Dude, Mighty Putty doesn't hold a candle to JB Weld :bowrofl:

http://jbweld.net/img/jbweld_lrg.jpg

Generaly unless the air box is really optomised and even then, cold air will out power ram air 2:1 or even more. A drop of the intake air of 10-15 degrees will outpower most ram air systems, not to mention posible issues like MAF turblence that you might get with ram air.

Well ram air is cold air, so it's not like cold air is going to be colder, I'm not following the logic there. And in either case I would think the air filter would smooth any incoming turbulence. I just don't think ram air systems, on most setups at most speeds, really produce any noticeable force into the intake system compared to the sucking power the engine already possesses.

To clarify, if you have a system that gets cold air, you will get a gain of about 1-1.5% per every 10 degree drop of intake air temp vs hot underhood air. If you made that system a ram air, it would only improve about .5-1 percent total.

If you get the pressure change that the ram air creates, you can calculate the power gain easily and you will find the the air density is incresed more by dropping the temp than the slight gains the ram air makes.

Of course Ram air is good and helps but its more important to get cold air by a factor of almost 2 in most cases.

If it is your intention to actually add HP with an intake, it is better to actually draw "real" cold air , rather than suck "more" hot engine bay or radiator.

Excellent stuff, I agree, highly recommended!

Its pretty simple, the colder air is, the more dense it is, this helps you two ways. You get more oxygen to burn and more expansion in the PV curve.

I am thinking that an actual moving car might have less issues with the heat than a car on the dyno, even with a huge fan. More air moving around the car might affect airflow in this area to where it makes its full power.

I htink someone here monitered the IAT with this intake under actual driving and found the temps to be good.

I think to be fair to Stillen I'll dig up the nose off dyno chart and show that and let the readers make their own conclusions.

Hmm...what ramifications might his have on dyno tuning? Like will the difference in airflow with the car on a dyno vs. real-world driving be enough to invalidate or compromise the ECU map loaded in from a dyno tune?

We need to put a dyno in a wind tunnel and run some tests.

I would imagine that you'd have small differences, yes, given the fact that on a dyno, the engine is fighting the resistance of the rollers. It would depend on the dyno manufacturer and workings, but they'd have to try and simulate the increase in aerodynamic and rolling drag, as well as air compression effects after about 100 mph.

Oh well. It'll still be an improvement over just having bolt-on mods and no tune at all.

Definitely.

On a MAF equiped car, it should compensate for small relativly small differences in air desisty without going to far over in the load, also I am not 100% sure but I think newer Nissans use IAT as a correction. Older Nissans like when I used to work for Nissan didnt but with things getting tight, it would not suprise me if it now was part of the fuel calculation algoritum.

What I think we should do is to put a thermocouple in the area of the air fliters and see whats actualy going in when the car is being driven.

Another thing I was thinking of is perhaps there is radiant heat transfer from the radiator.

This man is an aeronautical engineer too :tup:

Man I need these things. That is an astonishing gain. Those guys at Stillen DO IT RIGHT!!!