Found the thread, the z1 headers were from my old car and even replacing the stock manifold, the car sounds a whole lot. Currently tossing ideas on how to attack this flange swap. Really wanna work with Sasha on this.
I'm glad he expanded his exhaust options for this kit ��

Option 1: buy VHR flange, take it to an exhaust shop, have them cut the DE flange off, have them put back my oem cat and bolt it up, and weld for the flange. I'm guessing this will be some what accurate. Then buy the bp kit.
Option 2: if Sasha can some how send me the down pipe with DE loose flange, and have a way of "marking it, or making a bracket to the transmission, I'll bolt it up the same way and mark it then send it off.
Option 3: Sasha install DE headers on a 370z and go from there
Just my thought for now..

I seen where it made he made 480tq on the 10.5 but they bump the timing down to lower the TQ, but that's not proof it made power.
350z/g35 had issues with their stock manifold trying to make pass 400whp.
I know I'm hard headed. It's just one of those things you feel incomplete knowing it can help, even if it was a tad bit.

It's just really not worth the effort when you can get the same effect with a bit more boost or timing. Maybe if you were going to try and set some records, but the kit as it sits can make plenty more power than you'll want on the stock block.

^^^THIS^^^

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...1d1aaa5a84.jpg

Power is not the issue. This tune is extremely conservative. A few degrees of timing and I could easily make 550plus. I just don't feel comfortable with that level of power on a stock block and 93oct.

I guess when Sasha has the v2 kits available, I may see :)

He'll likely build a few kits over the Canadian winter assuming the demand is there. Gives him time in the man cave away from the wife during those long winters:rofl2:

There is no reason one should be messing around with aftermarket headers for this kit. The OEM headers are more than sufficient, and flow a lot more than anybody will need for a street car.

Messing around with flanges and what not is just a big unnecessary headache, which will not contribute to performance gains.


As for production of more kits...I am starting the cutting process for 15-20 kits next week. The good'ol assembly line is getting dusted off, and will be in full operation within a couple of weeks.

A LOT MORE KITS ON THE WAY!

the excitement is real :)

The power OF BOOST is REAL!!


Again, Thanks Shasha for a awesome kit and lots of fun. :happydance:

YzGyz:driving:

I may deal with the headache. Sasha, when your in production and I have my deposit down, can you send me the DE flange and down pipe loose? Also would like the kit to mate up with the motordyne exhaust.

I recently had a local customer come back for a fuel return kit install from CJ-Motorsports. Install went smooth, and the fuel return kit is of top notch quality.

This customer also wanted me to have a look at the second charge pipe from the turbo going to the FMIC (V2.0 and V1.5 kit only), as it was making contact with one of the sub-frame bolts. The issue here (for the most part) I have found to be the after market, stainless steel clutch line. It keeps constant pressure on the pipes from the top, causing some sag.

The solution to this is rather simple. Take the bolt that goes in from the bottom, and reverse it, putting the nut on the bottom:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psca0jjaou.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...pstq9dds8h.jpg

This creates an additional 1/2" clearance, and the pipe simply can not make contact with the bolt after the mod.



Now, on to new business. I am starting the cutting of pipes for a new production run of the V 2.0 kits. The plan is to build about 20 kits this winter, and have them out the door to those that wish to purchase.

I do not plan on starting any sort of a list, since in the past this didn't really do anything for anybody. I found that 50% of those on "the list" backed out for one reason or another...understanding that financial situations can change rather quickly in today's economy. So, I will keep you guys up to day (for those that are still following), and hope to start taking deposits before the end of the year.

Deposits will only be taken once the kits are 90% complete. I do not feel right taking any money from anybody without being close to shipping the product.

Sasha. Maybe I'm missing something but what bolt are you referring to as having to flip?

This is the sub-frame bolt, below the driver side exhaust manifold.

My sub frame bolt on my passenger side wth my v1 kit was coming in contact with the rubber coupler from my turbo. So I measured it, cut it, cleaning it real good then re-installed. That solved my issue. But I had some time to do that. Flipping the bolt is much easier haha