Help trouble shoot my problem.
 

Ok here are the basics, car is a 2012 with the 6MT and a GTM st2 SC. About a week ago it seemed like it was ever so slightly down on power and it got progressivly worse from there to the point of running really rich and barely able to hold an idle, to not running on all cylinders..... I had a friend plug in his professional code reader..

Things I have checked :
- Spark plugs have spark
- All vac lines are good
- Bov seems to be working
- Plumbing connections are all tight
- I reflashed it with a safe tune from J Tran ( seemed to help but it only fired for maybe one or two revolutions and now just cranks )
- Looked at cam sensors, they look good
- Fuel system looked good, pressured up nice and held it
- Air filter is clean
- We even tried helping it with a couple shots of carb cleaner right into the intake while cranking, nothing happened.

Codes being thrown :
- U1024
- Various wheel codes from aftermarket rims and no tpms
- I know this isn't a code, but even with engine turned off it showed that rpm was at 2800 ish.


Things I haven't been able to check yet :
- Crank sensor (can't find the damn thing)
- Spark plugs, no socket I have is thin enough walled to get them out


Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm out of ideas.

My guess would be the vdc due to the aftermarket wheels or the sparks plugs. How many miles are on those plugs? Also maybe try reflashing your ECU with Uprev again and make you sure have a solid 12v...

http://www.the370z.com/tuning/15433-code-u1024.html

Maybe try flashing it back to stock and then back to the new map? That won't solve all of the problem, but it should address the code unless something more serious is going on.

Spark Plug Socket...This is what you need

Amazon.com: Motion Pro 08-0512 14mm Spark Plug Socket: Automotive

I would also suggest a long pair of needle nose pliers (double hinged for narrow openings if you can find them) as the socket gets stuck on the plug most the time and you have to fish it out.

I know its not the wheels since I had them on before the supercharger went on and they never caused any problems. Only code they through was that the computer couldn't get a pressure reading off them, my VDC still worked...... I tried reflashing the ecu from a gtm map to a safe J Tran map and still nothing, but I suppose I can try the stock map.
As for spark plugs, they have 3500 miles on them, just like the rest of the car.
Is the hex on the plug 14mm or is it the normal 5/8. Becuase worst case, is I have a friend with a really old snap on spark plug socket ( better metals back then, thinner walls ) and if that doesn't work I can always buy a 5/8' deep impact and turn it down on a lathe.
I can try, but UpRev never even picked up the code, and car was fine all of last summer when the kit was on, it was only last week that things seem to have gone for ****. But like I said, I can reflash to a stock map no problem, that only takes a couple minutes. Just want to check a few things like crank sensor ( if I can find it ). Because before I reflashed with the J Tran map when it would try to fire it sounded like the timing was so far off that it was almost backfiring into the intake.

As the car got progressively worse, what have your AFRs looked like? Was it all gradual, or was there an event?

Until you can get those plugs out, see what the old ones look like and get new ones in and maybe a compression test, I don't think we can tell you much.

The socket I Iinked you to is definitely a 14mm

I am unsure on AFR by the time I could hook my laptop to it it was barely running at all. At idle the AFR on both banks was exactly 10.000 according to UpRev.. It seemed "gradual" but it was over the space of a week but maybe only 3 driving days with not many miles on those days... I will try to get an old plug out today. But no chance of getting new plugs for a while since no stealership nearby and online shipping is slower than molasses.

Doesn't Uprev just read the stock sensors? You need a wideband reading homie

Yep. You need a separate wideband for a build like that. The factory sensors leave a lot to be desired. While the car is down, go grab an Innovate or similar AFR gauge and install it.

I can try. But there is no aesthetically pleasing spot to put it. I have a boost and oil press A pillar pod. And I don't have the money for 3 new quages and to pay someone to be ripping the dash apart... I know everyone says have a back up money plan for when things break, but seven months unemployed kind of chews through that.

Then get some sort of multi-gauge for the a-pillar and sell whichever one it replaces. You need that gauge.

:iagree:

PLX and Zetroinix make some pretty good multi-guage options. I went with the GReddy but it's an odd size and won't fit your pillar. Not to mention I'm on backorder 8 wks for a damn pressure sender, can't imagine what the gauge wait time would be.

How was it tuned with out Afr gauge tom? Yikes