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-   -   Test pipes for my first bolt on! (http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaust/121406-test-pipes-my-first-bolt.html)

Zatanna Z 05-03-2017 01:52 AM

Test pipes for my first bolt on!
 
Who here has test pipes? I've been researching them lately and they seem like a mod that would be fun to try out. I've been looking into either fast intentions, Tomei, or Ark test pipes. I've also seen non resonated and resonated ones. What's the difference between those? From those of you who have test pipes did you notice a good gain in power? I know these make your car a lot louder but is it too loud and obnoxious? I'm trying to get just a bit more hp gains and sound. I have a stock exhaust and I think the stock exhaust could definitely have room for improvement in the sound aspect.

Zatanna Z 05-03-2017 01:54 AM

Also anyone here install test pipes themselves? How difficult is it?

ChaseZ 05-03-2017 01:57 AM

ART pipes

Nothing to it. 5 bolts each side

Zatanna Z 05-03-2017 02:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChaseZ (Post 3648461)
ART pipes

Nothing to it. 5 bolts each side

You got ART pipes? I seen some vids. Those seem like some loud mofos lol it's kinda hard to tell how it sounds 100% from a vid tho

brianx42 05-04-2017 02:00 PM

i installed my test pipes last week and i stripped both my o2 sensor because it was all seized up.

EP370z 05-04-2017 03:27 PM

Test pipes do make your car louder

OhioYJ 05-04-2017 03:37 PM

If they are non-resonated, there will be no difference in loudness between brands. Resonators will help cut down on noise, and rasp without hurting performance to a noticeable degree.

A cat-back exhaust is by far easier to install for a DIY'er. I did the Berk high flow cats on my 2016 recently, while it 5000 miles on it, the top two bolts on both sides (the ones everyone calls the demon bolts) were the most fun. Everything else was easy. However those two bolts were a bear until you figure out how to get to them and get them broke loose, and then on my car, I still broke the passenger side one. Both my O2 sensors came out no problem, but it's a new car.

It's also worth noting, generally once you get rid of the factory cats, is when you would have the car tuned (when it's recommended). Since you are still running the factory exhaust you're probably ok.

Jayhovah 05-04-2017 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OhioYJ (Post 3649270)
A cat-back exhaust is by far easier to install for a DIY'er. I did the Berk high flow cats on my 2016 recently, while it 5000 miles on it, the top two bolts on both sides (the ones everyone calls the demon bolts) were the most fun. Everything else was easy. However those two bolts were a bear until you figure out how to get to them and get them broke loose, and then on my car, I still broke the passenger side one. Both my O2 sensors came out no problem, but it's a new car.

Ahh yes the "Demon Bolts"... OP search the forum for that term and you will find a lot of information about the pains of removing the factory cats.

My advice:
1) Soak the demon bolts in penetrating oil the day before (at least)
2) Remove the intakes so you can get straight on them with long extensions. You don't want to be messing around with swivels and wobbles.
3) Use 1/2" drive socket/extensions with either a large breaker bar or a powerful air powered impact wrench.
4) Use a 6 point socket. A 12 pointer will just round the thing off faster.
5) Keep bolt extractors on hand... there is a good chance you will start to round one or both of them off. My drivers side was so frozen on I had to put the bolt extractor and two of us were pulling/stabilizing a huge breaker bar and eventually the bolt just broke off to free the cat.

You can find pics of my demon bolts and the tools I used to get them out in my pic dump thread (check sig).

OhioYJ 05-04-2017 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jayhovah (Post 3649276)
Ahh yes the "Demon Bolts"... OP search the forum for that term and you will find a lot of information about the pains of removing the factory cats.

My advice:
1) Soak the demon bolts in penetrating oil the day before (at least)
2) Remove the intakes so you can get straight on them with long extensions. You don't want to be messing around with swivels and wobbles.
3) Use 1/2" drive socket/extensions with either a large breaker bar or a powerful air powered impact wrench.
4) Use a 6 point socket. A 12 pointer will just round the thing off faster.
5) Keep bolt extractors on hand... there is a good chance you will start to round one or both of them off. My drivers side was so frozen on I had to put the bolt extractor and two of us were pulling/stabilizing a huge breaker bar and eventually the bolt just broke off to free the cat.

You can find pics of my demon bolts and the tools I used to get them out in my pic dump thread (check sig).

X2! I wish I had seen this before I started. I also came to the same conclusion. The only way to get to them is run extensions all the way to the front of the car up near the intake. Ideally with 1/2" extensions to prevent flex, so you aren't fighting yourself with the flex of 3/8 stuff.

My factory catback was out in literally 30 minutes. I spent hours on the cats, because of those bolts. Once those top two bolts were out everything else was easy. Even putting new bolts in for the new cats was easy.


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