I was gonna say, "damn you work fast!"

Back on track, I started working on mounting turbos. Knowing that the driver side will be most difficult due to limited space, I decided to tackle that first. After 6 hours worth of busting and cussing, using sharpies, duck tapes, and with a little bit of luck I managed to get the turbo to about where I want it to be (it was not easy with the car up on jackstands instead of a lift). I was careful not to place the turbo too low, while leaving enough space in the front for air filters. My concern is the wastegate actuator being the lowest point.

Decided to go with Tial Q BOV's instead of Synchronic.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psgzlsppiz.jpg


Tacked the extension pipe


http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psd6ds1a5o.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psjojejsm1.jpg


Turbos sat up as high as it will go, 1/2" clearance from frame and transmission.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psmttoipax.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psrzf4l2qr.jpg



I am working on modifying the wastegate actuator bracket to allow more ground clearance.

Yup that actuator position is no-bueno you can always go external though.

:iagree:

Definitely needs to go external

Nice work...and yes the passenger side is the PITA. When I did this back in the day on my 350z, I figured external wastegates would be the best option:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_5762.jpg


I found that the passenger turbo clocking was difficult but it worked out:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...D/IMG_5764.jpg

You will find that the IC pipes will be a bit of a pain, but it looks like you put the turbos a bit further back than I did, so it may not be too bad.

Good luck with the build, and post a lot of pictures.

Yes it would have been much easier had i went with external gates, but going internal saves me $600. I pushed the turbo farther back so I can run a short filter right off the compressor housing, with a hydro shield. This gives me room to run the charge piping through the wheel well to the IC. As long as i can get the driver side to work, the passenger side should be cakewalk.

I have modified the wastegate bracket to allow the actuator to hug closely to the housing. This pretty much solved the low clearance issue. Its currently sitting right at same level as my resonated test pipes and this is safe enough for me.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psaqq9gf8y.jpg

Yeah but if you scrape a tp you have an exhaust leak, scrape an actuator and you could blow a turbo or a motor.

Yup, external gates would of helped with clearance.

Not exactly that dramatic. If I do hit a large road debris while under full boost, the wastegate bracket will bend toward the turbine housing forcing the flapper door to open and release boost. I don't think it's possible to scrape the actuator over bumps, because it's currently sitting as high as the exhaust. I do get your sentiment though and will take your warning with caution.

Yep not saying it gonna do it but it is a greater chance. Like if ypu scrape it even if it bends and opens patial if it tears the front of the can open it will stick only partially open and may over boost.

Do you plan on adding a support brace to the turbos some how? seems like a good amount of weight hanging off the header. ... I guess you could build a brace off the down pipes kinda like the brace that connects to the cats and trans.

I think Im one of the lucky guys that has a tolerant wife. Not only that she buys me car parts for Christmas! Top speed pro 1 will be used for the turbo back. I will have to shorten it a bit to make it fit the discharge pipe. I needed a cheaper exhaust to hack up and decided on Top Speed. Over the weekend I got the 340lph pump installed and started fitting the 2nd turbo. It's getting closer now.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...pso4x4sbph.jpg

I do plan on modifying the OEM cats brace to attach to the down pipes. It's not so much about the weight that concerns me, it's the vibration because that will crack things. The OEM bracket has rubber bushings to absorb the vibration and I will need that.

Both turbos test fitted. I redid the driver side and got the wastegate actuator to a safer clearance at the cost of clearance to chassis. The passenger side is about the same height and they definitely sit a tad higher than the test pipes. It was a difficult task because I also had to angle the turbo correctly so that i can squeeze in the air filters, and I managed to make them fit. It was not easy when you dont have a car lift to work on. Good thing claustrophobic isnt in my system.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psokqubga5.jpg

Looks good but I would be super worried about hitting something on the wastegate actuator or turbos in general. I'm sure you know how to avoid scraping but sometimes iv been driving and I see like a pine cone or something in the street that I can't avoid and I cringe as I go over it. That would be my only concern. Otherwise this thing looks beast!

Looking good. :tup:

Dead critters play hell with my O2 sensor plugs on the tranny. :shakes head: I've broken both of them a couple of times. Got them zip-tied and taped together. :shakes head:

I love custom builds! Surprised no one has pointed out that actuators sitting way too low!

















just messing haha good luck.

:wtf2:

Don't get them started on that again lol.

Maybe you could fab some sort of bottom cross bracket that will protect it and take the hit first if it really is a concern.

I have the BP kit and have never bottomed out riding on stock suspension.

No real update, just a couple of pics for viewing pleasure. I finished welding up the down pipes today. The other one shows how much of a tight fit with the filter on.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psl94dkltt.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...pstkaadonh.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psmkp6jugt.jpg



I thought of a similar idea when I was under the car today. Instead of a bracket, I'll use metal sheet as an undertray to cover the bottom of the turbos. This will protect it from any random debris and I don't have to worry about water splashing into my air filters either.

^ Exactly what I was thinking. A wastegate actuator skid plate...WASTEPLATE!

couldn't the turbos get really hot if the plate/shield is blocking air flow passing on the turbos?

On a top mount kit the turbo doesnt have any air blowing by it and its sitting in the hot engine bay.

Don't most sit under or in front of the engine, right behind the bumper?
Im only asking.... Usually systems are designed a certain way for most air flow possible....

Most twins for this platform (Z34) have the snails coming off the headers right next to the motor. *Think between the strut towers and the motor block.



*this is just an approximate area and not exact. It will give you a good idea where most twins are mounted.

In mine it sat right there under the bov.

Well boys, shes back down on the ground and I went for a quick spin off boost. Needless to say Im thrilled this project is coming close to be done. More pictures are on the way later.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psq7q4aupr.jpg

Damn! That was quick. Monday dyno then vids? :-)

Top speed pro 1. I dont recommend this exhaust to anyone since fitment was shitty, the driver side tip sat 1.5" lower than the passenger. I had to reweld the hanger to get the height even on both sides.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psglljuyjj.jpg

Then my charge pipes were made.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psdjodzagl.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psxd6cg37b.jpg

I modified the Y pipe to fit the turbo discharge. However I made the mistake of welding one of the o2 bung at the wrong angle and ended up unable to install the sensor. I will plug up the bungs for now and weld another Y pipe down the road.

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psyghcdvey.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...pskbtcz10k.jpg

http://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/...psvjxxpmxk.jpg

Question for uprev users: if i disable the catalyst o2 sensors so that the code doesnt trip the CEL, will I still be able to pass inspection? Wishful thinking but I want to eliminate the post cat sensors all together.

For emissions, it depends what state and county you are in. Here in Chicago, I would fail emissions with the O2 sensors turned off. I would have to turn them on and drive it till it is OBDII ready. Right when it is ready is when there is a small window of opportunity to pass.

1st and 2nd gear ~ 70% throttle with traction control on. Running off wastegate pressure around 9-10 psi (dont have gauge to verify). Timing is fairly conservative at 17. Got air fuel to be around 11.5-12 still rough but I only spent an hour to street tune it. Turbos initially are sooooo laggy, cant even hear blow off valves go off. Then after a couple of pulls to soften up the grease in the center housing, it became so much better in response and noise! Im guessing full boost is before 3.5k right now in 4th gear, but it will get better once I break it in further. It will go sideways with half throttle in 2nd if traction control is off. Just insane.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=bi1NHBzcx...e_gdata_player

Good looking work man! Any dyno/tuning plans?

Sick

I will have to wait until I get the oil cooler installed. I cant do repeated pulls especially when the car isnt moving on the dyno. I still need to add bracings for the turbos and make a skid plate. On top of that, I will have to reweld my Y pipe. My budget isnt exactly unlimited, so things will tend to be slowed down from here on.

Damn your back must be killing you now. Good job dude, im sure you will need rear tires here pretty soon.

Is that how those are supposed to be, or do they just need miles to break in?

love DIY mods! well done!

Can build a nice turbo setup, can only film vertical...

:gtfo2::rofl2:

The turbos were tightly packed with grease from Comp. I could barely spin the shaft with hand when it was off the car. However after about 100 miles or so the grease will spread out and the shaft will spin effortless. I have seen a video documenting at 100 miles the turbo continues to spin for 10 seconds after shut off, and after 500 miles it spun for 25s. I will have to do a quick regrease every 4000-5000 miles or so. Their special high speed grease is expensive as hell though.

:owned:

Iphone 6 is slim as hell its hard to hold it around the edges ;)