fog lights would go) to where the intake takes in air. It brings in air from outside however instead of hotter air from the engine.

From K&N's website about their way of measuring HP... interesting.


Published Estimated Horsepower Gains
Horsepower estimate claims are the result of specific or similar vehicle dynamometer testing. It would be impractical to test every possible vehicle configuration or year in which a particular engine may be used; in these cases, our claims are representational based upon similar engine/vehicle dyno tests. Based upon our engineering experience, we believe our estimated horsepower claims are reliable.


K&N Dynamometer Test Results
K&N utilizes an inertial dynamometer (dyno) to determine the horsepower of our intakes kits and OE replacement filters. This dyno does not actually measure horsepower, but rather measures acceleration. This measured acceleration is then multiplied by the mass of the drum (a constant mass) to obtain the force being applied to the drum, or in other words, the interface between the vehicle’s tires and the dyno drum. Now that the force at this point is known, determining the torque is straightforward. The torque is calculated by multiplying the calculated force by the radius (again a constant) of the dyno’s drum.

Now, torque is very simply and mathematically related to horsepower by the following equation:

Horsepower = Torque x RPM /5252

From this equation, the horsepower can be determined for any vehicle that is turning the drums of the dyno.

According to the above explanation, the only variable being measured by the dyno is the acceleration of the drum. There are no adjustments (calibration) to be made by K&N on either the two-wheel or four-wheel drive dyno. The mass of the drum(s) is determined at the factory before shipping the dynamometers to K&N and the mass of the drum(s) are imbedded into the software. K&N does not have the ability to modify or adjust these values.

Furthermore, there are several factors that can affect the horsepower values as measured by K&N or at any other dyno facility. Some of these factors are:

• The tension of the tie-down straps
• The air pressure of the driving wheels tires
• The atmospheric conditions (the dyno incorporates a correction factor for varying conditions and so do late model vehicles)

K&N has noticed that horsepower values will vary from day-to-day, while testing the same vehicle, due to the manner in which the vehicle’s on-board computer adjusts for varying climate conditions. In other words, if a vehicle is tested at sea level on a sunny and warm day, the dyno will apply a correction factor to adjust the conditions to a standard temperature and pressure (STP) and the vehicle’s on-board computer will also apply certain set of operating parameters. If that same vehicle is tested at a high altitude, on a rainy and cold day, the dyno will again adjust to STP while the vehicle may adjust to a different correction factor than it did on the sea level test. Furthermore, some vehicles have required almost a 100 miles be logged on the vehicle in order to allow the on-board computer to reset itself to obtain accurate power readings.

While K&N pays close attention to these many factors, and is patient while performing dyno tests, we are not in the position to scrutinize the many facilities that perform dynamometer testing for the general public. Furthermore, we certainly do not have enough information to make a judgment on the validity of these tests.

The k&N typhoon SRI was my first mod. It sounded ok but really didn't feel any power gain. That all changed when I had my nismo CBE installed. I felt the car was pulling stronger and the sound was beautiful. Next mod HFC. Any advice which is the best HFC?

I just installed them last night. I haven't taken the car for a drive yet but I don't expect to feel a difference. I'm hoping that they sound a little more aggressive like most performance intake systems do.

I primarily chose these because I didn't want to cut larger holes for the Stillen G3 pipes or swap the windshield wiper fluid reservoir for the Injen. I will most likely swap this system out for the Takeda long tube system if it ever comes out since they won't require any modifications to the car.

http://photos.eddiedelgado.com/photo...-tmmr2Cz-M.jpg

http://photos.eddiedelgado.com/photo...-zbWVrKT-M.jpg

http://photos.eddiedelgado.com/photo...-XxDC9Rt-M.jpg

Love the sound and slight performance gains mid-high RPMs

ya i really like mine too. they sounds bad they look bad asz and i thought it pulled harder. i let my buddy at work drive the car when i got it. after about 400 miles on it after the typhoon install i was like hey you want to drive it on the way to lunch he was like cool. he was like dam dood what did you do it feels quicker. he also mentioned the sound. so to someone who does not drive it everyday he noticed a diff right away.

what I wonder is on the g3 the long metal pipes have to heat up, thus heating the air going through it. I wonder what the air temp diff is between the typhoon and the g3 when the air enters the intake manifold?

I use one and dont give a dammme who has the other ones. U'ps my bad someone else had better numbers on a dyno so I suppose they gonna bust my ace on the interstate. Lol what bunch of shiz nit.

I have used K&N on most every vehicle I've owned. The looks and ease of maintenance over the Stillen sold me. My exhaust overpowers the sound of the intakes on my 370, so I can't comment on the sound. I will do a dyno soon, but with all the other mods I've done, there's really no way of telling what gains each mod got me. I'm just hoping for a 320 whp when all is said and done.

My 3 cents.
 

I bought mine with the K&N typhoon system already installed and actually considered taking it off before a few folks told me I'd be crazy for doing so. For me, I don't really know if they help the car perform any better (can't imagine they don't once you look at the extremely restrictive OEM intake). I do know that the car really has an incredibly strong top-end and can imagine this is where you're going to see the gains.
I don't have any other mods to my 2010 Base w/Sport package other than Dynamatting along with in-progress stereo upgrades. I'm very cautious of noise and am fairly sure I hear no intake howl unless I'm up over 6 grand.
Another strong point is,I can't imagine opening the hood and "not" looking at the cool fit and finish the Typhoon system offers. Don't really care for some of the extra "bling" I've seen, but from my 54yr old perspective, the Typhoon intake is a "must" for these cars.
Hope this helps..
Pat

Thanks for keeping this thread alive. Once were totally out of the potential for snow Im going to look into this more.