Vvel
 

For the guys who have gone built blocks and used spare long block as ur new motor how did u go about taking off and reinstalling VVEL? Should it be marked a certain way to be put back on correctly? What would be the procedure? Is it a simple just remove and reinstall? I'm building my spare longblock but might keep my heads from current motor. Would this be a problem for vvel?

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2010/EM.pdf

The procedure starts at page EM-89
Quote from the FSM "CAUTION: A high degree of precision is required for a valve(job) on the intake side. Never remove the valve related parts unless necessary."

After removing the vvl off of the heads and reinstalling you will have to take it to the Nissan dealership and have them Flash the computer to reset the timing/vvl...

I didn't have to do that.

Just make sure you don't remove the solenoid, with the four allen bolts. Just remove the whole assembly off the back of the head and you'll be fine.

When re-installing leave the two screws a bit loose on the sensor so the ecu can adjust the timing, then you can tighten them back up. (this is the sensor on the back of the VVEL housing that can rotate a bit)

Also, make sure you keep track of which cam caps go where, this was my problem. I had reinstalled a few incorrectly on the passenger bank and the assembly could not rotate correctly. It was a nightmare problem solving that. Tested everything, changed out VVEL computer control module from another Z, bought a new solenoid, tsted all the electronics before we figured out I had installed the cam caps wrong!

Thanks guys

This is as far as you need to break the head down for pressure testing at a machine shop if you want that done. You might not need to break it down this far. However, if you do, remember everything is torqued to 10lbs on the VVEl craddle and cam caps.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps27c2c5f1.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps22a785ca.jpg

This is a pic of the VVEL assembly section with the solenoid removed, dont do that, LOL! It will just make your life easier.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps56883f32.jpg

This is the VVEL assembly internally, there are two allen/star bolts that connect to the VVEL cam that will need to be removed to get the entire assembly off the back of the head.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...pscd8bf802.jpg

Cam caps, keep track! They are labled alphabetically and with numbers.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps4cbe605d.jpg

remember to clean all silicon off using whatever means you find easiest. I chose a power tool. Silicon is your friend on reassembly!

The most crucial part is the timing chain, make sure you understand the marks on the chains and cam sprockets and get this done correctly or you will hate your life. The timing chain tensors can be pushed in and held in place with a thumb tack to make dis-assembly and reassembly an ease, there are little holes on the tensors that you can slide the tacks in after you depress the tensor. There are 3 of them you can do this to. Two at the cam(exhaust & intake) sprockets Left and right. One on the center left side of the inside timing cover. Once again everything should be torques to 10lbs, but I mite need to double check that!

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps8cedb226.jpg

sandwich bags, a sharpie, lots of pictures and cleanliness will be your best friends during this process! Don't drink too much beer!

Good luck buddy!

You should never remove the "cam caps" on the vvel ladder assembly. There is a big warning in the FSM in multiple places that says never to do it. all you need to do is pull the ladder assembley with the vvel intact from the head, after unbolting the the sensor and actuator from the back of the head. leaving the screws loose on the sensor until you start the car to let the computer adjust it? how is the ecu supposed to move the sensor to the correct neutral position? There is a procedure in the fsm that uses a multimeter and the ecu to set the vvel at neutral position, then clock the sensor until it outputs the correct voltage. Also yes there is no need to remove the dc motor from the vvel actuator but it is just a dc motor so there a good chance it wont cause any harm so long as it was reassembled correctly.

I removed the cam caps and my car runs fine.... I didn't use the manual and my tuner has the top of the line scan tool that we used to check everything. We've built 3 of these motors from the ground up with no issues. This was my first time building a motor, so I ran into a few issues, which is why I'm trying to help by lending my experience doing it. As far as the cam sensor finding the neutral position, I'll have to ask JTran about it, but I know he didn't use a multimeter to do it.

I was wondering when you would chime in, I guess if it's not in the manual or says not to do it, it can't be done! Doing it > reading about it!

Bottom line is when JTran builds these motors Mr. Bergenholtz breaks everything down, testing and measuring all parts of the motor and creating a detailed spreadsheet. He likes to learn and understand how things work. I guess that comes from his 25 yrs of experience building motors. It was great having him there to help guide me and give pointers, learned a ton!

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps7756ac1b.jpg

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...ps0f3e3312.jpg

this was my understanding as well. the mechanic who works on my car used to work for nissan and has worked on many VHR motors. they never take the VVEL cam out of the ladder, and you reset the vvel sensors using a multimeter or scan tool after re-installing them.

now I'm sure that doesn't mean you cant remove the VVEL cam, but nissan does not recommend it, and really theres no reason at all to do it.

Like I said, didn't read the manual, 1st motor build, car still runs. Now he knows what not to do. Leave the vvel cam alone and if there ever comes a need to mess with it Dont drink and install cam caps.

sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note

But if you read the manual you would have avoided it in the first place. But dont get me wrong it shouldnt be followed 100% afterall it says you cant reuse or service half the motor which just isnt true.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Edit: the vvel control shaft postion sensor adjustment is on page ec-21 and the non consult3 directions are on ec-22

Agreed!

I know Tran and Bergenholtz had to have read it at some point. All I know is they said take everything apart and that's what I did. Live and learn.

sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note

I had to break down my driver side VVEL setup yesterday to remedy a small oil leak under hi boost. I have a built block and don't want one drop of oil leaking from my motor. Moving on, I helped JTran tune the VVEL position sensor, took all of 5 minutes with his scan tool or you can use cypher. He set it to the factory spec then went through the VVEL learning process, clocking the sensor at the correct recommendation, then tighten the sensor screws. #cakewalk

yup it's not hard but has to be done when you remove the sensor.

Yes!!! This is the thread I saw! Thank you so much man! I will be following this closely. Is the VVEL learn in cipher some thing that's pretty simple to find or do you have to dig for it in the software?

No problem man, I can ask my tuner, I have not done the procedure through cypher, I only held the scan tool and read out the numbers to JTran while he clocked the sensor.

can you please elaborate on the VVEL learning process?
i adjusted my bank 1 VVEL shaft sensor to factory spec and it matches the bank 2 sensor under the adjustment precondition mode

Edited sorry take that back unless you had the control shaft at the proper 5 degree angle before moving the sensor and performing the reset you are boned.

doesn't the preconditioning procedure put it in the 5 degree position?

did you change the VVEL actuator assy and/or install new cam shafts? if not the FSM states in bold letters strictly to not perform the reset sequence

yeah i know that.. every VVEL related technical document i've trawled up in my quest to learn more/cure my car has stated not to touch the sensors or actuators unless absolutely neccessary. If one part is disturbed, the entire lot is to be replaced.

I took a calculated gamble and went ahead with the adjustment procedure on bank 1 because at idle and under the adjustment precondition mode, it was out of spec by 0.001v, and also reading +0.05v higher than bank 2. Surely, if the system was indeed that sensitive that any disturbance in its life, whether accidental or intentional would mandate replacement of all parts then the bolts would be of a more tamper deterrent type, possibly even paint marked at assembly. The variances might sound very very tiny but i do believe the VVEL system is very sensitive and that 0.05v might translate into a few degrees or few fractiona of degrees of lift. Either way, if both banks are balanced then in theory the system would run even better - imo at least. I did say a final prayer before i cracked the bolts loose and held my breath. No turning back now.

I actually originally wanted to adjust both banks but when i hooked up Cipher i noticed that bank 2 was very close to spec. (0.499v actual vs 0.500v +/- 0.048v spec). So i let it be. It was quite easy to adjust but i quickly realised just how sensitive these sensors are. It didnt take much rotation to balance it with bank 2.

For anyone who is unsure about the VVEL relay and its location, in my 2011 AUDM RHD Z it is accessible by removing the plastic frame surrounding the battery hatch where there is a small box. The relay is the one as per the label on the lid. For me, that meant the relay nearest to the firewall. Both are identical, Japanese relays which is contrary to the Chinese made relays another member here found in his earlier model Z. Perhaps Nissan realised there was a fault and switched to Japanese relays in later models? I read somewhere that Nissan mislabelled the lid or the fsm but i'm not sure what model years are affected. It might have actually been the G37.. The other relay is for the cooling fans

So, in summary, i replaced no parts and removed no parts. I only backed off the bolts sufficient to allow movement of the sensor for the adjustment procedure. I performed the adjustment in a bid to cure my random loss of throttle response. The car idles perfectly and runs perfectly, with no hint of any ill effects of disturbing the sensors (both sensors were actually disconnected as i was intending on adjusting both). After throwing over $1000 in parts to try and cure the problem, i deemed the risk to be acceptable. I was well aware of what may happen but felr reassured by the several trouble-free reassembly stories other members here have shared when they removed the VVEL to upgrade cams or perform other repairs. These VVEL control shaft position sensors are similar to modern throttle position sensors fitted to cable mechanically operated throttle bodies.

I don't recommend everyone go out there and start fiddling with their VVEL sensors. Not unless you have explored all other avenues, understand the risks and have the proper equipment. It can be done with a multimeter and wire piercing probes but i imagine this would be very fiddly and require an assistant. I used Cipher and a laptop resting on the brake fluid hatch, arse up in the air while kneeling on the radiator core support. Easily accessible with no other parts requiring removal. Bolts have a 10mm head. Use a ratcheting spanner for ease. (side note: i have removed the coolant lines to both throttle bodies so there might be some hoses in the way for stock cars).

So far for me, the results are promising. SRM works better than ever. No jolts between shifts even with sloppy pedal actuation, exactly as advertised. Crisp throttle response. Perfect idle. I will report back if/when i re-encounter my issue. Thanks everyone :)

And what if I had to replace the solenoid from a broken connector?
Long story short, I had to change my block, th motor came with a broken VVEL solenoid connector, we replaced the solenoid (black top with the 4 Allen studs)and clocked it the same way it was in.

Do I need to readjust anything after?

you will know if you log the bank fuel trims. if one side has a big afr correction it could be the actuator out of position.