:facepalm: :shakes head: :shakes head: :shakes head:

DAM!!! I FEEL FOR YA!!!!

me too,...
I got that stripped driver side bolt and I quit and havent installed it yet the FI HFC...
Actually been working more on my friend's subaru lgt upipe install, my 6 pot front brembos, rear pads, etc etc,...

HFC still sitting in the box... Get some rest,..look into a bolt extractor and give it another shot,....satisfaction comes from hard work.....

HGonzales,..who did the install? Just curious?

Dyno posted on first post. Take it for what it is.
As for my installer, Seth @ Sonic Motorsports handled it, and didn't round any bolts and was prepared for my cat bolts. He's worked on alot of HRs and is also a Cobb AP pro tuner. Great guy and seemed to know his way around my engine as if it were his own. I'll go there again if there's anything I'm not confident enough to handle myself. :tup:

You gonna give the car some time to learn then re dyno?

The ecu only 'learns' in closed-loop mode, which is only used for idle/low load/cruise conditions. During acceleration, deceleration, and WOT (wide open throttle), the ecu relies on its pre-programmed fuel and ignition tables. That's why products like Osiris and Accessport exist, to reprogram what the ecu does at WOT.

I got the nut off. Install almost complete now.

:roflpuke2:

Nice, What did you use to get it off?

His hands and some elbow grease :bowrofl::roflpuke2:

That's good to know, I asked this question here the other day: http://www.the370z.com/tuning/17945-...omparison.html

Funny how opinions and wrong info can turn into fact on message boards. Several people in other threads have been saying that the car will get faster and dyno higher after 20-60 miles. Which led me to start that thread. Dynoing would be a real pain if you to drive it around for awhile after each mod.

Yes,

You have to dis connect the steering shaft. You will never get the driver side manifold out or the new header in if you don't.

:woot: :happydance:

Tony mentioned that he spoke to you about doing the Dyno on 5th gear instead of fourth...Just wondering shouldn't the Dyno guys at the shop have known this?

Tony do you think its gonna make a significant difference if he does another run on 5th gear? Would you recommend that it runs awhile first before he should choose to try again?

So then why after a modification That hasn't been given time on the car power increases with each pull.

Install complete. Making quick teaser vid for you guys now. Full review will follow. Dyno and re-tune (if necessary) scheduled for Fri. morning.

I'll cover this when I do my full review.

I haven't personally seen this trend first hand. I will, however, test this out in a couple of days when I dyno a customers 370Z. We already have baseline dyno's that were ran well after the mods were installed. If the ecu had adjusted for them in open loop, it would have been reflected on those pulls. Before I do these next set of pulls, I will reset the long term fuel settings. If what you are saying is correct, then I should, theoretically, lose power.

If I'm wrong, I'll gladly come back here and eat crow :)

wouldn't the "pedal trick" reset the ECU and have it relearn in about 50-100 miles?

Vid posted. You can view it here -> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...tml#post506722

Sounds mean!! that's what i'm talking bout. Cant wait for the launch vids!!! Thanks for the vids. I cant even imagine how much better it sounds in person
:tup:

Some shops wont dyno in 5th as the dyno itself has a top speed limit. The one I tested on is rated at 200 mph so I think it should take 5th gear. The dyno also knew my car was in 4th gear and seemed like it showed the gear ratio. I dont know how big of a difference it will cause, but I suppose ill find out when I get it dynod again :icon17:

Trust me your wheel speed in 5th is nowhere near 200 MPH. It is not even that close to 150 MPH. Your car needs to be dyno tested in 5th gear because 5th gear is your 1:1 gear ratio on this specific car with the 6MT. Your numbers are going to be lower in 4th and you will no generate as much wheel speed. Your car is under more of a load in 5th as well.

As far as some people saying the ECU does not need time to learn the new mod, they are WRONG. Miles put on the car are an adjustment period as well as multiple runs on the dyno. The ECU cycles constantly and whatever the cycle period it is in terms of miles is the adjustment period. I have done over 100 dyno pulls with the 370Z alone and on over 5 different cars. I have seen the pattern I just explained above formed on all of them.

I am confident that once you go back to the dyno and they dyno the car in the correct gear (5th) along with 6-8 pulls you will see the difference. Kyle @ Stillen and I do not agree on much but the one area where there is no argument is the multiple dyno pull method. I have applied it to all of the dyno testing we have done and it works.

Tony

5th gear has a top speed of 155 mph. Some Dynojets can not handle that speed and have to dyno in 4th.

He got is baseline in 4th, so even if he goes back to get a run in 5th, he won't be able to compare to his baseline.

Well I guess I can skip the learning part since I will need to get the car tuned up since I will have stillen CAI+FI CBE + FI LTH.

lean vile.

what are the dangers off running too lean.

Engine goes kaboom.

Seriously? :icon14:

Anytime you are outside of the normal range for any car you run the risk.

Well all it is going to do is show lower numbers across the board if dynoed in 4th.

Sounds mean indeed! :tup:

I've posted my review as well. http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...tml#post507498

:icon18:

Tony,
I am assuming that you are seeing these gains after the ecu has recently been reset, correct? I'm sure most people who do major mods to their vehicle, disconnect the battery. At least I hope they do. That being the case, I'm sure you know that after the ecu loses power, it reverts back to a predetermined, SAFE ignition timing strategy. As the engine runs, it slowly adds back in more timing until it is at its max power potential, while still maintaining no knock. The gains you are seeing is just this; the ecu adding in the timing it REMOVED after being reset.

If this is always the case then when someone installs a CBE and does not reset the ECU then what you are saying does not apply. Here is the bottom line. The ECU is constantly cycling and checking parameters. The theory on some of these new cars is the harder you drive it after the new mod, the faster the ECU will learn the new mod. Here is what it boils down to:

Test A: Dyno the car to get a baseline. Then bolt up a new exhaust system and intake system. Dyno the car immediately after. Do 2-3 runs on the dyno. The gains may be there or they may not. The ECU has had not time to adjust or correct. Do it the same way but now dyno run the car 6-8 times and you will see in that amount of pulls the ECU will start to adjust and now know the new mods. Your gains will be much more substantial.

Test B: Dyno the car and get a baseline. Then bolt up a new exhaust system and intake system. This time take it out and put some miles on the car. Usually 50-100 will work. Then come back in and do 2-3 dyno pulls. Now these dyno pullls should be higher than the first three from test A. Because you drove the car and put miles on it, you allowed for the ECU to learn and therefore should not need as many dyno pulls. But if you want, do a few more pulls for peace of mind.

Personally I do not like to disconnect the battery unless I am doing a major install like the headers or intake. If you disconnect it, it will take longer for the car to learn the new mods. I am not talking out of my hip on this one. I have done it with this car and seen the patterns...

Tony

Fair enough :)