Surprised to hear this. My car has trouble putting down the power even in 2nd. Running 305 PSS's and whiteline diff bushings.

:iagree:

Mine will get sloppy as hell in 2nd, and I'm probably only putting down ~480whp or so.

I always wonder whats really going on with traction. I have around 500 and I spin through 1st but hook up pretty hard in 2nd, in summer.

And 10 lbs on E85 with 16* timing is plenty to put me in the range of "I should be losing traction".

hmmm. i also have 500+ and i have traction in all but 1st and part of second.
now i do have a wheel hop problem i am chasing but once she is rolling shes gone.
i dont think 500 even 550 is to much power for the street, out of boost the car drives just like stock

see there is a problem here you have guys who only give a shiz about putting down power in a drag, then you have guys who actually want to drive the car and use that power like a normal car. can the z be set up to put down 500hp in a straight line under semi controlled conditions? sure but it doesn't mean that it isn't going to be a total bitch to use that power while actually driving. thats why when robispec took the blue meanie out in a time attack against the greedy tt car put together by one of the magazines his lap times were only .1 of a second slower. This car can't really use more than 450whp even when fully set up.

Guess I'll chime in...First is worthless, I get most of 2nd if the temperature is above 90, 3rd gear I hook up unless temperatures are below 60. Haven't seen temps in the 40's yet.

Best DynoJet number guess is 480whp/450wtq @ 10psi. I do have the diff bushing upgrade which seems to help.

Absolutely. There's a huge difference once you start turning the wheel in regards to traction. I take it your building your NA beast for this very reason?

Pretty much it's more controllable/consistent, another 40hp and I will be happy but I still ned to get used to what I have now.

you have to take the good with the bad. i mean if you want to drive the car like normal then dont boost it. we all know you cant just add 5-600hp to a stock car and expect it to run normal with all stock suspension.
redo the suspension to match the power and the car will run like a race car

but then expect to lose so of that comfort you just have to find that zone.

when i had my mustang i made about 550rwhp or so and over did the suspension to support 800 or so hp and it was horrible to drive on a day to day

Damn. Aren't you blowing the old NA record out of the water? How do you plan to add the 40 more? That thing will be faster than most 350Z's with FI.

Himitsu

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At 534/496 1st is useless 2nd have to feather and 3rd is scary fun but I've managed to keep it straight as possible while sometimes spinning. Anything 600+ will be perfect for what I'm looking for. Roll racing. I'm on coils and a quiaffe diff. Has helped a lot. I believe with the right suspension and diff AND gears 600-700 is a great street car.
I don't really have the time to go thru the process to get on a track for laps. Would love to but, calling a few buddies and hitting up deserted streets is much easier for us.

What's you rim and tire setup?

Actually is mild aggressive setup. 20x10 20x11.5 255 fronts 275 rears. Around -2.5 camber. Started off as show car then powa came on later.

Yep with a N/A build you're powerband is crazy good. Probably feels like 500whp with that tack slinging 8k RPM.

Yes and no. If you're full throttle you will blow all 3 gears with normal street tires.

I for one can get traction peddleing 1st and 2nd gear catching at the end around50ish MPH. Just my experince.:driving:

10psi 480whp/450wtq is the perfect street use power. Just enough to run decent 11's with good driver or enough to blow the doors off a C7 on a 40 to 120mph pull.:owned:

It's your build, your goals. VQ37HR don't need to be built.

Your running a 275 stretched on a 20x11.5" wheel at -2.5 degrees camber? You must have low standards for acceptable traction.

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You bringin the Z back to its roots and going all Japanese on me now?..lol.

Guess Ill have to wait and see. :excited:

It blows the doors off a lot more than a C7, not that I would know :ugh2:

Seems he has no budget in order to be the odd ball smashing FI cars.:happydance:

Nah id be typing in hiragana if i wanted to do that lol. Check the build thread, next rebuild its getting turned up to 9k probably going to do internals then too

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I'm running a 275. I thought maybe you had squeezed a lot more tire in a G and I was getting :excited:

Why did Nissan go and hamstring the G? Guess it's R-compound time:driving:

Yep. Even with my 8 PSI tune I took out a C6 on a 200ft, and kept up with a GTS Viper.

Works for me. I explained how i drive and have never had any problems i couldn't handle. Yes, they're stretched somewhat not that much. Also being a show stance car that is the obvious setup i wanted to run.
I think the quaife diff helped out a lot.

i guess your tires suck then cuz the ones that i have hold mine just fine and i run the piss out of it everyday....today on the way home i was running 13psi and did a pull against my wife in my talon and still didnt blow off the tires (after tires are warm) and went from 30 to 170 no spins...

My uncle is one of the owners of jegs and when i was younger i raced legend cars..we only did 4 to 8 races a year.i always said it had to much power...he said no car has to much power it just means your driving skill has to improve....he would always say control the car dont react to the car...is what i'm trying to say is we r not in a honda you dont just slam it to the floor and hope it goes where yu want...

Eh to each his own i would rather have a car that can easily hook up what it has than one i have to contantly hold back. A 450hp z runs mid to low 12's a 700hp z runs low 12's. Up to 125mph its the same ****. One is just a lot easier to drive.

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For track you're absolutely right. But again that's just not what I'm into. For what i like a 450hp Z would get left in the dust, even with my tire setup. My quaiffe diff has complimented my power levels very well. Stable power to both wheels and i don't go sideways as easy anymore. 1st is useless 2nd is difficult but 3rd i can manage at WOT. I have ordered a solid bushing which should help with traction even more. With coils, quaiffe, bushing AND taller gears (3.55 was it?) I think these cars would hook a lot better.
Even with my mild setup, after quaiffe install was night and day difference.

I garauntee that if you got the same type of tires you have now in 19's on a factory width rim or maybe even lighter wheel and pulled some camber and raised the car to no more than an inch lower than stock you would have much better traction. But you would lose show appeal. The rear suspension has a camber curve the lower you go the faster it gains camber when the rear dips under acceleration, also a stretch on the tire tends to lower contact at the center which is the largest part of the contact patch. It also stresses the sidewalls making a highspeed blow out more likely. Do what you want it's up to you but just so you know it is much less safe and you are wasting a lot of your tires grip.

:confused: I'm running normal 245/19 street tries that are 10.5 inches wide. At 13 PSI you're applying 550 to 600whp.
A) You're either running slicks or very warm drag radials
B) Have VDC on
C) Roll throttling letting off before you spin

Either way @ 13 PSI 0 spin at 30 to 170 is great, but I was implying 0 to 50mph which is something total different. If you can do a 1.6 60ft 0 spinning then post a video and teach me the ways O great one. If you can't then your statement is total irravanlent no offensive.:tiphat:
If you're compaing drag its all about the 60ft. You can obtain faster times with a lower trap great 60ft v.s. bad 60 foot but high trap. Just means your HP is doing the work over the lack of driving.

Everyone here i'm sure is a great driver and im the last person to give advice. Just pointing out facts. At 0ft i'm spinning, not by much cause im peddleing or roll throttling but still spinning. Anyone that can 0 spin in our cars using normal street tires you're 60ft is poo or you're a awsome driver. :tup:

Personally, like a said before. 10 to 11ish PSI 480whp/450wtq is perfect for the street.

Fast Intentions TT 370Z *World Record 1/4 mile* - YouTube

Look at the way Terribleone broke 11.4 1/4 on stock block 550whp@12psi??(guessing)

He hooked just fine by rolling the throttle and feeling out the car, but I bet you he spun for the 1st 30ft(not by much but he did).

That's all i'm implying. Spinning is spinning no one can launch a car properly without a little bit or you're not at the car's protential. just my 2 cents.

if i remember correctly he wasn't the one driving his car for those runs.

i think it was jnaut driving?

but yes the launch and 60" time is everything in getting a good ET.

my little N/A Z only lost by .02 the one night to a viper based on him spinning tire on the launch when we all know that race should have been me seeing tailights fade in the distance lol

He must have been a really BAD driver :stirthepot:

:iagree:

This run was done on 10PSI. Right around 530-550WHP.

InI think everyone has agreed that first spins all day as far as my comment was to the fact someone said if I was full throttle I would spin 1st through 3rd and I said that's not true....I never said anything about 1st I said u can hook in second...so I guess your quote to me is irrelevant no offense.

:iagree:

:confused:

OK, let me clearify. You can do a roll of 30mph in 2nd gear and reach 170mph with 0 spinning. Correct?

Cause all my comments we're about dead stop 60 ft.

From what you're telling me you can go full throttle at a 30mph roll with 550 to 600whp and have 0 issues with traction.

tbh at 8 psi G37 that wieghts 800 more pounds(me). I'm still blowing the wheels off in most of 2nd.

To answer my question with a question.

What tires are you running, rear end ratio, and suspension? No where i'm calling you a lier just like know how to improve my own traction.:hello:

1.yes
2.i was reply when someone said to me I would spin my tires 1st thru 3rd...I think this is a miss understanding between us..
3. I have 500 whp on base tune not sure 13psi.
4. Tire= whatever is stock on 2014 ray..I think it help there is around 3k miles
everything else was stock...I mite get in trouble but ill post a video of 2 pulls against a 500 whp cobalt. ..
now I have be coilovers with 12k front 10k rear and it's even better I think

I took the video down....

Oh Man

What's up. You it think it well get hit...I'll take it down if so...I'm just trying to show it gets traction. ...