9:1...

I like it now cuz I don't really have lag....

well what are you waiting for lol get that kit in there. :tiphat:

Things are definitely going to get a little more laggy but I don't think you are going to be disappointed. As soon as that 6266 (I think that's what your running?) Hits 15-16psi+ you will forget all about the lag! I think if I had my choice though I would of went with a custom 10:1 if possible.

Check out my build thread! Car is under construction!

:iagree:

oh i have :yum:

If you can go 10:1 then you should. It will be more fun out of boost and will get things spooling better. Im sticking with 11:1 for those reasons.

I'm fine with alil...I wanted 9:1 for more boost..not worried to much about off boost performance. Just don't want it to be terrible lag...If that makes sense. ..I will never run my car from idle to redline...

I don't think that. It all depends on kit, tune, and engine set up.

Most single turbos don't spool as fast as twins. That's my point when you said, "I don't spin".

A properly sized turbo (like the 6266) will not be laggy. Singles get a bad rep as being that way because guys in Evo's and STI's are running giant turbos and are going for 800whp out of a 4 cyclinder engine. Those things are laggy as hell.

The fact that we have 3.7 liters of displacement makes us singles comparable to twins. Twins will still spool the fastest though. Now if they weren't just so damn hard to install.......

Twin scroll. Changed the game

I start the build on the twin mid mount in about a week and half. ..should solve all the problems. ..

Are any of us actually working today?..lol..

He'll no:happydance:

:iagree:

but

lag is the only way to explain WOT at 30mph to 170mph 0 spinning.

6266 is a great turbo but 9:1 makes a huge different. That's where the logic is coming from.
I am working. comeatmebro :happydance:

There are probably already a good dozen 10-second 370z already out there, just waiting for their owners to put the right tires on and prove it!

The 9:1 hasn't happened yet...

:iagree:

:shakes head:

opps miss read.

Work? Whats that

:rofl2::rofl2:


Neverenough spent 6k and ran micky with 15" drag wheels just to break under a 1.5 60ft.

Best we got out of my car was like a high 1.6 I think.. Then it broke. lol

thread? how in the hell did he fit 15's

It cost me about $1000 for my 15s and 28s with little 350z brakes. The car had 1.6s in it I am sure, I just unfortunately didnt get enough practice before losing my clutch.

350z base model brakes bolt right up and clear 15s.

Base brakes will fit a 15" rim in the rear IIRC

wow the 350z must have teeny tiny brakes I thought they would be bigger than that. does the e-brake still work?

Yup it works, same drum style ebrake its all compatible

i took step by step pics of the conversion if anyone needs them. There isnt much to it though. The only modification you have to make is some trimming of the dust shield to clear the calipers (and the wheels... LOL even the dust shields are too large to fit inside a 15).

If i remember correctly it was 1.48ish.
He tubed out/rolled the finders.
6k was inculding all the suspension mods. It was Sam's 1st stroked 350z in the New Orleans area.

also do you need to change the rear lines or will the sport brake lines conect?

another 10 second VTR 350Z - YouTube

he did a 1.66 60ft still ran 10.6. He must have been a little to heavy on the throttle coming out of the whole, but have the top end power to break 10sec with ease.
same set up, but had skinnies in the front

I switched to stoptech's rear braided lines (sold for 370z sport brakes) and it was a nice direct fit. The stock lines are weird with the brackets and little pipes, I am not sure if they would work. I left them on the sport calipers and when I switch back and forth the lines stay on the calipers.

How I put on 350z rear base brakes and 15s with ET Street Radials:

Remove stock brakes, remove axle nut, remove wheel bearing, remove dust shield.

draw a cut-line to clear calipers. I used a piece of -6 hose and tucked it against the lip as a guide for the sharpie:

http://i.imgur.com/bQbUkpV.jpg?1


cut along line:

http://i.imgur.com/Bwjq23n.jpg


clearance required for calipers:

http://i.imgur.com/DYdz7Fz.jpg?1


personally I filed off sharp edges and repainted the dust shields, but if you dont care you can just put them back on.

admire your 15s (28s on them for me):

http://i.imgur.com/p5mhzV7.jpg


admire your tiny brakes:

http://i.imgur.com/LGIiFZi.jpg


admire your xmas tree (if you went with 28s instead of 26s):

http://i.imgur.com/YVgMUOl.jpg


looks tougher than it is:

http://i.imgur.com/KXmTLlU.jpg

Phunk love the sticker :tup:

I'm making you a thread for that post.

I guess I should mention that if you do not have extended wheel studs then you will need them for most drag wheels, along with shank style lug nuts for the wheels, and pass through lugs for your normal wheels.

Theres Phunk educating the hell out of us again. Gotta love when he chimes in. :tup:

You now have a thread in in the wheel's and tire section for that. Any extra input would be great to go there then we can have a mod sticky it.

:confused:

Thought we we're talking about FI.

you guys have been going back and forth about traction for like 6+ pages. figured i would share some info on how to solve it.