To buy headers or not?
I have AAM non catted test pipes, Z1 ported intake, Takeda short ram intakes, and a Top Speed Pro1 cat back!
I was really debating buying some Megan racing headers (as I found some at a good price $300) and also heard good reviews on their products! My question is. Will I have much of an increase in sound or power, if I’m already running cat less test pipes, cat back, intakes an Z1 intake? Currently am not tuned. But maybe planned in the future. I moniter my A/F-R and it’s not off and car runs very healthy, so tune isn’t really NEEDED at this point. So maybe in the future. I also don’t have a CEL for my test pipes right now. I’m assuming if I removed the stock manifold and pre cats I would def 100% have a CEL and possibly throw A/F-R off. So is it worth it? Or not? :confused: http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/...psph8j7xuv.jpg |
You'll make very little additional power, the labor bill will be high, and Megan racing is eBay garbage.
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Get a different intake or extend the current one. You will make more power per dollar there
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Yep. Shorty headers other than the Z1s are a waste of time. Long Tubes, Z1(which requires DE test pipes), or stock.
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If you really want headers. There are only 3 out there that are worth it. FI, PPS, and the Z1 shorty. I have the FI lth's. They do not stick down any farther then the stock exhaust. Doing the install yourself. The right side should not take you more then 1.5 hrs. The left side will take you about 5 to 6 hrs. The heat shield is a mother to get out. Plus you have to remove the steering shaft to have enough room to get the manifold out and the header in.
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You will get minimal gains from installing shorty headers. The only shorty headers that would be somewhat worth it are the Z1 headers. Unless you are doing the labor yourself labor will be expensive right side should be 1-2 hours and the left side is a PITB probably 5-6 1/2 hours just depends on how fast you work really. One of the best choices you will ever make on your Z is deciding if you want to install headers because they can be hard to unbolt the evil bolt can be frustrating to remove. The steering shaft and heat shield are hard to remove and it takes time. The only full length longtube headers I would recommend would be the PPS or FI longtube headers.
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By going with either the Z1 shorty or lth's. You don't have to mess with the demon bolts. Just remove the stock manifold, and down tubes in one piece. ;) |
Also the 2014+ 370Z has upgraded Nissan headers manifolds from the previous years. You will still gain power from installing headers no matter how minimal they may be. I have seen the FI headers in person they are some quality peices but they will cost you a pretty penny.
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What you get is not worth the effort. But if you're into "yeah it's got headers", then go for it. Put your $ and effort on cooling, suspension or a 4.08 gear instead.
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No recommendation or mention for Motordyne LTH? Just curious.
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ssfirehawk had ppe long lth (I am not sure the before mentions pps are the same) on his supercharged z. I would say that would the only better reason to get lth.
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It already has full cat back and test pipes and is plenty loud / noticeable gains for me. If I was going to pickup the gains I did when I installed test pipes in addition to existing mods. Then cool. But if it’s gonna be just a few HP I think I’ll just skip that. I already have all suspension components I want (Tanabe Coils with stiffer swift springs, upgraded sway bars, bushings, end links and camber / toe arms and bolts) she handles like she’s on rails. And I don’t rag on my car enough to upgrade cooling and my stock sport package gearing is just fine for me. Honestly that was the last bolt on I was considering. My last 370z I had the NST pulley kit on and I liked how much faster it revved. But I honestly don’t think I’ll be installing headers or pulley kit on this one. And those were the last 2 performance based mods I was considering. Maybe a super charger if I can find a good used one for a good deal. Also halfway considering going air ride. But very indecisive on it. |
I made great power with Mortordyne LTH, but it’s a bitch to install idk if it’s any different on a 370 but at least my g37.
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i gained 16whp and 3wtq with my z1 headers.. i already had full exhaust and HFC before i installed them..
Baseline no tune 291whp and 233wtq after header install only no tune 307whp and 236wtq tuned i made 310whp and 240wtq |
I’m new to this platform and I am interested in the horsepower per dollar topic. Of course the answer to “is it worth it” and “what should I do” is dependent on the owner’s goals with the car among several other things, but I’m curious about what modifications make the most improvement in power.
From what I’ve read, a good 3” long tube intake system and a tune are a must along with maybe a solid, free-flowing catback and mid pipes, but what would be the best next step? Headers can range from $800-$2,000 plus labor, but some have said horsepower gain is minimal so would it be best to invest in maybe E85 and/or ported intake manifolds etc? I’m all about horsepower and having a good sounding car, but I also want to give some attention to suspension and handling. Don’t see FI in my future with this car, but I do want to add bolt ons and other things that would make this car even more enjoyable to drive :driving: |
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