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Hey wstar and RCZ, you know what's conspicuously absent from our list? Lightweight flywheel. Do either of you plan to get one?
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http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...-released.html |
wont changing pulleys and flywheel make it a bitch to drive tho
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nah semtex, I already mentioned this in the other thread.
let me find it for you... EDIT: Here you go On UD Pulley Quote:
On having both lighter pulley and flywheel Quote:
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I had a horrible experience with Pulleys on the 350.. Not sure if it was the install or the bad pulley out of the batch.. A year of wobbling caused my crankshaft to almost strip the thread off - leading to a new crankshaft for what a couple horsepower a little better response? In and out of shops not knowing what was wrong. Put a stock pulley back on it and bought a new crank bolt and got rid of the car after a couple thousand miles.
If your in need of horsepower that badly Id skip all the bolt-ons and go FI for a couple thousand more.. Somethings arent meant to change.. Something connected to the main component of your motor is one of them IMO. |
I disagree...how about you make sure things are installed right and enjoy the benefits of a more responsive engine and a some hp?
If we are going to be afraid of things because they aren't installed properly, then you would be insane to think that a FI setup is less risky, and that is by your own logic, don't you think? This is a good mod, but like anything else, if you don't install it right then you can't expect good results. Also let me tell you, you got off easy..that could have been SO much worse. |
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A pulley is NOT something you want to take a chance on with a sub-par vendor. Don't go thinking you're going to save $$ and find one on ebay, you are opening yourself up to potential problems. Not all pulleys are the same.. by any means. Thanks zeebra, you bring up a good point. |
I have had pulleys on all of my cars. However, the gain you get from what you risk is not worth it.
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Ok I'm re-hijacking my thread back for a bit.
Just got the Stillen cat-back installed. I raised the "center" section at the spot indicated in the instructions with a floor jack to try to get the system clear of the chassis crossmember, but in the end after I torqued everything down, it still dropped in a bit and came to rest on that crossmember. So clearly, I'll have to go back and loosen all the bolts and tweak this some more to get it to sit right. However, I went ahead and fired it up for a short test drive. Words cannot describe how awesome the full exhaust setup sounds, and when I make an audio recording later, I'm sure it won't do justice to the live thing. Whoever was worried about the headers making it too high-pitched, I don't think you have anything to worry about. It's a really nice low growl (at low rpms), and changes predictably with load and rpms. All that said, on the test drive I still had an odd rasp/buzz/whatever sound at certain RPMs under acceleration load on the road. Although the sound characteristics of the exhaust have completely changed, I recognize this as a sound that was bothering me before, ever since the cats/headers went in. I'm starting to think I must have a leak issue somewhere up in the area of the cats/headers still, which I'll also have to sort out. I may just run down to an exhaust shop sometime tomorrow and have someone who looks at this stuff every day listen around under the car and try to find it. Anyways, minor install issues that are undoubtedly my fault aside, it's awesome. I think the catback really let loose a lot of pent-up gains from the headers and cats, I could definitely feel a real difference on the road. And the sound is amazing, although it borders on the territory of too loud, in a "My neighbors are all going to hate me now" sort of way. Not loud like a fart can on a civic, loud like standing in the pits at a NASCAR event. Audio soon... |
Awesome wstar!
The rasp you're hearing is most likely from the HFCs, and it's sort of par for the course. You want the increased horsepower, but it will add some rasp (although seemingly far less than previous year Z's).. Test pipes take that to another level.. But it will absolutely not hurt to run everything through and make sure their are no leaks, that will definitely add to the noise, and not in a good way. The cat-back can take some adjustment, and a lot of people have asked us why there is adjustment in our exhaust systems. The answer, unfortunately, is back to Nissan, in that the stock exhausts don't always line up, and rarely are on spot. The cars are just built slightly differently. Most people don't notice because they aren't staring at the brand new part they just installed, the entire car is new. We go the extra step in allowing for minor adjustments to compensate. Congrats on the new exhaust! Glad you're feeling the results others have been documenting.. |
Josh is correct. The OEM's test individual components on a jig. The jig has plus/minus tolerances. If on one side the tolerances stack to the plus side while the other stacks to the minus side you will have issues.
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In any case, I've got a short vid from this evening so people can get some idea about the sound. The ugly buzz I'm talking about doesn't really come through on the video (odd). Then again, neither do the low frequencies either (I guess my mini-dv's mic sucks). You may think it sounds low and grumbly rolling around the parking lot at the start of the video, but the video is really missing most of the even lower frequencies. It's even more beastly in person. Under acceleration the audio track sometimes seems like the car gets quieter as it passes through certain RPM ranges - again that's the low frequencies the mic can't handle, seems to kinda mute the rest. There's no full-throttle runs in this, mostly light throttle just rolling up and down the rpms a bit. There's one good 3/4 throttle run through a couple of gears near the end though. -- bleh youtube "processing" is taking forever this evening... [YOUTUBEHQ]YS98sdExjz4[/YOUTUBEHQ] |
Dude that sounds awesome! When will you be getting a dyno? Recall that RelentlessRY said he saw a loss of torque in the mid-range with these headers, but we suspect that it's because he had the stock cats & cat-back, and that this issue goes away when the headers are combined with HFCs and a good cat-back. Now all we need is a dyno to confirm once and for all (which is why I'm so eager). Still, thanks for the video, as it at least puts to rest the 'high-pitched sound' concern. +rep.
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Sounds great! Rep added.
It sounds a little more hollow but that is to be expected. |
Yeah, I think I need these headers. *sigh* I'm going to have to take the wife shopping. Again.
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wstar--I'm having the same hissing sound with my cat/exhaust set-up. I'm taking mine to a muffler shop next week to get them to check for leaks and do some seam welding. I noticed there's very little room for error in the small pipe going to the exhaust from the x-pipe. I'm almost positive that's where my leak is coming from. Nothing a quick hit from a torch won't fix!
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Damn I'm at work and will have to wait another 5 hours to hear the full setup.
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Alright, I have given in to temptation. I have ordered the headers. When in doubt, pull the credit card out. :rolleyes:
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lmao, Im about to pull the trigger on something else too :)
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I picked up an extra bottle jack this morning so I can manipulate the position of the exhaust from more places at once. Later today I'm going to put the whole car on stands (when I did the catback I just raised the rear), loosen *everything* up to and including the cat<->header bolts (but not header<->engine obviously), and get it lined up correctly with 2 jacks (supporting the Y-pipe and the center section), and see if I can get it off the crossmember permanently. Then I'll re-torque again, and if the "leak" sound is still there (and/or I can't get it off the crossmember), it's going to an exhaust shop tomorrow. I really want to get this sorted out definitively so I can move on to the intakes this weekend, and then schedule a dyno for next week. |
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Anyway, FYI my exhaust did the exact same thing you're describing, and I had to spend time making adjustments and tweaks as well. So, nothing out of the ordinary. |
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The upside is, I did find that 2 of the 6 bolts connecting the cats to the headers weren't properly torqued down when I went to loosen them (the hardest ones to reach, which makes sense). They were probably better, but insufficient, earlier on and had now shaken loose enough to notice. Getting that done right got rid of the ugly buzz I was talking about. The exhaust sounds perfect now. There's still a little odd rumble I can hear when the car is at crawling speed, but it's easily identifiable as the the center section vibrating against the crossmember it's laying on. Maybe I can just get some kind of rubber pad that can resist exhaust heat and stuff it between them? I donno at this point. Or shorten the rubber hangers (or bend the posts that go into them) somehow. That "air pressure" noise I was talking about before is still there, most noticeably when gently engine braking around the 3k-ish region. I think it's just normal, as there's no other indication of a leak in the exhaust note anymore, yet if anything that sound got a little more noticeable. I kinda like it actually, as long as it's nothing bad. Anyways, I'm not letting the crossmember thing get my spirits down. The car sounds and feels insanely good right now. I think I'll do the intakes this weekend now for sure, although it may have to wait until Sunday, as I've got a big all-day drinking/bbq -type thing to attend during the day tomorrow. |
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There might be some other way to adjust those exhaust hangers, maybe someone from Stillen might know, might be worth a call. |
Mine still touches the crossmember a little bit now and then as well. I have a sneaking suspicion it's the Berks throwing things off ever so slightly. I mean think about it. When Stillen developed this exhaust, they hooked it up to stock cats. If the dimensions of the Berks deviate from the stock cats ever so slightly, it could throw off how the exhaust lines up.
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A couple of updates:
I ran by an exhaust shop Saturday morning. They heated up the hangers for the center section with a torch and bent them a bit to get more clearance at the crossmember. It's no longer laying on it, but it still kinda touches and rattles there a bit, depending on exhaust temps and the phase of the moon. Hopefully I'll get it sorted out permanently soon. I got the Stillen Gen3 intakes put on today, which completes all the major boltons (Intake, Headers, Cats, Cat-back). The install is really pretty easy, although it takes a little thought and tweaking up where the filters are. Butt dyno is still pretty impressed, the sound coming out of them is nice. I've only driven about 10 miles on them so far though, so the ECU probably hasn't even caught up with the changes yet. I'm going to go back by that exhaust shop sometime early this week and have them sort out the crossmember issue once and for all somehow (and maybe have them weld the slip-joints so the clamps can be removed), and then schedule a dyno for the setup. I'm really interested in how the dyno looks now. My Butt Dyno impressions so far is that the upper rpm range is better all around, but I may have traded a little low-rpm torque for it (which is kinda expected with such a free-flowing exhaust setup). |
Thank you so much for the review.
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hi can you take a picture of where it is hitting?? just bought the stillen exhaust/berk hfc combe and want to know ahead of time what to look for when im doing the installation thank you very much :D |
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^^thank you very much kind sir :tup:
is the rattle that bad?do you guys forsee damge in the long run if it keeps on hitting it?? |
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Now, one thing to keep in mind is that I don't have the headers yet. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the headers don't change the geometry more and make things worse! I'm getting the headers put on some time next week, so we'll find out. wstar has the headers, so part of me is wondering if his problem is worse because of them. |
Yes that's the same spot mine hits at. It won't destroy anything in the short term, you just don't want to hear it rattling. After I failed to get it clear myself, I went to a nearby random exhaust place earlier in the week, and they didn't do much good either.
Then I hit a well-known performance shop around here early this morning, who in turn referred me to a muffler shop down the road where they said the guy was an exhaust genius. Just got back from there. He got me clear of the crossmember and the rear swaybar and those diagonal links, but it took some pretty intense tweaking (he heated up the pipes at a couple of strategic points with a torch and bent them a little). He also welded up the slip-fit seams for me. I'm definitely not rattling against anything anymore. I'm going to get under it tonight again myself and try to triple-check the bolts on the headers (and everything else) to make sure I'm not leaking (it's hard to tell rasp from leak under load, at least for me). I'm hoping I find a loose bolt or a failed gasket somewhere honestly, because the rasp is kinda intense. Regardless, I think a design with some kind of flex joints up in the Y-pipe section (like the stock ones had) would probably cut some of the rasp though. |
I posted this in the other forum, but I'll repeat here.. with hopes this helps others find the right adjustments.
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Well I think the raspiness I was worried about is mainly only audible from inside the car. I finally got to hear it from the outside when I got it Dyno'd today, and it sounds great from outside. The place I was planning to go (that had a Dyno Dynamics) had some scheduling issues, but I might go back there Monday. So for now, I went to Carboys here in Houston where they had a DynoJet available. They did 3 runs, they looked pretty consistent. Max HP was 305.3, Max Torque was 241.2. These numbers sound a little low to me for full intake/exhaust compared to what else we've been seeing (given that its a DynoJet), but on the other hand (a) This is a 7AT, the rest have all been 6MT so far, (b) It was extremely humid in Houston today, and (c) Every dyno and every car is different :)
Anyways, I realized after I got home that I've got no way to make the graphs. He gave me the raw DGP file for the runs that has all the data (including A:F ratio), and you're supposed to download some free software from DynoJet to view it and make your custom graphs. However, I'm all Mac here, and their software is Windows-only. Anyone else wanna take my file and make graphs for me? :) Video is uploading to youtube now too, I'll make a separate thread for the vid and the graphs (if someone can make them). They also gave me a printout of the best run, I guess I could find somewhere to scan that in. The printout has lots of "gaps" in it, I'm not sure if it's just this run or if they're all like that. The tech said it was his sensors or whatever that were at fault for the gaps in the lines. Anyways, for a text analysis of what I can see on that, the torque curve is pretty broad and flat from about 4.5k to 6.5k, the horsepower is basically on a 45 degree slope that hits peak a little under 7k and stays there to where he cut off at (7.5k). Crossover point is about 6.6k. Edit: bleh that DGP file he gave is like 95 bytes long, clearly I don't have the data, gonna go back by there later and get the real thing. |
Thx for the update. I'm glad to hear that the torque curve remains flat! :tup: If you want me to try to generate a graph, PM me. But yeah, 95 bytes sounds suspect. Not sure why he did it this way tho. He could have saved the actual graph as a jpg file. I just bring a jump drive with me and tell them to make a copy to my jump drive.
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