If you don't do before/after runs on the same day it is going to be pointless. The potential difference in stock and any of the aftermarket intakes after already having other bolt-on's installed is going to be fairly small.

Intake air temps are measured at the MAF and reported through the OBD II. I use a Dash Dyno and it is really very versatile.

I really want to like these intakes. I just wish someone would do a proper test. I don't have money to burn if they aren't worth the money haha

no aftermarket intake is really worth the money as far as gains are concerned, its more about the bling bling.

Does it matter what gear the dyno run was done?

Never mind - I found the answer: 5th gear with the A/T will cause the engine to cut off at about 7k and 160 MPH.

I got myself a Scangauge to check the intake temps and they were 11-12 F below ambient temperature. At highway speeds, the outside temp was 88F-89F and the intake temps were 98F-100F. They rose quickly to over 150F at standstill. Anyone know if that difference between outside air and intake air is a lot for short intakes? What are the Stillen G3 and Injens outside/intake air temp differences?

???

I had like 20whp from my Stillen G3's....thats a noticeable difference man.

The Takeda short intakes (no heat shield) had intake temps 30 degrees above ambient temps. I have the R2Cs (with heat shields) and my intake temps are 8-10 degrees above ambient temp. I also have the Modshack vent mod and this definitely helps lower the temp.

20whp because it was your first bolt-on obviously. Once you get HFC's and CBE the performance difference between stock and aftermarket CAI's are pretty negligible.

Do you have first hand proof of this, or are you like the countless number of people on this forum that just keep regurgitating this line and stating it as fact for all new people to read. The general idea that mods HP gains don't "stack" is more or less true, but as far as intakes go on the 370, that is clearly not the case.

Look at semtexs' before/after for example

He picked up gains throughout the powerband as well as a peak of +15whp

Does that sound negligible to you?

People have posted other dyno charts (done the same day) that have showed negligible gains when going from stock to aftermarket while already having the other boltons. I've seen the charts semtex posted, but honestly unless they were done on the same day, I'm not going to put much weight into them. Also, on his charts, I can't tell, but are there any gains mid-band or is it all at peak RPM? If there are gains but they are only at redline, who cares?

I have yet to see a g3 dyno that showed little gains, find the threads if you can I'd be interested to see. If you look at the the 2 graphs closely you can see he definitely gained good power throughout the entire range.

I'll look at it closer later, but it is hard to tell since one graph goes to 600 HP and the other is 500 HP, it skews things. I'll also see if I can find some of the dyno's of other CAI setups with other bolt-ons, I know there have been at least a few posted.


The best would be to get runs with stock, just K&N Dropins, and then one of the long tube CAI's, all back to back. Someone up for that challenge perhaps? :)

I would if I had a friend with a shop =]

fwiw RCZ dynoed the stock intake vs stock with no filters back to back and saw no gain at all, so I don't think drop in filters do anything.

Here is a G3 dynoed on an automatic done by a respected tuner. It lost power over most of the power band except at the top end. When he removed the bumper it tested
much better. Also, Tony at Fast Intentions has not had good luck with the G3 at all.

The forum doesn't allow a direct link to 370Z.com, so change the 370x to 370z.


http://www.370x.com/MagazineArticles...no-Thrash.aspx

So where do the G3/Injens get their power gains from, if the filter apparently is not the issue? Do they get the gains just from the colder air (which btw on a dyno with the hood open does not really matter IMO), or from the smoothness of the intake tubes? Maybe A/F ratio or something like that - I'm no expert...

what was the HP before the mods

I might fill my front bumper with ice to get lower intake temps...:tup:

I might put the stock intakes in this Friday and do another dyno run next week, if I can get Dyno time on the day that I am off. Then the whole R2C gains issue should be settled.

Can you do a before/after run on the same day?

of course on a dyno the intakes arent going to show high numbers, even with the fans, it will never accurately simulate the vehicle being in motion. Combined with a tune, the intakes, hfcs, and cbe combo produce a VERY dramatic increase in power, there are dyno charts all over this forum, guys with Uprev tunes, Cobb tunes, with said mods, with my AP, my inlet temps averaged between 5-8 over ambient, that in itself tells me that cooler air is getting in, which leads one to believe that power is being made. Lets not make uneducated assumptions based on the opinions of others when there are facts with results all over this forum gentlemen, use the search function.

Prolly not..too much work to do all that in one day - for me at least. BTW, on my way back from work with 79F ambient temp, I got as close as +6F on the intake temps. Not bad IMO. Sorry for the bad pic.

Okay, I put the stock intakes in my car and I will dyno the car with the stock intakes on July 17th at Forged. I drove around for about 40 miles this afternoon in 92F weather and the intake temps were about 8F above ambient temperature. The biggest difference I noticed is that while idle at the light, the intake temps do not rise as fast and become not as high as the R2Cs intake temps, which rose to 150F. Today, with the temperature about 10F higher that earlier in the week, the intake temps at the light after a few minutes rose to about 115F. The butt dyno did not notice too much difference, but the car is definitely a bit less loud.

take your rc2s with you and bolt them on after the baseline and dyno again

Exactly, unless you do a before and after the same day all you will have is speculation. If you are going to go through the hassle of another dyno with the stockers on, might as well stay around another 30min and do a 2nd dyno with RC2's installed for a proper before/after test

So far do you prefer the car with the RC2s or with the stock intakes? I ask because I am considering purchasing the RC2 intakes within the day.

The R2Cs are nice intakes, but I'm not sure if they gave me any gains. Maybe a few HP at top RPM. After I took the R2Cs out, I noticed that one of the seams on one of the heat shields was cracked. For now, I'm staying with the stock intakes and bought some HKS drop ins from AAM, and now some intake tubing from CorSport Inc.

So you're saying I should keep my $500. Gotcha, thanks :D

I had my car dynoed yesterday at Forged on the same dyno I dynoed it early June. Since the first dyno, I removed the R2C intake, put in the stock boxes, replaced filters with K&N drop ins (the HKS filters I ordered from AAM were on back-order and to this day AAM has not credited my $64 - shame on them! So I bought K&N) and got HFS post-MAF tubes. I also got a canned COBB tune for HFC and CBE. Temps were about the same; high 70s to low 80s, but higher humidity. Result: I lost almost 20 HP at about 5,400 RPM and about 10 at max RPM. In all honest - the car doesn't feel like I lost, rather with the COBB tune, I feel more torque, but that went down by 10 Ftlbs. With the COBB tune, the car has a better A/F ratio and fuel trim, so I don't think I can blame the tune for the loss. But I doubt that the R2Cs gave me an extra 20 HP, so I'm a little confused...car feels torqier, but numbers are down. I might throw the R2Cs back in and see what happens. I like the K&N Typhoons as well, so I might give those a shot, but waiting for some independent dyno results.

Too many variables to accurately gauge what is going on.

I do not disagree with that ^^

i Agree to not disagree with that.

I just put the R2Cs back in and took it for a spin - intake temps were same as with stock intakes while in motion, power and torque the same according to the butt dyno and A/F was 12.2 at WOT, so that looks all pretty good. Sticking with the R2C for a while.

Since you have them and they are not losing any power you might as well keep them on. But I think you have kinda shown that the short rams atleast are the same or worse than stock, so some can save some money if they are going to buy the R2Cs just for performance. Bling is another story.

^^That's the plan for now.

I don't think that is the case. He was getting 20 hp more with the R2Cs on. Maybe they aren't responsible for all that gain but they certainly didn't lose anything.

I have no reason to believe that the R2C lose power. I tested it again today, and the intake temps are the same as with the stock intakes while in motion, the filters are twice the size of the stock (if not more), and the pipes are smoother that the stock hoses. It also runs a tad leaner on the R2Cs. I did a few 0-60 runs today and for the first time (after the Cobb tune and with the R2Cs on) I chirped the tires in 2nd gear (with A/T) - never happened to me before, so maybe I did add a few HP, who knows.

I did say the same or less and Im sure they werent responsible for 20 HP gains.

Yea the big filters probably dont need to be that big, the car can only suck in so much air regardless how big the filters are, I did an air intaake reading on my Cobb and was getting like 400 GS at WOT and I dont think the car can suck in any more than that and the K&N filters can flow way more than that. The Cobb tune should have fixed your AF so its not too lean.

:iagree: BTW, how do you run an airflow test on the Cobb? I do not recall that being one of the tests you can run, but I'm sure I could be wrong.