Hey Jay ,

incase we forgot my story as it was a few years ago.

What was the WHP? 465
What wtrq? 330
How long did it run before it died? 3DAYS!!!
Was it ever 100% running right before it died? Yes, long story
What kit? Stillen SC
What PSI? 13 PSI
What was the cause if you know? Cyl 3 went bye,
What year was the car? 2011 G37X Coupe


Long story was a drove the car for 6 months @ 412 WHP and 300WTRQ, had some issues with the SC ingesting water, then TB harness broke, fuel pump feed line split cause it was wrong. Pretty much all this happened the same time. So I upgraded the impeller and got a retune from Kaizen. The car ran great for 3 days the blew up.

Not to revisit the whole story but I think the tune was part of the issue on top of the tuner making multiple WOT pulls on the dyno and telling me the car is way down of fuel. They probably could have diaq'd it better and making WOT pulls before finding the feed line was split to the fuel pump. Hell I suggested that over the phone after they had the car for like 2 weeks!

I also upgraded everything under the sun and still failed :(

Don't you think it could have been intake temp related? 13psi and not knowing temps....? :eekdance:

+1
We now do this to the rings on very high compression natural aspiration racing engines as well. Improved oil consumption, improved high RPM ring seal (flutter), and less ring failures with this gap strategy, even though it seems to go against conventional wisdom. We use very thin, light tension rings.

I asked this question in 2014 and unfortunately I joined the club of blown motors this year! Was your tuner named Rob by chance?


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What was the WHP: NO DYNO
What wtrq: NO DYNO
How long did it run before it died: 4 Months
Was it ever 100% running right before it died: It seemed strong and fine with slight gremlins
What kit: BP v2 PT 6766
What PSI: 14 PSI
What was the cause if you know: Cyl 1 ringlands broke and dropped rings
What year was the car: 2014 370Z Sport
Tuner: SEb at Specialtyz
Software: Ecutek
Fuel: Flex ( E81 at time of failure )

The tune was complete and I was happy, I did notice that I would have issues starting after driving somewhere and it sitting for 30 minutes or so.. (hydrolock)? I also thought I was smelling E85 in the oil but I could not confirm this. I was doing a roll in Mexico against a gtr and although I won I noticed slight smoke. I pulled off to a gas station and could not find any smoke so I drove home and the next morning I started it and it was smoking profusely. A teardown revealed cyl 1 ringland and rings dropped but no denotation that was obvious on the piston.

So to Jax4557 and ANMVQ, would the engine have been saved and not have blown up if you guys had forged pistons and rods?

Curious to know because I soon will be trying for around 500whp with a SC kit, and I may have a little bit of a budget left to add forged pistons and rods.

But I had normally left them out because I was told by several people including a FI rep that it isnt required for me as I am not going over 600whp.

But reading these peoples stories of blown motors is starting to worry me a lil.

Unless you are going A2A, then no they won't help. The problem with the Stillen kit is the ECU has no clue what IATs are so it doesn't know how to compensate. Having forged pistons won't help a bad design.

Tap manifold between the TB's

Specialty Z MAP Sensor Kit - 370Z/G37
http://specialtyz.com/shop/media/cat...sensor_kit.png

Dont the MAF sensors handle the temp readings or with the stillen kit those go away? My tuner had the temp on each bank and my upgraded MAP sensor readings?

Well I am going Gamma kit, so it already has A2A or I may hold till RJM SC hits the market.

So ppls motors blowing with the Stillen kit is because of it's bad temp reading design?

Please don't take this in the wrong way. You're ringland resulted in my opinion to no proper dyno tuning & pushing such high PSI.

Un-top you were pushing a bigger than normal turbo to this kit, with out the proper fuel needed to the engines needs.

I have studied your YouTube videos, one can clearly see you sometimes running lean up top. Again in my opinion, but if you had the proper boost cut via ecutek you would have figured to upgrade to more fuel needed to run properly at that boost level.

Remember these engines were not built to with stand these power levels. The key ingredients is necessary for them to last.

Sorry to hear of you're lost. I too am pushing mine's & have saved in case I experienced the same results.

At the end of the day we all love to push the limits.:tiphat:

I appreciate the input and I dont know what happened and you could be spot on but I will point a few things out you are wrong on so it can help use all possibly come to a better conclusion on these failures across the board.

I am running ecutek and do have AFR protection and overboost injector cut enabled and configured by seb ( one of the best in the business ).

I also have knock warning turned on and saw it a few times when getting into the throttle in 4 gear a little to soon in the rpm range ( Learning the car )

I am running a Aeromotive 340 pump with 1150cc injectors and a cjm se-1e fuel return system incorporating a flew fuel setup so I believe my fuel is fine.

Lastly the AFR you are seeing are with E85 and are going to be different than you typical 93 octane tune as well as I had a leak in the initial stages and my wideband was off a bit during off throttle after a pull

I am pinning my failure up to a casting defect or existing issue with the cylinder 1 ringland area and of course pushing the limits to 14 PSI for 4 months probably didn't help it. I have seen a few people pushing the BP kit to this level with no issue so I think it was a one off issue in my case. My replacement motor also is seeing closer STFT numbers on bank to bank so I think that tells me the rings were already leaking oil into the cylinder day one of tuning.

Where are your MAF located though?. Adding the SpecZ 3bar MAP sensor at the manifold gives much more accurate readings.

I'm making a custom charge pipe so I can move the MAF right before each TB, and they won't be measuring the same air then either. I'm also ditching the coolant lines to the TB's, no use heat soaking them more than they already are.

I too started out with the Aeromotive 340 running a e70 blend and at 12psi the pump just could not provide enough fuel giving the z AFR cut while in boost. Had her upgraded to a Walbro 450 and she now runs Nice & Rich under wide open throttle at 12psi. I can now even run a higher blend of "e" since upgrading to the larger fuel pump.

With you running 14psi you definitely need to find a way to add more fuel to you're new build. You should hit up Charles from CJ Motorsports as he is working on a twin Walbro 450 pump setup.

Those twin Walbros are going to move some serious amount of fuel! :excited:

Seb has been recommending the Walbro 485 for me even though I won't be running e85. Just doing my install right now, but have the si upgrade from Vortech and also 9psi pulley - I'm going to start with the stock 8 pulley first and see where I end up. Hopefully the frozen boost IC, BOV and MAF/MAP changes will let me get into the higher boost numbers that the setup is capable of, but want to ease into it and make sure no boo boos along the way lol

I can't imagine I will need more pump than that, but good to know Charles is doing a twins setup if need be. :tup:

EDIT: What regulator are you using?

Sub'd!

Based on your responses I think you should do a lot more research about this platform before you decide it's right to go FI. There's mountains of good information about this platform here from the many of us that have walked this path. Don't rush in or you'll end up on the popped motor list.

I was under the impression gamma/Gtm made sturdy and great performing kits, wheather it be SC or TT. Am I missing something?

Every kit on the market has its own issues. You need to do the research and figure out what you are willing to live with.

Did you upgrade the stock fuel pump wiring to accommodate the added voltage draw with the aem 340l pump. Just curious because this was the pump I was going to go with when i switch over to e85.

It's recommended to do the fuel pump relay above 500whp regardless of fuel pump used.

What is the fuel pump relay?

Is that something like the CJM S1.SE fuel system?

Forced Induction motors that have died
 

Do your research. Every question you've asked is covered on this forum already. Use the search function.

A fuel pump relay kit is a modification to upgrade the wiring to the fuel pump. Larger fuel pumps pull more current and the factory fuel pump wiring circuit will become a "restriction".

The relay/wiring upgrade is a standalone modification from the rest of the fuel system. Although the CJM Billet Top Hat really finishes off the relay/wiring upgrade because it uses larger terminals through the fuel tank flange. Using the stock top hat means that your wiring upgrade still has to bottle neck down to fit through the stock fuel pump wiring connector.

Did we hear of maybe 3 blown boosted engine's? That's pretty few for 1.5years of thread....

So without the relay kit, would it cause low throttle voltage?

I'm having trouble with low voltage and trying to figure it out any *info would be appreciated.

Until it happens to you! :wtf2:

it would be unrelated to the throttle. At least, I cannot imagine it having any adverse side effects on other systems in the vehicle. But I am no electrical engineer. Without the relay kit on an upgraded fuel pump, the fuel pump wiring will be overheating and could be preventing the fuel pump from operating at full system voltage, reducing its output.

I have run the stock wiring (in my personal car) with an Aero 340 and with a Walbro 400 and the wires get impressively hot. Surprising it never blew a fuse or melted a relay but there is no doubt that the pump is not operating at its peak like this. I did start melting the plastic around the terminals on the stock fuel pump hat.

Your question about low throttle voltage Doesn't have anything to do with the explanation that Mr."Phunk" gave about upgrading the wiring to the fuel pump/pumps...It's about preventing a restriction in the wiring;that would keep plenty of juice to the pump/without overheating the circuit...(Look up OHM's LAW & Study).
Another thing you can research is a good (Wire Sizing Chart) to let you know the recommended size wires to be used in a circuit-pending amperage draw & length of wire in an automotive circuit.
I know this is just barely scratching the surface of electrical connection's,wiring,relay's,voltage,amperage,etc.. .& i apologize for getting off topic with the electrical conversation;as i know this is about (FI) engine's.
Also Voltage is used in different automotive circuit's,sensor's in different value's....not alway's battery voltage.
Good Explanation Mr."Phunk"

Just like anything, when building a house you want to add the supporting mods to the structure to ensure longevity.

Fuel management is the same for our platforms when running BOOST. On my build, I sometimes experienced fuel starvation while running the Aeromotive 340 pump even at only 10 PSI running a mixed e85 blend. One advantage of having a fuel content analyzer, I would cut the blend to e68-e70 to keep things happy until we upgraded to the new CJM Top Hat along with a Walbro 450. Now she sits nice and rich under wide open throttle even while utilizing pure e85 up top to red line.:driving:

To answer both question I think air temp had something to do with it, but the tune and the way"YES" Rob the tuner went about things probably had more to do with it. I was'nt making an WOT pull went my car starting knocking, I was getting of the hw " off ramp" to pick my with up at school. In the three days a drove it maybe made 3 WOT pulls :/. I didn't beat on the car.


You had you car tuned in MA Jay?

He tuned my car in Florida, he's good friends with the shop owner here. I'm not saying he was responsible for my blown motor, that was a cracked radiator and being stuck in crazy traffic but he never had my car where I felt it was right. Seb had my car running better within the first couple flashes.


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I'm sure he was, :(. Sorry man, Like I said wish I knew about Seb 3+ years ago when all my crap happened

Better add mine.
 

What was the WHP? 443 (mustang)
What wtrq? 373
How long did it run before it died? 2months (1 day after tune )
Was it ever 100% running right before it died? No
What kit? BP 6266 1.5ar ,
What PSI? 7.5
What was the cause if you know? Overboost due to vacuum leak. 23.7psi
What year was the car? 2015



I had installed the BP kit and it took awhile to work out heat related gremlins such as melted trans harness and melted filter. I "thought" it was over. Took it to dyno after everything was buttoned up hoping to tune for 12psi. It kept spiking at 16.5 on the dyno so the tuner turned off the ebc assuming I had a BC solenoid problem. finished the tune at wastegate using the 7.5 springs and yielded the above listed numbers. I was "Ok" with it since I knew I needed to work out some issues. The very next day I take it for a spin and it felt "Very good" better than it had since driving it only on the base map. On my way home I had an opportunity in the form of a wide open road. I WOT'd it and it felt beyond good all the way through 4th gear. At the top of fourth it felt like a 200 shot nitrous hit for about 3 second. Then there was silence and wind noise. No exhaust, no thumping or clanking, just silence and wind. Took me a bit to absorb it but I located a 7.5kmile engine from another 15' Nismo and started over. When the install was done, the oil pan from the old engine was filled with shattered metal. Looked like a silver prospector borrowed it. After nursing the car from the shop to my house I noted I was still getting spikes of 13-14psi on wastegate without EBC plumbing. Pulled all the vacuum to replace it and found a hole burned in the line to the passenger side wastegate. After replacement boost was stable with zero spikes over wastegate pressure. Put EBC plumbing back and all thats left is to fine tune the EBC.

Dang. Its a shame all that time and money spent replacing the motor was due to a simple leaky hose. I bet it felt great for those few seconds though :mad:

Best advice for a turbo build, go nuts on heat management

You ain't lying Jwick. Here's the culprit. It burned touching heat wrap on the manifold.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...f1e77bf1ec.jpg

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Like I was on a rocket launch. It was awesome......for a couple seconds.

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Crazy. I'll definitely be paying very specific attention to all my lines and all that when I'm buttoning up the SC install.

Man, that really sucks!

What was the WHP? 356
What wtrq? i don't remember but I think it was high 200s
Was it ever 100% running right before it died? it was running but 2 things were reoccurring
1. Car would randomly go into limp mode. I'd pull over turn it off for a few seconds and turn it back on and it was good
2. It would randomly go into "fail safe" mode. I would lose almost all throttle, would only rev about 200 rpm. Again, I would just turn it off for a few seconds and turn it on again and it would be fine till it happens again
What kit? Stillen
What PSI? 8 psi (stock pulley)
What was the cause if you know? No idea, happened last week. nice big hole in the block
What year was the car? 2009
Mileage on the car when kit installed? I wanna say it was like 55k or a little more
Mileage when motor blew? 69k