There are currently no known standalone ems' that are setup to run the VVEL system in the 370z. While some systems are probably powerful enough to do it, anyone that is not at the advanced skill level of engine management system configuration and calibration would not be a good candidate for attempting it. Realistically, the application will need big time direct support from the ems manufacturer. If anyone wants to run a standalone, I would recommend supplying the manufacture a detailed article on the VVEL system and asking if they feel like taking it on.. And I wouldn't believe their answer until they have actually looked at what VVEL is.

from what ive seen e85 always adds power on any car with a tune. it always just comes down to price though. for me (where im at parts wise), if what you say is true (no pump needed), then 1000cc ID injectors for like $700 for 10-15hp is worth it! 15hp might be a stretch but ive seen others with 10hp no problem.

the seals do worry me though. if they arent Vitron? then E85 will eat it. older cars get "the black sludge" where E eats everything!! i dont think you can tell this on a 370 though since we dont have a return fuel system. on older cars or return system cars its really easy to see as your sock will be solid black with tar, or it wont.

im getting a tune soon with the ported everything then again later with E and injectors and possibly fuel pump. like everything on a Z just sit back and wait a while haha.

PS...how hard is it to pull the lower manifold? can i leave the fuel rails attached to the car or do i have to pull it out of the way and relieve the pressure in the lines?

what he said I know motec has done it but last i checked it was north of $16k setup for it. vvel is easy enough to lock out, and then you have a wide selection of standalones, but it is definitley a race only option for sure.

lol you dont own a subi do you? those guys run 100-115% IDC all the time. at least with subi the IDC isnt each injector by itself. its a % of all and i cant remember how to put it. i used to know everything with them cars but its been like 2 years really talking about them so i forget. their IDC was a good 15-20% off though. if the Z is anything like it then you might be ok for high 90's and still have plenty of head room.

You will not want to run 1000cc's on stock pump without boost. You will atomize like crap and will have more like a jet stream then a mist and you probably wont be able to hold an idle.

You will have to pull the rails and you will have to relieve the pressure. There is a hardline that connects the feedline to the rails that needs to be taken off. It is super easy to access though. Its right in front.

Well I have always seen that anything over 80 is just a gamble. Yes you can run them at 100%. But that is unsafe and if your pump doesn't hold a perfect voltage, which it wont, then you are just waiting for trouble. My tuner wont let me take mine over 80 and he knows his shiz.

I have to disagree. At idle any pump is running normal voltage. ID 1000's are the best at holding a perfect flow no matter the rpm. They run better than OEM on almost any car. I'm not worried to even run 2000's from them. I've seen it a million times. Even on the highway at 80mph under normal driving no pump is running more than another, it's not needed since you're just cruzing.

Anything on this car? Because I can't name one subi that doesn't run high 90's and half run 100% easy as most do on a stage 2 tune.

Phunk, will you replace the gasket under the lower mani to heads or just reuse?

I am not sure if the OEM orings are Viton or what. But I have not had any show any failure. The large fuel pump module oring in my car is original. The injector orings looks good, and the oring that came out of the fuel damper fitting looks fine as well. I havent seen any deterioration of anything in the fuel system.

The fuel rails have to be removed to gain access to the bolts for the lower manifold. Well, at least they do with my billet rails, I cannot remember now with the stock ones. But I am pretty sure even with the stock rails.

I reuse those gaskets generally unless they get in bad shape.

Are your injectors at 80% at idle? I didnt say anything about idle voltage.

Anything on this car? Yeah, or theres no way I would run E85 and 1000s.

Run yours at 100% on a boosted application for a few months and report back please.

interesting the oring looks fine in the damper yet tar is in the system. somethings getting eaten up. i think ill do e85 as needed and 93 the rest of the time. should hold off any damage indefinitely.

good to know; i didnt want to spend $42 on new ones. just hope the system is easy to bleed. i hate bleeding fuel all over the place.

ok once again im asking if youre talking about this car or a subi? youre going back and forth or not at all. im being very clear which cars im talking about. i havent tuned my z yet so i dont know the IDC or how nissan monitors the IDC. subis monitor very crudely which is why they all run 90% to +100% IDC and yes they are boosted without issue.

lol why not? 1000's plenty if head room and 2000's run fine without issue on multiple peoples cars i know.

and you didnt have to say anything about idle voltage per say. you clearly said "You will atomize like crap and will have more like a jet stream then a mist and you probably wont be able to hold an idle." that means youre saying the OEM pump at idle wont be flowing the correct voltage and will run like crap. i say youre wrong because at idle a stock pump and an aftermarket pump will be the same, so explain how it will run bad? the tune will pull back the fuel within the injectors and any car with ID injectors whether 600's 1000's 2000's etc with any pump will idle fine as ive seen it happen before.

Ive bled mine 3 times. You will get about an ounce or two of fuel from the connection of the feedline to the hardline junction.

Then it depends on if you can pull the rails off with the injectors still in them or not. If you can you can drain all the fuel the rails are holding at one time. If not, fuel will dump from the injector mount off the rail onto your lower plenum, but can be soaked up easily.

I am talking Nissan since that is the forum were on.

+100% is impossible. That's like saying you filled a 10 oz cup up with 11 oz of liquid. Its not possible. When you see an IDC of 105% it is just a mis-calculation. At 100% that injector never closes. They cannot open or close fast enough to make a complete cycle. Your injector pin will float at 100% and this is bad as you cannot control it.

Basically, anything over 80% becomes UNSTABLE. The injector is not capable of completely shutting and then opening at the requested time to spray in the exact amount of required, or asked for fuel.

It all boils down to inconsistency. At 80% or under you are guaranteed a consistent spray, anything over you don't know what you are getting.

Injectors have came a long way recently and I believe ID's state that they can hold 90% DC at 6,000 rpms. But we rev to 7,500 so they will not be stable.

so lets revive this lol... i'm n/a and plan on going e85. according to a shop here in atlanta, i'm looking to gain 10-20whp from going to e85. they stated that stock gtr injectors would be all that i would need.

I would agree that injectors are probably all you will need for a naturally aspirated E85 370z.

As for power increases, that might depend on how far they are able to push your ignition timing advance. I believe someone around here recently switched to E85 and their tuning software was unable to allow them to advance the timing enough to take advantage of the fuel, providing them no power gains.

i asked them since another member failed to make power with uprev and according to them they said i will 100% see more hp with uprev or with ecutek. so i'm assuming this shop will be able to advance the timing enough.

Having never personally hit a limit to what UpRev will let me do with timing in the software, I would also say that. But now I am not so sure, since I am not yet able to determine why he was not able to reach more timing advance. Right now I believe that shifting around some other table settings might allow it, but I dont know that for certain yet. We will most likely find out soon enough since we just got another 370z for our own all-motor project and already have UpRev software.

ever since ecutek came out with the 2nd version everyone is saying uprev is garbage now, but i don't feel like paying another $600-700 for ecutek. i hope that they're able to do it. they claimed i'll get 20-30whp. i don't see how that can be possible, but they mainly tune gtr's and other high end cars

20-30 sounds optimistic to me. I wonder if UpRev has any intentions of adding more features to their software? I dont think its garbage, it did my Z very well for a very long time. But everything does evolve in this industry, and it might be time to add some more enhancements to hold onto their user base.

i'm with you there. i was thinking more like 10-12whp maybe.

nothing that i have heard about them adding anything or even working on it. at least for the Z.

All motor build? Gonna do a stroker kit on it?

I'm that guy and calling uprev now. I gotta get more than 28* advance! I'm going back with 93 and gen 3's so if I gain I know I'm on the right track! I gotta find where my power went! I'm making as much now as I did with no porting, no tune, 93, and smaller intakes! This sucks at the moment.

Ignition timing is obviously a critical component of horsepower. Not that it will apply as potently to an all-motor car, but let me tell you that my 370z makes over 20hp per degree of timing.

No intentions for a bottom end build for it right now.

We have plenty R&D going on with short blocks for my personal car at the moment.

Old post but a good one...

Shes ready for flex fuel via ECUTEK, but i had to wait a winter to pull the motor and fix what the drunk installers messed up.

I did the fuel system myself (with help from the CJM instructions) and im running:

-450 walbro e rated
-CJM fuel return kit with regulator and e rated filter/plumbing
-Innovate ECB-1 with ethanol sensor (plumbed into return line after the
regulator)
-Aeromotive pump speed controller (with canbus adapter for rpm signal) and
manual override switch'ed at next to the cup holder, so the pump can relax for normal driving.

The Evap system wiring was cut, spliced and utilized for ethanol signal to ECUTEK (specifically the vent control ) (and the WG solenoid control via purge valve input

Colorado has plenty of e85 stations, so its going to be a fun year :)

BTW: After hijacking the EVAP wiring, i found out the hard way that i have to cap off the plenum side of the evap metal line, and vent the canister side of the hose to atmosphere ( in the engine bay), or else I cant refuel the car without having issues getting it to start (was a bit embarassing) I suppose that I could reinstall and run the purge valve manually, but im unsure if the evap line itself is a boost leak source with or without the valve.