Some people have all the fun..

What are your WHP numbers with these mods?

He hasn't got it all installed yet, so no numbers yet. With any luck, I should have numbers on a full I/H/C/E setup (Stillen Gen3 Intake, Headers, and Exhaust + Berk HFCs) on a Dyno Dynamics tomorrow, but I don't have the pulley yet.

please forgive me, the n00b, for asking this question -

the pulley thing, can i put that on my 7AT? and what does it really do for the car?

I just answered this on another thread. Here, click on this link. I don't feel like repeating myself. ;)

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...html#post54631

And yes, you can put it on your 7AT. It's not specific to cars with MT.

+rep to ya!!!

edit - looks like there is another item on my list of mods.

Umm sorry guys, my install mech got sick and he had to take delivery of a new lift as well as organize his new shop so I did not get the oil cooler installed today.

The only mod I was able to manage to get in today was the Stillen catback. It sounds pretty damn good, but at this point, it is touching the cross member. I am going to be doing the rest of the exhaust pretty soon, so I'm not going to bother to go through all the trouble of getting that fixed.

Butt dyno says gains, I am very impressed actually.

This does mean no trackday for me tomorrow, which is a huge shame, but an oil cooler and crank pulley aren't mods you want to do in a hurry. Things just didn't work out as far as timing.
Luckily there's another trackday coming up in a couple weeks. That gives me time to get everything ready and such.

sorry folks, I'll keep you updated. Im pretty bummed out.

Hmm, well that's three of us hitting the crossmember now, and your exhaust is all stock other than the catback right? The exhaust genius that fixed mine in the other thread, this is basically what he ended up doing (in case you want someone to do the same):

Basically he jacked the exhaust up into the correct place from the front (the Y-pipe), ignoring the rear bumping up into suspension stuff for the moment, then used a torch to heat the two sides of the Y-pipe (about where that one slip join is on one side) and then pulled on the pipes while they were red-hot to get a very slight upwards angle there. Then he left that supported on its jack, went to the very rear (back by the two slip joints just before the muffler), and again heated both pipes red hot all around, and pulled down a bit to get them well clear of the suspension stuff. That made things "better", but it still hit the crossmember when the jacks came down.

Then he kinda had an "ah-hah" moment, and heated up the Y-pipe section right by the big flange that connects it to the rear (like maybe 3-5 inches forward from the flange), and apparently that's where all the misfit tension was. He didn't even move that one, he just heated it up (with the jacks in place) and it corrected itself at that spot (the pipe now basically shifts up (without changing overall angle) some fraction of an inch right there, so that the rear is higher than the front).

so the exhaust pipe is still toching the cross member even with stock cats :(
so having berks hfc makes it worse?

i gues im just gonna have to wait and see once i get mine installed :(

Mmm...not sure I'd say the HFCs make it worse. I was speculating that the HFCs were the root cause. But I think that's now been proven wrong. If RCZ is experiencing the issue even with stock cats, then it's not the fault of the Berk HFCs. It's the Stillen exhaust itself that has the issue. I'm about to send a PM to Josh to make him aware.

keep us updated :D i just got my exahaust 3 hours ago via fedex maybe theyll do a recall

I think you should go ahead and install it. Then we'd have some more data to see if you also have a problem. We need as much experience data as we can get. Even if there's a recall, it won't be for quite some time. Heck, now that you've been warned in advance, you might discover a way to avoid this issue that the three of us didn't think of and come out the hero!

Hey guys.. the exhaust can take some adjustment, as we have discussed. The best method (not saying anyone hasn't done this.. but I conferred with my service manager) is to loosen everything, and jacking at the y-pipe (hard!) get the clearance necessary to clear the crossmember.

This will take loosening the bolts at the catalytic converter brace which hooks to the transmission. This is a slotted brace, and can give you the 1/4" needed to clear everything.

You should not have to heat anything up to make clearance..

I have a 350Z on the rack, I shot a quick picture to show the location of the brace and the bolts I speak of:

http://www.stillen.com/misc/cat_brace_bolts.jpg

I might just take it to an exhaust shop and have them do something about it too. That should be easy enough considering they make exhaust all day long...

Yeah I am sure it is something that can be fixed by doing what Josh said. I was tight on time though. We shouldn't have to heat anything up. Maybe even just using shorter hangers will do??

Thanks Josh. I'll be sure to pass this on to my mechanic when he installs the headers next week. I'll be sure to let everyone know how it all turns out.