I was all for the injen intake at one stage. Due to the dry filters and black pipping.

However I live in a wet part of the world at times and the Stillen intake sits alot higher off the ground. I don't wanna be worried everytime I go driving in the rain.

Hence why I'm ordering the G3.

Best gains = Stillen Gen 3 but install is pretty involved.

The only short ram I would recommend is the R2c system (best filtration in the industry plus heat shields). Not quite the gains as Stillen, but installation is very easy.

Both have pluses and minuses. FYI I have the Gen 3s on my G sedan and love them. :)

Following a few early posts regarding the goodness of the OEM setup:

I got the intake flow rate per RPM per a couple dyno runs. In each case the flat flat part of the curve shows that this is where the OEM setup is limited on how much air it can pull in. Most of the gains (shown from various vendors) occur at this higher RPM range and will vary depending on how well the intake air temperature is managed.

For the sound, for the looks, for a few HPs at higher RPMs getting a "CAI" is really great! :tup:

Buy it for looks and sound. For every +10 degrees intake temperature, you loose approx 1% of hp. So if you're running 280hp, you'll loose 8.4hp for a 30 degree difference. Now theres also the agruement of when driving, how much does it really heat up under the hood with all that air rushing around. I don't doubt that it does, but really how much. I've read that short tube are more for TQ and long for HP, just because of the physics involved. But all in all, and at the end of the day I feel it really doesn't matter. So buy what you like. Droping my bumper to clean my filters really isn't my thing, but to each his own. Buy it for looks and sound cause there is not much difference in the performance. If you think 8hp is going to win you any race (what ever form) consistantly, I'll take that bet. :shakes head:

All that heat soak nonsense is B.S. I have the R2C intakes and while they do allow higher intake temps sitting idle, while moving they are just 8 degrees above ambient; the same as the long intake tubes and stock intakes.

Normal rain won't affect the Injens, but driving through deep puddles will! You do have more clearance with the G3's so if you plan on driving through puddles then I would go with the G3's.

Have you thought about painting the G3's black?

True, the lower RPM's don't have much to show with the G3's, but on the dark side of 6,000 it's a whole new animal!

I agree completely, it is such a screamer above 5k!

This and the fact that the MAF tube is slightly larger too does make the car run lean which gives it most of its gain, so if the MAF on a stock intake was slightly larger too it would do the same. The long tube intakes location themselves do little to improve gains as the stock intake is a true enclosed CAI, its the MAF and its size. Any open intake regardless of its location is going to get heat. If you stand by the side of a Z while its running you will feel the heat from the engine like crazy so an open intake a foot further away isnt going to keep IATs down but a couple of degrees. My stock intake with K&N drop ins IATs are the same as the long tubes IATs. I measured it with my COBB tuning device. If I remember right (its been awhile since I did this) my IATs were about 7-8 degrees above ambiant when driving. And were sucking in 400 G/S, and since its a dual intake, I think thats 400 G/S per intake but not sure.

I just installed the K&N short ram. Totally did it for looks and sound. Very happy with it so far!

I understand that a CAI will most lickly give you more HP but thats not what i was looking for.

I was looking for sound and looks and the K&N Sounds great and looks great

what is considered base or avg temp?
like... i am currently in fresno where avg is like 100... lol...

what is the average for the car?

a good intake should have the ambient temps about 5-8 degrees above the temp outside while driving. At a light the temps will go up alot but will go down when the air hits the front end.